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Thread: Headgasket Checklist + Pictures

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    Headgasket Checklist + Pictures

    11044AA610 - Gasket - Head x 2 $51.81
    11051AA070 - Gasket - Spark Plugs x 4 $6.33
    11832AA022 - Gasket - Oil Breather Covers x 2 $2.38
    13272AA082 - Gasket - Valve Cover (Left) x 1 $10.17
    13270AA082 - Gasket - Valve Cover (Right) x 1 $10.17
    13271AA051 - Screws - Valve Cover x 12 $4.00
    13293AA051 - Gasket - Valve Cover Half Moons x 4 $5.44
    806923060 - Oil Pump O-Ring 23.75x3.5 x 1 $1.36
    14035AA281 - Gasket - Intake x 2 $4.62
    44022AA020 - Gasket - Exhaust x 2 $8.21
    21200AA072 - Thermostat Assembly x 1 $14.09
    21236AA010 - Gasket - Thermostat x 1 $2.69
    806732150 - Oil Seal (Cams) 32x45x8 x 4 $6.79
    22401AA570 - Spark Plugs x 4 $14.65
    11810AA000 - PCV Valve x 1 $8.08
    13581AA050 - Gasket - Timing Cover Upper x 1 $9.60
    13594AA041 - Gasket - Timing Cover Lower x 1 $27.67
    22659AA060 - Gasket - IAC Valve x 1 $4.58
    806733030 - Front Crank Seal 33x49x8 x 1 $8.86
    21114AA051 - Gasket - Water Pump x 1 $2.54
    - Water Pump
    - Rear Main Seal
    - Oil Separator

    The prices are all in CAN dollars.

    http://youtube.com/watch?v=fqJlOOrffsY - Video of head being machined.






























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    t3h ch33se Wiscon_Mark's Avatar
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    Th3 EviL OvErLORd Reason's Avatar
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    STICKY! I like the list, BUT where is the water pump??
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reason
    STICKY! I like the list, BUT where is the water pump??
    There's no timing belt or timing belt tensioner because those were already replaced.. I was told by him (he's been working on Subaru's for 14 years) that water pumps are rarely an issue on these cars. He'll know for sure once he has everything apart if it needs replacing or not
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    I'd check the water pump and timing belt anyway - t-belt has to come off to do the heads anyway, so why not just use all new parts?

    The newer water pumps have different blade design, but that's about it. I'm sure there are some efficiency benefits.
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    +1 on the water pump.. if its needs replacing or is worn out. This is what i was told by a mechanic here when he did the front main seal on my other LGT.

    Cant wait to see the pics..if you can take a ton of pics / make a DIY type thing.. that would be awesome!
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    This is at a dealership, so they will not be pulling the moder. But for us shadetree mechanics, you should also replace the plastic oil seal behind the flywheel/flexplate with the revised aluminum one.


    Waterpumps are something that are not going go bad often, but when they do, you need to pull the Tbelt to swap it. If you can't do a Tbelt job on your own, you should have the mechanic swap the pump while he is in there.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Huffer
    I'd check the water pump and timing belt anyway - t-belt has to come off to do the heads anyway, so why not just use all new parts?

    The newer water pumps have different blade design, but that's about it. I'm sure there are some efficiency benefits.
    Timing belt was done last April There's only been 30,000km on it since it was done. I had it done at the dealership and they said then the water pump was still good.

    I'll be supervising (hehe) the whole thing and this mechanic is perfectly fine with me asking 1001 questions! I've spoken to him on and off for about a month regarding this and it's going to take place next Wednesday. I'm a little excited to see what my engine looks like.. I've never been inside an engine this deep before.. woooohoo!!
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    t3h ch33se Wiscon_Mark's Avatar
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    Preventative maintenance FTW.

    Definitely replace the water pump, timing belt, and anything else you can while you're in there.

    When I had my clutch replaced, the mechanic actually said the clutch disk had a lot of life left on it, but the pressure plate was shot, and the throwout bearing wasn't working very well either. But I had everything replaced. Why? Because down the road, if something failed, it'd be labor that would cost me a lot, not the parts, to go back in there and fix what I could've previously.

    edit: Warrior, you snuck a post in there. I don't care if the water pump was immaculate, if it goes bad, you're really SOL if you don't have 700 bucks to fork over (most of that labor). It's not a terribly expensive replacement, you should do it.
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    New head bolts...were they listed?
    98 bk?

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    Ok ok.. you win, you bastards! I'll replace the waterpump.. uhm.. head bolts?
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    t3h ch33se Wiscon_Mark's Avatar
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    Head bolts sound a little unnecessary...
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    Th3 EviL OvErLORd Reason's Avatar
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    Everyone knows if you are tearing down the engine you should replace the water pump. Regardless if it's "still good" or not. Would you rather skip it then a few months it shits the bed? Then you will be telling yourself that you should had listened to us ;-). Did you see everything I replaced on my Neon when I got it? I have a full list of parts what we did. All it needed was a crank seal. Better safe than sorry.
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    Quote Originally Posted by backpack09
    This is at a dealership, so they will not be pulling the moder. But for us shadetree mechanics, you should also replace the plastic oil seal behind the flywheel/flexplate with the revised aluminum one.
    Yea that plastic baffle plate sucks. If you ever do your clutch or rear main seal replace that plate. The aluminum plate is like $15.
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    We pulled the motor as you can see.. never did the water pump. Replaced the water pump gasket though. The quality of work this mechanic did on my motor was phenomenal!

    I watched the whole process (took 2 days due to lack of parts from some dealerships) and answered any question I had with great knowledge. This guy has become my new Subaru mechanic!

