Third Gen Black Faced Meter (BFM) Information - 2015-01-09

[tom_ice]

pins A30,B18,C16

[rkrenicki]

Yes, that is LHD, so I will need some time to work up a pinout listing for you.

It is worth noting that since you have an H4 car and that is an H6 cluster, that the tachometer reading will be incorrect in your car. Unfortunately, there is no easy way around that, but all other functions should work correctly.

[rkrenicki]

I have the service manual here, and I am making up a pinout chart for you. I will also double check the LHD non-BFM car, and make up a chart for that model as well.

I should have it filled in tonight, and I will clean it up and post it here tomorrow.

[ecoflame]

This is a awesome thread of information! I just acquired a BFM (85015AE010) with the full harness. I have a couple questions regarding the install.

Is it worth the hassle to swap over the whole harness, or should I just repin the connectors?

Also the same person sold be the HID lights and the leveler switch so would swapping harnesses make the install of the leveler easier than with out?

I have a '03 BE MT and the BFM is from an auto, what's the best method to cover up the PRD123 since I won't be using it?

And as for the Kilometeres to miles conversion the seller had said it already had the nessacry adapter for conversion but after inspecting the harness and reading this thread I don't think it has one. But I'm not a 100% sure on what I'm looking for.

Any help you'd be willing to provide would be greatly appreciated.

[rkrenicki]

That dash harness will *NOT* be plug and play into your car, even if you rotated all of the connectors. The JDM harness is just far too different from any US car.

Since it is an 010 cluster, it has a 14 pin i12/C connector which is the same as your US car. I would recommend just repinning your US harness for it. A couple of wires will need to be extended, and you will need to split a power wire and a ground wire, but all in all it is fairly straight forward.

The UK car probably did have an adapter (Required to pass SVA there), but they are generally either on the TCU or near the ECU. Sometimes they are installed near the cluster, but not often. Without looking at your dash harness, I couldnt say for sure.

I would suggest putting black electrical tape over the PRND321. If you take the cluster apart and remove the mid-plate, put the tape over the number and reassemble, it would look pretty stock.

[Alphius]

I happened to read this thread today and I know of a fix for the H4 vs. H6 tach reading.
It's not as simple and clean as a potential programming change on the cluster, but it should still work.
I'm curious if anyone has tried something like this before? It should be possible to build your own signal interface with a microcontroller as well.

http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=127/prd127.htm

Again, similar to a kph/mph speedo change.

http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=126/

[rkrenicki]

Yes, that would work, but it is very expensive for what it is. You might as well buy the correct cluster to start.

I can change any cluster to 4 or 6 cylinder in the firmware for free, but reprogramming is not something everyone can do.

[Alphius]

It is pretty expensive, but it is an option I hadn't seen mentioned for somebody who doesn't have the programming equipment or expertise and mistakenly bought the wrong cluster.

[rkrenicki]

The kmh/MPH adaptation cannot be done in firmware (yet?), as the scales are different between the UK H6 cluster and all of the JDM ones... but I am still working on that.

Both Yamazaki and I personally use the SGI-5 adapter to compensate for legacy sized tires. They are great adapters.

[ecoflame]

I was looking over the harness yesterday and came to the conclusion it probably wouldn't fit. Earlier in this thread (a couple years ago) you spoke of making multiple adapter boards for the clusters. You wouldn't happen to still have one would you? Also for the odometer I don't have the necessary equipment to convert to my actual miles. Is there a way I could pull the chip and send it to you for adjustment? Or maybe pull the one from my stock cluster and install it?

If you would rather me PM you I can, so not to clutter up your thread.

[rkrenicki]

Either here or PM is fine, or even on facebook message is okay with me.

The chip is soldered to the board; if you can safely remove it, I am willing to reprogram it for you. Luckily, you have the easier of the two chips to remove. Your US cluster EEPROM will not work in a BFM.

[Staxta]

From what I have, 080 is for the 2.5L, not an H6....

I'll double check your list with what I have and make corrections as I see them. Unfortunately, I have stuff by model code, not trim or description. But I know that a BH9 is 2.5L and that's what got the 080.


Just a quick correction, the 080 is a H6 cluster. I have one of these clusters and it came from Japan from a BH9 Lancaster 6.

[rkrenicki]

Just a quick correction, the 080 is a H6 cluster. I have one of these clusters and it came from Japan from a BH9 Lancaster 6.

