Fiberglassing is amazing. This is my first time creating something out of fiberglass and it took me about a month because of the learning curve. Don't think you will finish it in one weekend if its your first time.
This box cost me about $100 in material and I will also tell you all the things I learned and the mistakes I made. There are two types of Resin that you can use. Waxed and unwaxed. I used waxed because it's a little easier to work with and has a uniform mixture. The mesh I used was 1 1/2 ounce mesh, I also tried 1 ounce but 1 1/2 ounce is the only mesh that can actually be split into two 0.75 ounce pieces. This is great because two 0.75 ounce layers of fiberglass are stronger than one 1 1/2 ounce layer. Don't buy the 1litre containers, just go for the big 5litre jug because you will use at least 4 litres of it. Mesh is cheap, and depends on you how much you want to build up.
I used duct tape because the resin/fiberglass hardens on the outside, but it will still be liquid where it meets the duct tape on the inside. This will make it easier for you to remove the hardened shell and remove the duct tape. Resin stinks, so do it when you aren't planning to drive for a couple days or not much of a distance. Don't be stingy on the tape, you get resin on your carpet and its ruined. Acetone does remove some of it though.
Outline your shape with a sharpie, it doesn't have to be perfect as you can always sand/dremel the shape. This is just so you don't overdue where you will be laying the mesh down.
Apply a thin layer of just resin in your outlined area. Then, in little cut pieces, lay the mesh on top and then add more resin on top and paint it thoroughly. Don't make it messy but just enough resin so the mesh is liberally soaked.
Let it dry in the sun for a couple of hours before you apply another layer. Add at least two layers so the box will hold its shape. I left it overnight and took it out the next day.
*NOTE* Moisture and humidity are a pain in the ass when it comes to resin drying. I left the box outside thinking it will dry faster by humidity is at its highest at night and with all that humidity, resin doesn't dry at all. It's best to leave it in the garage or even inside your house, though it will stink it up. Resin dries really quickly in the sun!
After you remove the box, remove the tape from the back. It will still be wet so let it soak in the sun until it dries. Do not add layers of mesh/resin to the outside of the box. Always build on the inside. Add a few layers, at least 3 - 4 more so you have a strong sturdy box.
I used MDF board for the front which you can see in the picture, pretty straight foward design. You will need a bi-directional stretch fleece cloth. Meaning, it will stretch from left to right and then also up and down. Some fleece cloths only stretch one way.
You'll need a hot glue gun to secure the fleece onto the fiberglass. Staples don't work well, and you'll have to spend more time trying to flatten them and make them smooth.
Stretch the fleece cloth tightly over the gaps in your box. Once you're secured it with hot glue, you can cut the access away. Now you'll want to apply resin (I haven't mentioned anything about hardener but the mixing proportions should be included in your resin purchase. Use your own discretion) liberally to the entire fleece. It will soak up a lot of resin so make sure you have a lot mixed and ready.
My camera broke and I never got to take pictures of the bondo/sanding process. It's simple really. Once the fiber glass is dry, the box looks like shit. You'll need bondo or sanding putty with hardener and the plastic applicators. Do not use the metal ones, they don't flex and they suck. Apply an even amount of bondo to the front and top of the box, who cares about the back because it will be hidden. In fact, don't touch the back because it will ruin the mold and your box won't fit perfectly.
After you've bondo'd once, let it dry and harden. Sand with 100 grit sand paper by hand and smooth out all corners, sides and top. You may need to bondo a second time with a thin layer to fill in any pits or valleys. Once you're happy with with the texture of the box and the smoothness, prime it. You can use spray paint or brush paint. I used brush paint and applied a think liberal layer.
After the primer dried, i sanded thoroughly with 200 grit, then all the way to 600 to give my box a smooth touch. Paint with your favourite spray paint, I used a wheel coating gun metal.
Voila! Custom box, looks sleek and you have all your trunk space. Oh yea, I ported it as well because a 10" requires a port and is louder.
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Originally Posted by JjSwee
Man, 8.5 is pretty deep these days.