    We used about 3 cans of brake clean and made everything spotless before putting it back together.. but all in all, my engine was doing pretty good. I asked numerous times about the water pump and he said he only replaces them at 200,000km and I trust his word; he is the Subaru mechanic that has 14 years under his belt with schooling compared to us weekend mechanics.

    My bill came out to be $1100 because we replaced the rear main and oil separator. If the water pump goes, he said he'd replace it free of charge as it will take him about 30 min

    He also cleaned the crap out of the IAC valve which was something completely new to me. I've never read about it anywhere but he used throttle body cleaner and a small screw driver to remove all the crap on the plastic green piece inside. It really improved the smoothness of my idle! Very easy to do and should be done every 50,000km he said.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wiscon_Mark
    Head bolts sound a little unnecessary...
    not really, oem headbolts SHOULD be replaced any time the heads are removed. not saying it wont be fine not replacing them, but unlike head studs (ARP), they should be replaced.
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    t3h ch33se Wiscon_Mark's Avatar
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    Oh, then I must've been thinking of head studs.
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    Quote Originally Posted by warrior
    He also cleaned the crap out of the IAC valve which was something completely new to me. I've never read about it anywhere but he used throttle body cleaner and a small screw driver to remove all the crap on the plastic green piece inside. It really improved the smoothness of my idle! Very easy to do and should be done every 50,000km he said.
    more info on this? My idle is a bit lopey.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Plays_with_Toys
    Quote Originally Posted by warrior
    He also cleaned the crap out of the IAC valve which was something completely new to me. I've never read about it anywhere but he used throttle body cleaner and a small screw driver to remove all the crap on the plastic green piece inside. It really improved the smoothness of my idle! Very easy to do and should be done every 50,000km he said.
    more info on this? My idle is a bit lopey.
    Off the back of the intake is the IAC Valve.. it's got 3 screws holding it onto the intake manifold. It sits really lopsided on the intake (it doesn't line up like it should).. the gasket is off centre and everything.

    Take off the three screws and the three hoses that go to it. One large one and two small ones.. they're just vacuum hoses. The side that mounts to the intake has a rectangular hole; the gasket side. Inside that is full of carbon and there's a green valve that is covered completely. Take throttle body cleaner and a small screw driver and spray it inside while scraping the carbon off and spraying more throttle body cleaner liberally all inside. Do the same on the other side through the larger diameter hole.. basically removing any carbon. The green valve moves back and fourth, its ok to extend it fully closed to take off the carbon that you can't see.

    This is exactly what the mechanic did as I watched closely.. then proceeded to clean the gasket mounting surface with a die grinder with an emory cloth bit.. slapped it all back together and that was it.

    To make it easier for you to get it mounted back on the intake, put two of the three screws in place with the new gasket on the back. This will line the gasket up for you properly as you put it back on.
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    Yeah... I get to do this to my car this weekend.

    started to go on me enroute to KC this past weekend... it's an internal water passage so I'm getting some oil in my coolant, but not the other way oddly enough.

    SUCKS!!!

    Guess I'll put that new clutch in now

    I just went ahead and got the full engine gasket and seal kit from Subaru so I could do as much as I could while the engine is out of the car.

    Just wish I had some scratch to get some extra work done while it's apart as I have a good friend who does lots of porting work (heads, turbos, etc.) and could get some done for not much $$$. But then I'd want to do a new 3 angle valve job and machine the head to get back some of the compression the porting would take away.

    Decided to just fix it for now. Will save that kind of work for a future project for perhaps another car.

    --ramble--

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    SLi nOOb omahasubaru's Avatar
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    just to add some more. Things went well over the weekend.

    Pulled motor Friday after work. Rebuilt on Saturday, re-installed Sunday.

    I decided to clean things throughly.



    I also picked up the subaru gasket/seal kit and replaced everything I touched and even some things I didn't. Figure no time better than present. Should be a leak free/reliable motor for 100k+ more miles now.

    Also had my friend do a mild port on the combustion chambers at his shop.





    So far so good! Kind of wish I had time to have had the heads milled down a bit and perhaps to pick up some mild cams, but oh well.
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    SLi Lurker losdiosdeverde86's Avatar
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    now, by now most should know what's up with my car.

    i just had the timing belt, waterpump, thermostat changed out. now i think i need headgaskets.

    i'm either going to do it on my own, or sell the car. so, is it 100% necessary to remove the engine on a 2.2 to do the headgaskets?
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    It is not necessary to remove the engine. The only reason why my engine was removed was because i wanted to replace the plastic oil separator cover
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    SLi Lurker losdiosdeverde86's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by warrior
    It is not necessary to remove the engine. The only reason why my engine was removed was because i wanted to replace the plastic oil separator cover
    oh, word. it says in my Chilton Manual that it MAY need to be removed because of the little space in the engine bay. but that also accounts for ANY car made between 89-96 with a 2.2, not necessarily a 96 legacy.
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    Quote Originally Posted by losdiosdeverde86
    Quote Originally Posted by warrior
    It is not necessary to remove the engine. The only reason why my engine was removed was because i wanted to replace the plastic oil separator cover
    oh, word. it says in my Chilton Manual that it MAY need to be removed because of the little space in the engine bay. but that also accounts for ANY car made between 89-96 with a 2.2, not necessarily a 96 legacy.
    97LegacyGT and ooberdoob did HG's on a 98 GT without removing the engine
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    Thread dredge (the sticky URL was outdated).

    After replacing the radiator and adding fresh coolant, I noticed my car still smells a lot like coolant and seeing some wet spots under the block. I think it may be time.


    All I want for Christmas is 2 head gaskets.

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