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Thread: Third Gen Black Faced Meter (BFM) Information - 2015-01-09

  1. #241
    Administrator rkrenicki's Avatar
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    Re: Japanese Black Faced Meter (BFM) Information - Updated!

    If the fuel sender line shorts to ground, it will show as an empty tank. This pin is A3 on non-BFM cars, A17 if you have a BFM.

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    Re: Japanese Black Faced Meter (BFM) Information - Updated!

    I bought a function generator to test speedometers and tachometers going forward. This will help me with future EEPROM experiments. I noted down quick and dirty scales, which I will list below.


    DANGER TO MANIFOLD!



    Code:
    Tachometer  14V Square Wave
    -----------------------------
    H4 33.3Hz = 1000rpm,   100Hz = 3000rpm
    H6 50.0Hz = 1000rpm,   150Hz = 3000rpm
    Code:
    Speedometer  14V Square Wave
    ------------------------------
    35Hz  =  50km/h =  31MPH
    55Hz  =  78km/h =  50MPH
    70Hz  = 100km/h =  63MPH
    110Hz = 157km/h = 100MPH
    126Hz = 180km/h = 114MPH
    154Hz = 220km/h = 140MPH

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    Re: Japanese Black Faced Meter (BFM) Information - Updated!

    This is for my future reference, as the website that I originally pulled this from keeps going down.

     

    The mileage is encoded in two hexadecimal octets. The two octets have an inverted checksum.
    These four octets are duplicated four times per line, for a total of eight copies.

    Each digit is a multiplier.
    The first digit is a 65,536 multiplier.
    The second digit is a 4,096 multiplier.
    The third digit is a 256 multiplier.
    I haven’t quite figured out the fourth digit, it appears to loop based on an extra multiplier.

    So far I can’t figure out how to get even numbers on the odometer. If others would like to post up their mileage, let’s see if we can figure out exactly how to encode the values.

    I haven't figured out the details, but the following table appears to work well enough:
    Code:
    0 = 15
    1 = 95
    2 = 223
    3 = 143
    4 = 159
    5 = 207
    6 = 79
    7 = 31
    8 = 191
    9 = 239
    A = 111
    B = 63
    C = 47
    D = 127
    E = 255
    F = 175
    For ease, the checksums can be found using this table:
    Code:
    0 - F
    1 - E
    2 - D
    3 - C
    4 - B
    5 - A
    6 - 9
    7 - 8
    8 - 7
    9 - 6
    A - 5
    B - 4
    C - 3
    D - 2
    E - 1
    F - 0

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    Re: Third Gen Black Faced Meter (BFM) Information - 2015-01-

    After some intensive research and some questions over on the UKlegacy forums, I have determined that the ONLY BFM that counts in Miles and has an MPH scale is the one that came in the UK market 2003 Legacy Outback H6. No other vehicle in that market had a BFM on it.

    That makes these clusters (85015AE110, and 85015AE111) quite desirable here, but the tachometer would only be correct for an H6 car without modification. I will be testing some EEPROM modifications on the spare unit that I have here to see if I can make an accurate H4 MPH BFM.

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    Re: Japanese Black Faced Meter (BFM) Information - Updated!

    Quote Originally Posted by zaho_baho
    Hi,there.
    Give us more detailed information.
    Describe when fluctuates up and down is that mean from min to max or from 30% (for eg.) to min or max.Here are schemas for 2000 and 2001+ years:




    Check the connections and the sensors at fuel tank(under rear seats).If the tnahk is full then resistence should be 0 ohm and empty arround 200ohm(not shure).I think you have bad ground.
    Good luck, komsu.
    I will provide complete control, Very Thanks Komsu
    Legacy BE5 2.0 GL

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    Administrator rkrenicki's Avatar
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    I was able to get my hands on an original halo bulb kit. There are 8 bulbs in total. The Subaru part number is 85091AE000.


    6 of the bulbs are the larger 14V3WL made by Toshiba. These have a blue base with a yellow paint mark.


    The other 2 are the smaller Type 80 bulb, also made by Toshiba. These have a black base with a blue paint mark.