Can you send me/post some pictures of the front and back of that cluster? I have only seen one 080 on YJ, and it had no pictures or vehicle data on it... that was also well over a year ago now. The 080 is a gaping hole in my master list of clusters for a while now. Then again, I have not done any cluster research in a while either.


EDIT: Nevermind, I found one on YJ right now with pictures. Says it came from a BEED4PE (An RS30) which makes it a 6 cylinder for sure. http://page18.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/w119486033 I do not know what the difference is between the 080 and 090.. they seem to have identical features..

[ecoflame]

Do you have a picture where the EEPROM is on the BFM? I don't trust my self to pull it so I'll take it to a friend's computer shop and see if he'll be willing to unsolder it from the board.

[rkrenicki]

I dont, and I do not have an A~C cluster anymore to take a picture... However, it is the chip on the right side of this picture. It is the only one shaped like this one. It is about 1/4" square.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/12/IMAG0131-1.jpg

[rkrenicki]

So, while doing some more research on clusters, I stumbled across a number of Russian websites that have taken the information this thread and localized it to Russian.

I like the part on this page that "most americans" use my circuit board based adapter: https://www.drive2.ru/l/5160583/
Another Drive2 page: https://www.drive.net/l/4108954/
There is a very big thread here, with a few bits of mine peppered around: http://forums.drom.ru/subaru/t1151100253.html

[4thgenleggy09]

I have a 09 legacy will a type c with the digital read out work in my car and how do I find one?

[rkrenicki]

The BFMs covered here are only for the 3rd gen cars (2000-2004). There have been a few people who have made them work on some 2nd gen (1995-1999) but it is not easy.

The 4th gen (2005-2009) uses CANBUS for a lot of its cluster data, so you would need another 4th gen cluster. That being said, there is a Black Faced version of those, but I do not know what is needed to make them work in your car as I do not have one to try.

[hupshall]

I took apart my D type BFM to see about getting the security light to work. Although the circuit actually exists on the circuit board, none of the components are present.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/10/20150927_173752-2.jpg

I populated these components and tested the board:

https://youtu.be/Nb9eOvQaRK0

The other problem is that the gauge silkscreen doesn't expose the security LED, so I carefully cut out the underlying shape (which was a key)

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/10/WP_20151019_002-1.jpg

I put in translucent red acrylic behind that hole and once installed behind the smoked plastic lens of the BFM, it disappears.

Here it is all complete


https://youtu.be/s-x2sowzElE

Seems to work just fine.

[rkrenicki]

Ah yes, the security light. It was available on the european market cars. The exceedingly hard to find 85015AE110/85015AE111 BFM that has the MPH scale has a functioning security/immobilizer light on it, as does the 85015AE100 that was shown earlier on this page.

On a related note.. Do you have a MR1 thread for this car? I spy in that video.. a BFM, an s401 hazard switch, and possibly power folding mirrors (that might even be converted for LHD)? If it wasnt for the Impreza steering wheel, I would have thought you were working on my car...

[TyrWagon]

Hi! Today was arrived to my home an BFM Cluster 85015AE020. I want to put in my 1997 BG. This came without plugs, but I think that I fix by buying on the page that you have given us in another thread. I dont need the km/h to mp/h converter, here in Chile we use the km/h... You'd have you any advice for me? Any suggestions?

Not sure how to start this project, I can not always get on the SLI page but really appreciate your help.

EDT:
Just completed, carefully read your thread .. I think first of consulting you, I will read the user Barbachello thread. And I realized that there are complications in the speedometer readings signal ...

Still, I think I'll buy Mouser connectors, because the cluster came without connectors.

988
989
990
991
992

[ecoflame]

As part of the "BFM try 2", I am going to try to reverse engineer these kph/mph adapters.

I have another one in hand, and it is extremely simple.. just one PIC microcontroller, two transistors, a capacitor, and five resistors. Absolutely not worth $50+, as it is only about $4-5 in parts. The hard part is going to be extracting the software off of the controller, but knowing what kind it is and how it is wired up would tell me alot to write my own firmware if necessary.

Is this basically what you bought? http://www.svaspeedos.co.uk/e0021.html

[rkrenicki]

Yes, that is the same adapter. They used to sell them on eBay, but I cant seem to find them at the moment.

That being said, the Dakota Digital SGI-5 is only a little more, but is infinitely adjustable to allow for any tire size that you want.

