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Thread: 50/50 split

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    50/50 split

    how to get a 50/50 split on power and not the 90/10 like its is until the tiers slip and it goes to 50/50. anyone?
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    different center diff
    AWD + Boost = Fun

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    Put the car in D3.
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    d3?
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    You can also change the voltage going to the duty c solenoid. I can't remember whether it's high or low voltage though.

    I've seen bad things happen to autos when this was done for extended periods, however.
    1996 Impreza WRX STI V2 wagon

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    3 on the selector.. will only put the car in 1 to 3 with higher shift point. and will do an even split..
    98 2.5gt
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    transmission gear selection - D3. If you limit it to D1, D2 or D3, you get a 50/50 torque split. I used this all the time in the winter when the weather was bad.

    You also don't want to do this on dry pavement all the time - it will burn out dutyC solenoid and mess up the transfer clutch packs.

    The Forester guys have a switch they wired in to make their autos 50/50 at any time, but this does still have the above repercussions.
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    ^Another reason why no more auto tranny for me
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    i dont have a auto. does this mean the MT is in diff tq split?
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    Manual is 50/50 full time. "it's what makes a Subaru, a Subaru"
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    hey bro i got this right from the wiki!

    The 4 speed automatic transmission, had a feature where the transmission could be instructed to ignore 1st gear from a standing stop to assist driving on traction limited situations, such as ice and snow. The system was activated by moving the gearshift from the "D" position down to "2nd". The car would then start in 2nd gear, and not 1st. The transmission also splits the delivered torque 50-50 between the front and rear wheels. Once the car stopped, the transmission would start back in 2nd and not 1st, until the system was upshifted to 4th.

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    t3h ub3r m3mber Sarra's Avatar
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    That's for... Driving on snow...
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    cool i didint not know that the MT is 50/50 all the time.
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    t3h ub3r m3mber Sarra's Avatar
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    It's got a very wimpy center diff that's easy to over-power and get it to slip like mad.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarra
    It's got a very wimpy center diff that's easy to over-power and get it to slip like mad.
    Is it easy to get to and change? Has anyone changed it? I know the STI branded one is too harsh and it would cause binding when turning.
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    ^ the center diff.. its not bad to change.. but i wouldnt do it unless your knowing what your doing. you just have to rip the rear of the tranny apart
    98 2.5gt
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    Quote Originally Posted by decke48
    ^ the center diff.. its not bad to change.. but i wouldnt do it unless your knowing what your doing. you just have to rip the rear of the tranny apart
    My question which confuses me (not to derail this thread)

    Ok so the BD has an open front and rear but a center diff but as a stock unit it's pretty weak.. What would upgrading the cneter diff help?? Quicker transfer?
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    might take some time off your lap time.. but probally not worth the money doing it
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    Im still looking to put a LSD in the rear diff whenever that time comes.
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    LSDs do wonders for winter traction. I'll have one in my Legacy eventually, but not till I have a 6mt.
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    I know I had a 98 Forester without one and traded in for an 03 Forester with one.. it was weak but it did help out.
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    hey guys check this out right from SUBARU

    On All-Wheel Drive (AWD) vehicles, it is extremely important that the rolling or outer circumferences of the tires be within 1/4 inch of each other. This means that you must physically measure the size of the tire. This is best done with the weight of the vehicle off the tire and at the tread centerline. Also be certain that the tires are properly inflated since this can affect your readings.

    If you need to replace just one tire, the same holds true. The measured difference in circumference between the replacement tire and the other tires on the vehicle cannot exceed 1/4 inch.

    Depending on the vehicle mileage, it might be better to replace all four tires.

    If the vehicle mileage is low and the tires have been rotated and driven at the proper inflation pressures, then you may be within the allowable 1/4-inch difference in circumference.

    If the difference between the new/replacement tire and the current tires is within this 1/4-inch maximum, then the tire should be compatible. If it is not, then other tires will need to be replaced to conform to the 1/4-inch rule.

    Exceeding this 1/4-inch difference in tire circumference can place unnecessary wear on drivetrain components, possibly causing them to wear out prematurely.

    If your vehicle is AWD (All-Wheel Drive) with an automatic transmission and the temporary spare tire has been installed, put a spare fuse (15 amp) inside the FWD (Front-Wheel Drive) fuse holder (refer to your owner's manual for location). Confirm that the Front-Wheel Drive (FWD) warning light comes on before you drive the car. Installation of this fuse deactivates AWD to prevent possible damage to the drivetrain components that can result due to the use of the smaller temporary spare tire. After re-installing the conventional tire, remove the fuse from the FWD fuse holder to restore AWD operation.

  23. #23
    SLi Resident 99gtlimited's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 02legacygt

    If your vehicle is AWD (All-Wheel Drive) with an automatic transmission and the temporary spare tire has been installed, put a spare fuse (15 amp) inside the FWD (Front-Wheel Drive) fuse holder (refer to your owner's manual for location). Confirm that the Front-Wheel Drive (FWD) warning light comes on before you drive the car. Installation of this fuse deactivates AWD to prevent possible damage to the drivetrain components that can result due to the use of the smaller temporary spare tire. After re-installing the conventional tire, remove the fuse from the FWD fuse holder to restore AWD operation.
    so if your car is a 5MT with AWD and you have to put the spare on you can't do anything like this right? since it's 50-50 split? or can you switch it to FWD also??
    Justin W.
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    There is no FWD fuse for the manual transmission cars.

    if you get a blowout, put the spare on the back wheel.
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  25. #25
    SLi Resident 99gtlimited's Avatar
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    ok, and if the front one goes out you have to put you spare on the back first then switch out the front with the still good back wheel from that side?
    Justin W.
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  26. #26
    Th3 Asshol3 Airgne's Avatar
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    yes or just have a full size spare like me
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    Perhaps when it comes time to purchase some shoes for your car, one might be persuaded to buy 5 instead of 4 . Easily the best way to have a spare that won't somehow ruin everything. That, and if you've ever driven cross country, I bet you've noticed those spots of highway where there isn't another town for 300+ miles. I would never trust the OEM spare to get me 300 miles on a passenger car, but then again I'm used to doing my long travel on a 2500 chassis '92 Suburban with the largest gasoline engine that was available at the time (which has since been sold along with a '99 Oldsmobile Alero in favor of an '06 Honda Odyssey with a DVD player), so... meh?
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    My opinion, don't mess with the solenoids lol thats why my AWD is broken, I'm now stuck with lame ass front wheel drive... getting the AWD repaired when i gather 1500$ :S
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