So you've bought youself a JDM twin turbo eh?

[Chuckgf8]

Amayama.com use your chassis number to get the correct parts

[bmart]

Great info. Thanks!

I just did the hose 10 mod the other day on my B rev BH5 with no change from my seat of the pants. I see that you say don't do it. Guess I should undo it?

Also planned to do the .8mm hose 1 mod. Is that also verboten?

Thank you!

[Jerryd83]

Hey Reuben I have a 97 Legacy with a EJ 20R TT and as I was driving home the other day it started acting like it was missing and as I slightly pressed on the throttle it would clear up but but by the time I got home it was barely pulling itself. I've changed the plugs, coils, cleaned the throttle body, new fresh tank of 93 octane, and cleaned the MAF but nothing is fixing it. I've also used your diagrams and checked all my vacuum lines but found no problems. There's also no check engine light on. Anything you can do to help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Jared

[Reuben]

When o2 sensors fail, often they wont throw a code, and will present as unresponsive/lack of power until you floor it, then the car will run mint. So just light throttle issues.

So that was my first thought, but you describe it as developing rapidly, and barely running when ya got home, which suggests to me it’s probably mechanical in nature. Do a compression check maybe, and a smoke check of your intake/listen out for that tell-tale hiss of an intake leak

[Jerryd83]

When o2 sensors fail, often they wont throw a code, and will present as unresponsive/lack of power until you floor it, then the car will run mint. So just light throttle issues.

So that was my first thought, but you describe it as developing rapidly, and barely running when ya got home, which suggests to me it’s probably mechanical in nature. Do a compression check maybe, and a smoke check of your intake/listen out for that tell-tale hiss of an intake leak

Awesome thanks for your help! I'll give that a try.

[Reuben]

Hehe, google seems to be indexing this thread good. I just got featured by MSN lol

https://www.msn.com/en-nz/news/other...ss/ar-AA1I1SYp

[jeb.]

Hehe, google seems to be indexing this thread good. I just got featured by MSN lol

https://www.msn.com/en-nz/news/other...ss/ar-AA1I1SYp

It's been my bible since I picked up my BH5. I just tuned it with a 93 octane base map from Lambda. Whiteline bump steer kit and rear control arms next.

[jeb.]

Hehe, google seems to be indexing this thread good. I just got featured by MSN lol

https://www.msn.com/en-nz/news/other...ss/ar-AA1I1SYp

Reuben are you still active here?

I’m looking for a recommendation for a replacement turbo inlet pipe and a fuel pump. My GTB is becoming a bit hard to start and in thinking it’s the fuel pump. Also the inlet pipe is a bit mangled.

Last thing is a catch can or air oil separator. I have oil seeping from my intercooler and think this would help.

Thanks!

[Reuben]

Sure am.

Fuel pump, easy, DW250. Done.

Inlet pipe, ya stuffed. You may still be able to the silicone ones from china, but they are designed for Rev-D BH, with the larger turbo inlet, so it requires getting some silicone the size of your turbo inlets, then basically use that to double up and adapt the BH pipe. You will also lose the IACV hose if fitting to BG, which will require a custom solution (remember IACV air must be metered with stock ECU’s). But I think those silicone intakes might no longer be available.

You might need to get creative. Fab work time.

Hard to start could be many things. The MAF sensor is normally where i start. If BH, easy, just grab off partsouq/amayama. If a BG purple or orange sticker… maybe consider buying a link ECU.

[jeb.]

Thanks for the info!

This isnthe inlet pipe I had in mind:


I'll pick up a DW250 this week. The MAF I'll get from Amayama.

I'm not going to be able to convert to single turbo since I'm in the US without donor vehicles available sadly. For reference I have a REV A 1998 Auto.

[Reuben]

Oh sweet! Good they still make those intakes. That will fit, but you will need to do the trick with the turbo inlets as they well be a smaller diameter. Easy done.

Edit: did i see with this listing you can choose inlet size!? Neat! BH A-rev will be the smaller size.

And be thankful you have the BH MAF, they are cheap as fuck compared to the BG ones, before theBG ones were discontinued that is. Such is life.

Goes without saying if you dont know the age of your plugs, do them too. You must use Iridium or platinum. The cars complain greatly if you use standard nickels, or “copper” as the plebs say. PFR6G, PFR6B, or BKR6EIX are all valid usable plugs. Do not use -11 suffix versions of those numbers, thats the larger non turbo gap. Do not use 7 heat range, stick to the 6’s.