[hupshall]

rkrenicki, if you need any help, give me a ping - this was on my list of things to do - I'd even sketched the board but I can't find the damn file.

[ecoflame]

Yes, that is the same adapter. They used to sell them on eBay, but I cant seem to find them at the moment.

That being said, the Dakota Digital SGI-5 is only a little more, but is infinitely adjustable to allow for any tire size that you want.

Really.... Well that's a game changer. I guess I'll order that one instead. One of the biggest deturents in me buying new wheels is the speedo correction I'd need for 18s. Awesome!

[ecoflame]

Are you still willing to re flash my EEPROM if I send it to you. :toothy5: :toothy5:

[yaya]

Really.... Well that's a game changer. I guess I'll order that one instead. One of the biggest deturents in me buying new wheels is the speedo correction I'd need for 18s. Awesome!

You can get tires for those 18s that wouldn't change your overall rolling diameter.

(I can see where it would be handy if you really wanted to change to a different aspect ratio)

[rkrenicki]

You can get tires for those 18s that wouldn't change your overall rolling diameter.

(I can see where it would be handy if you really wanted to change to a different aspect ratio)

Right, wheel size has nothing to do with tire diameter.. however, with the SGI-5, you could run a taller tire on the 18s than you normal and keep your speedometer accurate.

[ecoflame]

I understand the overall diameter could be tweaked by tire size, but having the ability to adjust as need be is nice. That allows me to find the perfect combination for my platform.

[radu416]

Hi,

Thanks for sharing all this info on this project. I have a few questions, but first a little background.
I'm trying to swap a Type D MT 510AE040 into my 2000 Outback also with an MT, Canadian vehicle, so KM/H is ok for me. I don't want to cut my car's harness so I want to make an adapter to plug into the existing connectors.
My BFM did not come with any of the JDM wiring or plugs so I've bought the components from Mouser, but I also acquired the plugs from a wrecked Outback and an impreza. I have the 30, 18, and 16 pins with some wires sticking out of them,as well as virgin plugs and sockets.
I've carefully gone through the diagrams posted on the first page of this thread and have a pretty solid idea of what comes next. Now onto my questions.

1. On the USDM side Pin C7 (Battery Constant) is supposed to go to A9 AND C1 on the JDM Side? Am I supposed to "tap" into the wire coming from US C7 to get 2 wires going to JDM side?
2. On the USDM side there are 3 pins for Ignition (A8, A18, C3) and there are 3 on the JDM Side. Can any US ignition pins match any JDM ignition pins or is there a specific order?
3. USDM pin A17 (Buzzer) does not have a match on the JDM Side. Do I lose this function? Is this the chime for open doors with the key in ignition?
4. What happens to all the Illumination Control functions on the JDM Side(C2,C3,C4)? Do I just cover the ends of the wires?
5. Am I missing a component in the spot below?
1189

[rkrenicki]

radu416, Sorry, I didnt see this message until just now.



1. On the USDM side Pin C7 (Battery Constant) is supposed to go to A9 AND C1 on the JDM Side? Am I supposed to "tap" into the wire coming from US C7 to get 2 wires going to JDM side?
Yes, the JDM cluster needs more power connections than the US cluster had.



2. On the USDM side there are 3 pins for Ignition (A8, A18, C3) and there are 3 on the JDM Side. Can any US ignition pins match any JDM ignition pins or is there a specific order?

The order does not matter, Ignition voltage is Ignition voltage. Further up in the loom, they all tie together anyways.



3. USDM pin A17 (Buzzer) does not have a match on the JDM Side. Do I lose this function? Is this the chime for open doors with the key in ignition?

The buzzer is for Sportshift and/or VDC. It is on pin C12 on both types of Japanese clusters.. however since this is a Manual cluster, it does not have a buzzer present.



4. What happens to all the Illumination Control functions on the JDM Side(C2,C3,C4)? Do I just cover the ends of the wires?

They would get wired to your illumination stalk. There is some discussion of that in this thread. The cluster will be at about 25% brightness if nothing is connected to these wires. If you connect C2 and C3 together, then it will be full bright all of the time if you dont want to hack up the stalk wiring in your car.



5. Am I missing a component in the spot below?

That is where the Sportshift/VDC buzzer would be. Again, since this is a Manual cluster, it does not have it populated.

[foohfooh]

Whew.

