anothernord
11-06-2011, 07:37 PM
I know this should technically go in the FI section, but it relates more to the N/A engine and it's possible issues.
I finally completed my swap; an EJ20H into a 97 Legacy OB, using the 25D ECU and wiring harness, and an Emanage Ultimate. I've been working out why I won't start for the last 4 days.
The starting system is fine, it cranks when power is applied, I just cranks and sputters a little and cranks some more then sputters encouragingly and cranks more. Sometimes it sounds like it is about to pick itself up and start, but it just continues cranking.
Things relating to the issue, either possible causes, observations, or important details:
-I extended the cam and crank sensor plugs, the #1 and #3 injectors plugs, and the CTS/ thermocouple on wiring harness to re-route them around hot things a while back. At first, I found that the wires on the crank sensor had frayed and broken off, causing a crank code. I fixed that and cleared the code, and it did not come back.
-Timing belt: I made sure the crank mark (NOT the TDC triangle) was aligned with the mark by the crank pos. sensor, and the cam pulleys had the double marks matching, and the belt had the correct number of teeth between all the marks. The crank sprocket and cams are right for the sensors, and the cam/cranks sensors both come out with 2000 Ohms of resistance. I've tried with the extras I have lying around.
-I put the stock injectors in, rescaled, and there was no difference.
-I'm running E85 at the moment, but all starting had been tested in a warm garage while the engine was warm from the use of a block heater.
-Coolant temp sensor reads the correct ambient temperature when the engine is cold.
-I tested the resistance between the positive and negative battery cables (removed from battery) and got around 33-35 ohms (IDK if that is within spec or whatever). I also unplugged and plugged in all sensors to see if one would change the resistance value. No difference.
-Ground are all good and attached.
-Blood sacrifice was completed
Here's where things get weird. The ~4 year old battery was a little weak from sitting 6 weeks, so I've been jumping it while I try to get it started, but even after it sat charging for 15 minutes, then was reconnected to the car, not even cranking, it would die within 30 minutes and have to be jumped again.
Here's a quick datalog of cranking. The yellow line shows timing, which bounces all over the place, from 160 degrees to 30, to -20, to whatever. However, a timing light showed that the spark was firing mostly at TDC, with an occasional jump to minus 20-30 degrees. That is confounding. Also, the injector output duty cycle sometimes jumps to 40+%, for no apparent reason.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/11/WTFcrankingpng-1.jpg
This leads be to think of a couple things,
a) Through my monkeying with the wiring, something could be shorting out, killing the battery and causing things to malfunction.
b) Timing is some how still off, whether relating to the wiring, or the timing belt is still weird.
c) Bent valves (unlikely, engine turns smoothly and has resistance at the proper spots)
d) Fouled plugs (they came out of a running engine, but they looked fine when I pulled them after a marathon of cranking yesterday)
e) Compression (also unlikely, had compression when I pulled it to do HG's, and it is audibly compressing during cranking)
I guess the next things to do, in order, would be:
-new plugs
-inspect test, and possibly remove the while wiring harness
-compression test
I've racked my brain, the internet, and had several people take a look. I am a noob, and therefore, help would be greatly appreciated.
I finally completed my swap; an EJ20H into a 97 Legacy OB, using the 25D ECU and wiring harness, and an Emanage Ultimate. I've been working out why I won't start for the last 4 days.
The starting system is fine, it cranks when power is applied, I just cranks and sputters a little and cranks some more then sputters encouragingly and cranks more. Sometimes it sounds like it is about to pick itself up and start, but it just continues cranking.
Things relating to the issue, either possible causes, observations, or important details:
-I extended the cam and crank sensor plugs, the #1 and #3 injectors plugs, and the CTS/ thermocouple on wiring harness to re-route them around hot things a while back. At first, I found that the wires on the crank sensor had frayed and broken off, causing a crank code. I fixed that and cleared the code, and it did not come back.
-Timing belt: I made sure the crank mark (NOT the TDC triangle) was aligned with the mark by the crank pos. sensor, and the cam pulleys had the double marks matching, and the belt had the correct number of teeth between all the marks. The crank sprocket and cams are right for the sensors, and the cam/cranks sensors both come out with 2000 Ohms of resistance. I've tried with the extras I have lying around.
-I put the stock injectors in, rescaled, and there was no difference.
-I'm running E85 at the moment, but all starting had been tested in a warm garage while the engine was warm from the use of a block heater.
-Coolant temp sensor reads the correct ambient temperature when the engine is cold.
-I tested the resistance between the positive and negative battery cables (removed from battery) and got around 33-35 ohms (IDK if that is within spec or whatever). I also unplugged and plugged in all sensors to see if one would change the resistance value. No difference.
-Ground are all good and attached.
-Blood sacrifice was completed
Here's where things get weird. The ~4 year old battery was a little weak from sitting 6 weeks, so I've been jumping it while I try to get it started, but even after it sat charging for 15 minutes, then was reconnected to the car, not even cranking, it would die within 30 minutes and have to be jumped again.
Here's a quick datalog of cranking. The yellow line shows timing, which bounces all over the place, from 160 degrees to 30, to -20, to whatever. However, a timing light showed that the spark was firing mostly at TDC, with an occasional jump to minus 20-30 degrees. That is confounding. Also, the injector output duty cycle sometimes jumps to 40+%, for no apparent reason.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/11/WTFcrankingpng-1.jpg
This leads be to think of a couple things,
a) Through my monkeying with the wiring, something could be shorting out, killing the battery and causing things to malfunction.
b) Timing is some how still off, whether relating to the wiring, or the timing belt is still weird.
c) Bent valves (unlikely, engine turns smoothly and has resistance at the proper spots)
d) Fouled plugs (they came out of a running engine, but they looked fine when I pulled them after a marathon of cranking yesterday)
e) Compression (also unlikely, had compression when I pulled it to do HG's, and it is audibly compressing during cranking)
I guess the next things to do, in order, would be:
-new plugs
-inspect test, and possibly remove the while wiring harness
-compression test
I've racked my brain, the internet, and had several people take a look. I am a noob, and therefore, help would be greatly appreciated.