[Fuga350GT]

I found a YT'er that posts the repairs/maintenance of her two BH's - it appears maybe she has a BH GT VDC(version maybe?) and then also a nice blue S edition. An older master mechanic-son that does videos apparently with his younger female protege, said the BP's O2 sensors can be used as direct replacements on the EJ206/8 motors. And went on to install it and it apparently worked fine. Not sure I've seen that mentioned anywhere before, but then again just getting my feet wet with this car/engine, specifically a EJ206 with about 122k KM - I recently imported a '00 etune. The nav system and some body work is a little worse for wear, but mechanically so far so good. drove the vehicle home from the port - super icey cold AC. It appears to have likely been a pretty close to fully loaded etune version back in the day, has a '001' Fujitsubo exhaust ....even with a functioning cargo fan in the rear. A good amount of service records, I even confirmed they replaced the gauge cluster via a recall with a work order.

Two quick questions hopefully:

I am updating the tune with ProjectLambda for our crappy 91 octane here, I was also considering replacing the ignition coils with plugs, should I only be looking at OEM for these replacements you think?

Also, it appears the timing belt was changed at about 50-60k KM's but that was also back in like in 2007/2008, so seems like age wise it was a while ago. Should I be considering getting that done as well?

[Reuben]

Regarding o2, if this is true, it is only true of Rev-D’s. Remember, engine codes mean nothing on their own, you need context such as year, model, etc, to make any usable sense of them. For example, turbos, triggering, compression, sensors, and injectors all change on the EJ206/208 through the years they were built.

Rev-D is in reference to the applied model code of the car, it refers to the 4th digit of the applied model, which implies model year, (not build date, but specifically model year). So Rev-D’s are MY2002 and MY2003. Another way to think of it is Rev-a/b/c are same generation as v5/6 GC, rev-d is same generation as GD

A note on e-tunes. This just means they are a long gearing car. All Rev-D’s are E-tune as well, prior rev’s it was separate trim level.

And how do you mean by replacing coils with plugs? BH/BE’s already run what americans call “wrx coils”, they are a good and adequate coil for 99% of builds. They are not known for failing like pre 96 coils are. Plugs, you must stick with platinum/iridium/rutherfordium plugs. As mentioned above.

Belt wise, yeah pushing on 20 years there, def change. Im ok with ignoring the 10 year limit, up to a point. 20 years is pass that point

[Fuga350GT]

Regarding o2, if this is true, it is only true of Rev-D’s. Remember, engine codes mean nothing on their own, you need context such as year, model, etc, to make any usable sense of them. For example, turbos, triggering, compression, sensors, and injectors all change on the EJ206/208 through the years they were built.

Rev-D is in reference to the applied model code of the car, it refers to the 4th digit of the applied model, which implies model year, (not build date, but specifically model year). So Rev-D’s are MY2002 and MY2003. Another way to think of it is Rev-a/b/c are same generation as v5/6 GC, rev-d is same generation as GD

Ahh right! Has to be RevD based on model year. I gotta keep that in mind.

Does that mean JDM Rev D's are true OBDII ?? Or is something slightly different?
The RevD appear to be tunable through SSM and more or less freeware/shareware out there.

Do you know of any options out there like that to tune the Rev A - C's ECU's?

And if I understand they are similar to OBDI but not exactly the same?? But not sure of that.

[Reuben]

All JDM BE/BH’s are OBD-II, but you are right, they are different to international. The early A/B/C is what youll see called “J-OBD”, and regular scan tools will not be able to communicate, or only get codes and nothing else. D’s though are closer to worldwide OBD-II and should have more universal data. But you will still get better results with a J-OBD scanner.

If you want a scan tool, get a launch off ali express, launch have an official store on there, the CRP129 is a great tool for these J-OBD JDM cars.

Tuning wise, all BE/BH TT’s are tunable, but once more, A/B/C cars are trickier. I can not help here. There are guys in NZ that tune them, but they guard their secrets. You’d need to find what tool they use, and what ecu definitions they are using. Be aware there can be like 10 different definitions for a given model year based of trim, trans etc etc.

The Rev D cars are kin with the Version 7 bug eye GD, so its much more straightforward. But still beyond what i have ever done. I work for Link so obv my recommendation is gonna be get a link!

[jeb.]

Reuben,

Couple more questions:

Any recommendations on an oil catch can setup for the EJ206? I have oil pooling and dripping out and causing some smoke.

I want to do all the work at the same time when I get to installing the silicone inlet.

Also, how can I buy you a cup of coffee or a brew?

[Reuben]

Catch can setup, you can use any single turbo setup made for WRX, so long as they aren’t designed to sit where the primary sits :’D Well, I say that but I mean earlier WRX, with the single crank case breather.

The PCV system is essentially the same, with the PCV valve teeing into the crank case breather, and the rocker breathers being separate. I recommend the twin catch setups, where the separation of the rocker breathers is maintained.