[radu416]

Thanks for your reply. Since I last posted I completed my harness adapter and installed it into the car. It looks great and almost everything works. I thought the parking brake light wasn't working, but one day I did, then it stopped. Maybe a wire came loose, or the bulb is out. I will investigate this further next time I take the cluster out to modify my harness for full brightness with the lights on.

[Matty2Hotty]

Thanks for your reply. Since I last posted I completed my harness adapter and installed it into the car. It looks great and almost everything works. I thought the parking brake light wasn't working, but one day I did, then it stopped. Maybe a wire came loose, or the bulb is out. I will investigate this further next time I take the cluster out to modify my harness for full brightness with the lights on.

Might be the trigger ground off your ebrake handle, mine is sticky. If you pull up on your handle you can see it between the rubber slit, use a screw drive or something to press down or lift up to ground it out. Might be gummed up or spring lost its tension.

[radu416]

I will check it out, but I doubt it. It worked fine on my original meter

[rkrenicki]

Thanks for your reply. Since I last posted I completed my harness adapter and installed it into the car. It looks great and almost everything works. I thought the parking brake light wasn't working, but one day I did, then it stopped. Maybe a wire came loose, or the bulb is out. I will investigate this further next time I take the cluster out to modify my harness for full brightness with the lights on.

It could be a poor connection, but it is more likely that the bulb is either loose or burned out. I would try twisting the bulb back and forth a few times to ensure that it has a good connection. If that does not fix it, then I would replace the bulb. All of the black base bulbs are a standard type 74 bulb. You might as well replace them all while you are in there.

[Inches]

Not to thread jack, but I've been scouring this thread for info and want to do this on my BH L wagon. The only problem is I can't seem to locate a gauge. Can anyone point me in the direction of sourcing one?? Thanks

[rkrenicki]

Not to thread jack, but I've been scouring this thread for info and want to do this on my BH L wagon. The only problem is I can't seem to locate a gauge. Can anyone point me in the direction of sourcing one?? Thanks

If there are none on eBay, then your best bet it to buy one from Yahoo Auctions Japan via a Japanese bidding proxy.

EDIT: I see 4 A-C type clusters, and 1 D-type cluster on eBay right now.

[Inches]

If there are none on eBay, then your best bet it to buy one from Yahoo Auctions Japan via a Japanese bidding proxy.

EDIT: I see 4 A-C type clusters, and 1 D-type cluster on eBay right now.

What are you searching on eBay?? For some reason the part number code block in this thread keeps locking away even once I'm logged in. And the only one that I'm seeing on eBay a manual A-C and an STi white face. Thanks for the help.

[rkrenicki]

I am searching "Subaru Legacy JDM Cluster", and I am just scanning the cluster shapes, as there are a lot of 4th gen clusters on there too. I am determining type largely from the picture of the odometer/trip meter.

You are right about the code blocks.. they seem to be broken since I did the vbulletin upgrade last week. I will look at them now.

[rkrenicki]

So, there has been some interesting conversation developing on facebook in regards to BFMs. I am going to attempt to copy and paste the conversation here for posterity and sum up at the end. ecoflame hupshall amgarrety Grimmrican


ecoflame: Have you had any issues with your fuel gauge?
hupshall: Like what? Mine works just fine. I also love the way the ring flashes when the fuel light is one.
@rkrenicki: No, but I do know that some people have issues with their fuel gauges sometimes on the A-C type clusters for some reason. I havent seen the problem in person yet, so I do not know what the issue would be.
ecoflame: It will randomly drop to empty and then rise back up. Sometimes it throws a code. P0462 fuel level sensor "A" circuit low.
ecoflame: I've been meaning to message you for any insight.
@rkrenicki: Yea, you are not the first person to tell me about that. Actually, didnt we talk about it before? I know I have talked to at least 3 people with that issue, and they all had earlier type clusters (010, 020, or 030)
ecoflame: We conversed over what ended up be a mis-wired ground. I have two BFM clusters and it will do it with both of them. Ones the manual version (010?) and the others an auto (030?).
ecoflame: I'm thinking it might have something to do with the adapter harness, but I don't know where to start.
hupshall: So, the P0462 code will certainly come from the fact that the needle drops down to empty - The ECU is looking at the voltage between the gauge and the actual sensor in the tank - the voltage is how it determines the resistance and therefore the position of the float in the tank. This power comes from the circuit inside the BFM itself, I would perhaps take the unit apart, check to make sure none of the solder joints are cracked.
@rkrenicki: Do you have one of my PCB adapters? I don't have my list handy of those who have em
ecoflame: Robert - no I made one similar to yours off SLi before you had the boards made.
ecoflame: Huw - fair point, however I have two BFMs and it happens with both. While possible, the likelihood of both having a damaged or defective component is low. I'm thinking I should probably go ahead and pull the adapter out and resolder the fuel gage wire to the pin.
hupshall: Depending on how often it repro's - if you have access to a data logger which can log voltage, run with that for a while and see if the voltage on the output of the meter really does go down to 0
hupshall: Also, I know a guy over on the Peninsula who's also stated he has issues - so I'm wondering if there is something subtly different in the A-C wiring
@rkrenicki: The A-C wiring is different from D, but the fuel gauge is just one wire connected to the cluster.. not exactly rocket science.