    Toshibas part number for the larger bare bulb is A7824. It is a 6.5mm-T2 W2.2x5.2D wedge rated for 214mA @14V, with 15 lumens output and a 5000 hour life. Reference "61 431"
    Toshibas part number for the smaller bare bulb is A7429. It is a 5.0mm-T1.5 W2x4.6D wedge rated for 140mA @14V, with 8 lumens output and a 5000 hour life. Reference "80"

    The type 80 bulb is physically the same as a Type 74, except that its operational life is 5 times longer. (5000hrs vs 1000hrs)

    I am trying to find a US source for these bulbs, and I will update this once I find them.

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    Wyprowadzenia 85015AE100?

    pinout 85015AE100 cluster?

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    Administrator rkrenicki's Avatar
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    @tom_ice I have never encountered a 85015AE100. What did it come out of? I would like to see a picture of this front of it as well so that I can add its details to my master list of clusters.

    Since it is an 85015 series cluster, it "should" be D type.

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    Cool 85015ae100

    I have 85012AE230 cluster in the car Subaru Legacy III BE / BH Wagon H4 2.5 l SOHC Air suspension ,VDC, 4EAT LHD, I want to mount cluster 85015AE100
    Attached Images Attached Images    
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    Last edited by tom_ice; 03-08-2015 at 10:27 AM.

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    Can you also take a picture of the back? I think that is the LHD version of the 85015AE090, but the LHD clusters have different wiring.

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    pins A30,B18,C16
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    Last edited by tom_ice; 03-08-2015 at 10:32 AM.

  12. #252
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    Yes, that is LHD, so I will need some time to work up a pinout listing for you.

    It is worth noting that since you have an H4 car and that is an H6 cluster, that the tachometer reading will be incorrect in your car. Unfortunately, there is no easy way around that, but all other functions should work correctly.

  13. #253
    Administrator rkrenicki's Avatar
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    I have the service manual here, and I am making up a pinout chart for you. I will also double check the LHD non-BFM car, and make up a chart for that model as well.

    I should have it filled in tonight, and I will clean it up and post it here tomorrow.

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    SLi nOOb ecoflame's Avatar
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    This is a awesome thread of information! I just acquired a BFM (85015AE010) with the full harness. I have a couple questions regarding the install.

    Is it worth the hassle to swap over the whole harness, or should I just repin the connectors?

    Also the same person sold be the HID lights and the leveler switch so would swapping harnesses make the install of the leveler easier than with out?

    I have a '03 BE MT and the BFM is from an auto, what's the best method to cover up the PRD123 since I won't be using it?

    And as for the Kilometeres to miles conversion the seller had said it already had the nessacry adapter for conversion but after inspecting the harness and reading this thread I don't think it has one. But I'm not a 100% sure on what I'm looking for.

    Any help you'd be willing to provide would be greatly appreciated.
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    That dash harness will *NOT* be plug and play into your car, even if you rotated all of the connectors. The JDM harness is just far too different from any US car.

    Since it is an 010 cluster, it has a 14 pin i12/C connector which is the same as your US car. I would recommend just repinning your US harness for it. A couple of wires will need to be extended, and you will need to split a power wire and a ground wire, but all in all it is fairly straight forward.

    The UK car probably did have an adapter (Required to pass SVA there), but they are generally either on the TCU or near the ECU. Sometimes they are installed near the cluster, but not often. Without looking at your dash harness, I couldnt say for sure.

    I would suggest putting black electrical tape over the PRND321. If you take the cluster apart and remove the mid-plate, put the tape over the number and reassemble, it would look pretty stock.

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    SLi nOOb Alphius's Avatar
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    I happened to read this thread today and I know of a fix for the H4 vs. H6 tach reading.
    It's not as simple and clean as a potential programming change on the cluster, but it should still work.
    I'm curious if anyone has tried something like this before? It should be possible to build your own signal interface with a microcontroller as well.

    http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...127/prd127.htm

    Again, similar to a kph/mph speedo change.

    http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...roduct_id=126/
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    Yes, that would work, but it is very expensive for what it is. You might as well buy the correct cluster to start.

    I can change any cluster to 4 or 6 cylinder in the firmware for free, but reprogramming is not something everyone can do.

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    SLi nOOb Alphius's Avatar
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    It is pretty expensive, but it is an option I hadn't seen mentioned for somebody who doesn't have the programming equipment or expertise and mistakenly bought the wrong cluster.
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    Administrator rkrenicki's Avatar
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    The kmh/MPH adaptation cannot be done in firmware (yet?), as the scales are different between the UK H6 cluster and all of the JDM ones... but I am still working on that.

    Both Yamazaki and I personally use the SGI-5 adapter to compensate for legacy sized tires. They are great adapters.