Essentially ya just want crank case to catch, back to stock location and teed to pre tubo and PCV, and rocker covers to catch, and then back to pre turb. Im not totally a fan of block to catch to atmosphere, but it does make for tidier installs.

And if you ever make ya way to NZ, ya can buy me a beer in person

[nuclearDEMIZE]

Hey Ruben, I'm wondering if you can help me diagnose an issue I'm having. I imported a 2000 RSK from Japan with 28k km on it. It idles really rough and when I'm accelerating its very surgery/jerky. I did a fuel pressure test on it and without it running it's about 40 psi. While running it drops to 30 something but I'm doesn't really move even when the engine is idling really rough. I bought a smoke machine to test for vacuum leaks and nothing obvious.

I installed a boost gauge and I get up to about 9 psi max on both turbos. Also if I'm cruising in 3/4/5 or any gear but those are cruising gears the car runs really smooth with no boost. Once the Guage goes to about 3+ psi I can feel the motor start running really rough. Also if I just stomp it out and try to run the gear out it doesn't really have enough to push to red, at least I don't dare to hold it. Usually it stays running while idling but occasionally it dies. It typically starts right back up. I've noticed that if I keep the boost at about zero PSI, the car runs smooth

[Reuben]

Very interesting. Have you checked that the fuel pressure regulator has its vacuum hose in good shape? Maybe check the fuel tank is clean and not rusted out. With that low mileage at this age, its likely its done some long stints without running.

I would maybe consider getting a diagnostic run with a wideband shoved in the back like they use on dyno’s, to see if you’re going lean or rich. Maybe talk to your local tuner rather than local mechanic.

Other things to check, i know its only got low k’s, but just in case any muppet has put large gap standard/copper plugs in it. They must run PFR6G or PFR6B or BKR6EIX plugs. They should be gapped between 0.7 and 0.8mm. Though ignition issues normally present like cuts, they arent a smooth lack of power.

I would also recommend just getting a brand new genuine MAF sensor. Though in this example im not as convinced it has anything to do with your issues like I normally am (i’d say MAF is the most common failure on these cars). I would leave that till after you’ve exhausted the other options.

By the sounds of it, my guess is fuelling over anything like boost control or TT solenoid operation.

I’ll say it’s not related to o2, as o2 only affects cruise, not under boost, which is the opposite of where you issues are.

What a fun one! Lucky you. If you find rust in the tank, you’ll have to pull your injectors.

[nuclearDEMIZE]

So the first thing I tried was to replace the MAF sensor. I made a post on reddit and someone mentioned their car was doing something similar and it was the fuel pressure reg so I bought a new one of those while I was in Japan buuuuut I got pretty deep into it and couldn't get it out without pulling the manifold. I think the hoses looked good going to it. I should look at the fuel filter and see what it looks like.

Unfortunately I live on Guam and dont have access to a reputable tuner. I'll double check the spark plugs and gaps, that's a good idea. It definitely feels like its cutting out. Like it will jerk surge pretty hard sometimes.

No CEL and I bought a specific reader for JDM cars to see if there was anything and it was clean.

My original post was from mobile so now I can be a bit more specific. Occasionally and very rarely the car runs okay. Like it feels like it will make 80-85% power and when I'm shifting from 2-3 it will pull decently (when it does I can kind of hear the intake) Most of the time it's idling very rough. Then when I put it in first it will sometimes do okay, seems to do better if its a bit cooler although Guam is always warmish. Anyway, 1st will be jerky and surgy, so will 2nd, third is okay but really if I keep the boost right at 0-3 psi is where it runs the smoothest. And honestly its really smooth here. The same with 4/5, I can literally feel the exact point on the pedal where the engine feels really rough, like it feels like its not firing on all cylinders but IDK. Sometimes in like 2 or 3 if its lower RPM and I giver her the beans (floor it) it will be shaky and lagging and once it awhile I can hear it back fire. I run 91 octane (US). It will usually stay running albeit very rough but occasionally it will die, it always starts relatively easy when that happens.

I really appreciate you taking the time to give some good troubleshooting options.

[Reuben]

Yeah these cars often dont pull CEL. Very old school OBD-1 style ECU’s that only spit codes when something is a dead short, or open circuit, with very few codes for misbehaving but functional sensors.So disgnostics often take an old school approach to figure out.

Having replaced the MAF is good, its worth while, removes all doubt about it being the cause. We can now look at more exotic failure modes these cars suffer.

One of my favourites i’ve seen at least 5 times, which does present symptoms like what you’ve said, but is mist notable at idle, is the alternator. Whip the belt off and start the car, you’ll note and instant and complete fix if this is the problem. The fault is this particularly generation of alternator on these cars can fail in a way that spews out EMF. The crank and cam angle sensor wiring pics up the interference and it makes the signal to the ECU rough as guts (they are reluctor style so very vulnerable to electrical noise). The ECU will misinterpret the signals and ya injection and spark events can go all over the place.

