Few questions on t-belt change...

[MC2]

Sorry i know these are asked a lot but couldn't really find a definitive answer.
I posted this over on Nasioc but it's a little quiet over there so maybe some better luck here.

I just picked up a 97L today and it's going to need a timing belt change. Also is leaking some oil which isn't coming from the front... almost looks like the rear main seal.. . But in any case i plan to do the timing belt and front seals. Here's what i plan to replace:

Tbelt
Tensionser
idler
idler pulley
water pump
tstat and gasket


Front crank seal
Front cam seals
oil pump gaskets (need seal kit)

Does anybody happen to have the part numbers to the last 3 items? the seals and seal kit? Or can just tell me which number they are on the diagram?




Anything else i'm missing? Any other seals?? Not gonna do the valve cover gaskets if they aren't leaking.

Also, a few questions. The car is a 4EAT.

- Whats the trick to prevent the crank and cam sprocket from turning when trying to break the bolt, or when tightening it?

- How do i prevent the cams from turning when going to install the belt? Any risk of the small movements causing the valves to come into contact?

- Any special tools required (seal puller, etc) to pull or install the new seals? Are the seals gonna be difficult?

- Do i need to open up the oil pump to change the seals?

- This is my first timing belt job, i have the service manual so hope i don't screw it up.

[Grafton]

you'll need to lock the flywheel in place from the access plug under the torque box to break loose the crank pulley/crank sprocket bolt

on the 2.2 its a non interference motor so no worries just make sure the timing is alined when everything goes back together i belevie if you get a Subaru Timing belt it has markings on it for easier re-installation

[birukun]

Front crank seal - looks like #39
Front cam seals - looks like #16

4EAT and crank pulley
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpos ... stcount=40

For the cam sprocket, I think a strap wrench will work.

I did not use any special tools on mine, except the 150lbs torque wrench for the crank pulley. A white paint pen was good for marking the sprockets and crank before pulling it all apart.

I did not change the oil seal, but did check to make sure the screws on the back were tight.

Pull the radiator and change those hoses to give your self lots of room to work and reduce the risk of radiator damage.

[MC2]

Thanks. Actually in 97 they went to an interference motor, so it's a bit of concern to me. I think i should be okay though.

That link is great, the photos are a big help. Thanks!

You have to separate the pump from the block to check the screws right?

[1-3-2-4]

I have found the best way so far (correct me if I'm wrong) if the engine is a DOHC then it's a interference motor if it's a SOHC then it's not so far I haven't been wrong...

[MC2]

I have found the best way so far (correct me if I'm wrong) if the engine is a DOHC then it's a interference motor if it's a SOHC then it's not so far I haven't been wrong...

Well all of the EJ22s are SOHC, but i'm pretty sure in 97 they went to an interference motor for better fuel consumption and slight bump in power.


Does anybody know the part number for the tensioner adjuster? I only see the idler pulley and idler gear on the diagram.

Thanks!

[birukun]

You may try some site like 1stsubaruparts.com and see if it shows the correct tensioner for your year. There are 2 different ones IIRC.