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    SLi nOOb ecoflame's Avatar
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    I was looking over the harness yesterday and came to the conclusion it probably wouldn't fit. Earlier in this thread (a couple years ago) you spoke of making multiple adapter boards for the clusters. You wouldn't happen to still have one would you? Also for the odometer I don't have the necessary equipment to convert to my actual miles. Is there a way I could pull the chip and send it to you for adjustment? Or maybe pull the one from my stock cluster and install it?

    If you would rather me PM you I can, so not to clutter up your thread.
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  21. #261
    Administrator rkrenicki's Avatar
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    Either here or PM is fine, or even on facebook message is okay with me.

    The chip is soldered to the board; if you can safely remove it, I am willing to reprogram it for you. Luckily, you have the easier of the two chips to remove. Your US cluster EEPROM will not work in a BFM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Yamazaki View Post
    From what I have, 080 is for the 2.5L, not an H6....

    I'll double check your list with what I have and make corrections as I see them. Unfortunately, I have stuff by model code, not trim or description. But I know that a BH9 is 2.5L and that's what got the 080.

    Just a quick correction, the 080 is a H6 cluster. I have one of these clusters and it came from Japan from a BH9 Lancaster 6.

  23. #263
    Administrator rkrenicki's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Staxta View Post
    Just a quick correction, the 080 is a H6 cluster. I have one of these clusters and it came from Japan from a BH9 Lancaster 6.
    Can you send me/post some pictures of the front and back of that cluster? I have only seen one 080 on YJ, and it had no pictures or vehicle data on it... that was also well over a year ago now. The 080 is a gaping hole in my master list of clusters for a while now. Then again, I have not done any cluster research in a while either.


    EDIT: Nevermind, I found one on YJ right now with pictures. Says it came from a BEED4PE (An RS30) which makes it a 6 cylinder for sure. http://page18.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/j...ion/w119486033 I do not know what the difference is between the 080 and 090.. they seem to have identical features..

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    SLi nOOb ecoflame's Avatar
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    Do you have a picture where the EEPROM is on the BFM? I don't trust my self to pull it so I'll take it to a friend's computer shop and see if he'll be willing to unsolder it from the board.
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    Administrator rkrenicki's Avatar
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    I dont, and I do not have an A~C cluster anymore to take a picture... However, it is the chip on the right side of this picture. It is the only one shaped like this one. It is about 1/4" square.

  26. #266
    Administrator rkrenicki's Avatar
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    So, while doing some more research on clusters, I stumbled across a number of Russian websites that have taken the information this thread and localized it to Russian.

    I like the part on this page that "most americans" use my circuit board based adapter: https://www.drive2.ru/l/5160583/
    Another Drive2 page: https://www.drive.net/l/4108954/
    There is a very big thread here, with a few bits of mine peppered around: http://forums.drom.ru/subaru/t1151100253.html

  27. #267
    I have a 09 legacy will a type c with the digital read out work in my car and how do I find one?

  28. #268
    Administrator rkrenicki's Avatar
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    The BFMs covered here are only for the 3rd gen cars (2000-2004). There have been a few people who have made them work on some 2nd gen (1995-1999) but it is not easy.

    The 4th gen (2005-2009) uses CANBUS for a lot of its cluster data, so you would need another 4th gen cluster. That being said, there is a Black Faced version of those, but I do not know what is needed to make them work in your car as I do not have one to try.

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    I took apart my D type BFM to see about getting the security light to work. Although the circuit actually exists on the circuit board, none of the components are present.



    I populated these components and tested the board:



    The other problem is that the gauge silkscreen doesn't expose the security LED, so I carefully cut out the underlying shape (which was a key)



    I put in translucent red acrylic behind that hole and once installed behind the smoked plastic lens of the BFM, it disappears.

    Here it is all complete



    Seems to work just fine.

  30. #270
    Administrator rkrenicki's Avatar
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    Ah yes, the security light. It was available on the european market cars. The exceedingly hard to find 85015AE110/85015AE111 BFM that has the MPH scale has a functioning security/immobilizer light on it, as does the 85015AE100 that was shown earlier on this page.

    On a related note.. Do you have a MR1 thread for this car? I spy in that video.. a BFM, an s401 hazard switch, and possibly power folding mirrors (that might even be converted for LHD)? If it wasnt for the Impreza steering wheel, I would have thought you were working on my car...

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