Other things you csn insoect is the TPS voltages, see the discussion above.its very explicit how you must set the voltage, it’s impossible to set by feel, so if anyone has touched the semsor its possible its off. If your scan tool can read live data from the car this is trivial, if not, its s multimeter job.

And lastly, if the manifold has been off, yes its possible theres vac leaks etc. But you said you smoked it, so yeah, maybe not that.

Oh, and yes i have seen failed fuel pressure regulators. I would continue with this job and replace it. Sorry to hear its a manifold off job. Refer to my videos on my GT project for tips on stuff like that. Dunno if i pulled the mani on that actually? Hmm. But yes, you must be exceptionally delecate with the PCV into the pre turbo inlet pipe. The trick is to sacrifice the F-pipe tee piece and replace it with new.

[nuclearDEMIZE]

Yeah unfortunately nothing I have will show real-time data. I'll try some of those easier solutions first and just keep chasing the gremlin. I really appreciate you taking the time to troubleshoot and write all that out. If I end up finding out what it is I'll post an update.

[Reuben]

Launch brother.
CRP129

Their official store is on ali express. They have 0 problems reading live data on what they call “JOBD”

[Les.S]

Hey Reuben thanks all the info! I got myself a bg5a a few months ago and code 66 was doin my head in. Was checking the solenoids in the spare bbod and noticed that hose 5 was in the top bank and then saw 2 was down lower. Checked the one in the car and it was exactly the same. Used your diagram and got all of the hoses sorted and no more code 66.

[Reuben]

Results! I’ll have to look at the diagram and figure out what that would have been causing for you.

Side note, I recently found, as in like 2 weeks ago, that there’s some oddities with A-rev. My JDM service manuals from 1993 show a different vac layout in the BBoD to what i’ve published. But I’ve only ever seen what I’ve published in the wild. Turns out some of the photos in the manual are from a pre-production car (makes sense). My guess was the vac layout in the book is pre-production, and didn’t get updated even though the part did! But it is possible some early early production cars, or maybe 93’s in general had the BBoD thats in the manual.

I’ll have to look at it again and document the difference for you fellas! I just remember it not being an inconsequential difference (vacuun lines are tricky alright lol)

[Fuga350GT]

Oh sweet! Good they still make those intakes. That will fit, but you will need to do the trick with the turbo inlets as they well be a smaller diameter. Easy done.

Edit: did i see with this listing you can choose inlet size!? Neat! BH A-rev will be the smaller size.

And be thankful you have the BH MAF, they are cheap as fuck compared to the BG ones, before theBG ones were discontinued that is. Such is life.

Goes without saying if you dont know the age of your plugs, do them too. You must use Iridium or platinum. The cars complain greatly if you use standard nickels, or “copper” as the plebs say. PFR6G, PFR6B, or BKR6EIX are all valid usable plugs. Do not use -11 suffix versions of those numbers, thats the larger non turbo gap. Do not use 7 heat range, stick to the 6’s.

For some of these aftermarket silicon turbo air intakes - I see two different sizes mentioned, a 50mm/50mm and a 46mm/63mm measurements - which go to which versions of the EJ206/8's? I'm looking for the Rev C the vf32/vf33

And I see some of these listed on alibaba and ebay - doesn't appear NOS OEM versions are still available elsewhere - does that seem to be the case?

[Reuben]

The genuine part has been NLA for quite some time.

I believe the Rev-D was the one with the larger secondary than primary, so my GUESS is the 46/63 is for rev D, and the 50/50 is for all other BE/BH models.

[Fuga350GT]

Thanks for the info!

This isnthe inlet pipe I had in mind:


I'll pick up a DW250 this week. The MAF I'll get from Amayama.

I'm not going to be able to convert to single turbo since I'm in the US without donor vehicles available sadly. For reference I have a REV A 1998 Auto.

@jeb. which seller did you pick this up from? Thoughts so far?

The genuine part has been NLA for quite some time.

I believe the Rev-D was the one with the larger secondary than primary, so my GUESS is the 46/63 is for rev D, and the 50/50 is for all other BE/BH models.

Copy, that seems right: I get part No's as 14462AA201 For Rev A - Rev C & 14462AA272 for Rev D when I search by chassis numbers. Have we heard of anyone else on the forums purchasing and using these chinese silicon versions with results?


Also, any good/recommended type of lines suggested for the replacing the vacuum lines in the BBOD and connecting throughout the motor?

[Tlocken]

I got a 2000 GT-B E-Tune and I’m having a hell of a time getting finding new down pipes for it any suggestions? I've found some at Scoobyworld but i'm looking at almost $914.75 usd before shipping which is a bit steep