I wonder if either A) the fuel line is shorting to ground somewhere intermittently.. or B) The way that the fuel is monitored by the ECU is different between the A-C and the D type.

Now, I did used to have a C type (030) cluster in my car for a short time until I sourced my first D type H6 cluster. During that time, I had no issues with the fuel gauge, but I didnt have it there for more than a couple of months. But, that is on an H6 car.. which may or may not make a difference.
@rkrenicki: Okay, to sum up.. Four people have my A-C type speedometer adapter. Three of them have this issue that I know of. Grimmrican also has this issue, but does not have my adapter.

I did not experience the problem in my car, but my experience with the C type cluster was not extensive. Grimmrican had a A/B type cluster in his car that I re-pinned.. and I do not believe he had this problem. amgarrety does have one my adapters, and I do not believe he has seen this issue either.

I have never seen this issue on any D-type cluster.
ecoflame: I'm suspecting it has to do with the wire and soldered pins. Huw mention a good point the resistance fluctuating. And @rkrenicki you make a fair assumption about the wire shorting out somewhere along the adapter.

As of right now I feel my best coarse of action would be to open the dash back up, remove the adapter harness and either resolder the wire and pin for the fuel meter or just attempt to better insulate the connections.
ecoflame: Ultimately it could be the actual A-C clusters by being 100% comparable with the USDM ECU and or harness. Which I hope is not the case.
@rkrenicki: Are you talking about touching up the solder on the cluster connectors, or on your adapter? I am thinking that all of these may be aged (15-17 years old now..) solder connections on the back of the cluster PCB.
ecoflame: I was referring to the adapter. I don't trust my skills enough to mess with the PCB.
ecoflame: I have noticed that the levels are different between USDM and JDM. Basically when the needle gets to the JDM "E" position there's is still around 1/5 to 1/6 of a tank left. I know this based of miles per tank.
@rkrenicki: I believe that each cluster has a different calibration for the fuel. My silver car has seen over a dozen different clusters, as I use it for testing.. Every one seems to have a slightly different position for fuel. In fact, the current cluster (the one in the photo above) is quite off.. my low fuel light comes on super early, somewhere around 1/4-1/3 of a tank.
Grimmrican: Uber late to this party but my cluster did have this issue. After a year it started to drop to zero fuel then eventually find its way back up. But as @rkrenicki mentioned my hunch was a grounding issue or more leaning to the fact that my fuel floater was faulty. Which I knew the float would not read correctly in most cases once it dropped below 1/4 tank.
@rkrenicki: Huh.. I didnt know that. I also found out that amgarrety's also had this issue. So, its official. Every single A-C type cluster that I have been aware of has had this issue, regardless of adapter type (car repin, wire adapter, pcb adapter).

It must be a compatibility issue, or they are all developing the same fault due to age.

[rkrenicki]

So, A~C type clusters seem to have an issue with the fuel gauges on North American cars. I have no reports (or experience) with the same issue on any D-type cluster.

So as of right now, I can only recommend D-type clusters in North American cars.

[hupshall]

Gosh darn it - Now the OCD part of me wants to get an A-C cluster to reproduce the problem and figure it out.

[rkrenicki]

Gosh darn it - Now the OCD part of me wants to get an A-C cluster to reproduce the problem and figure it out.

I have the remainder of Grimmrican's 030 cluster, which is complete except for the speedometer servo if you want it.. but both Red85Celica and James near you have these clusters in their cars.

It does bother me that this issue is there, but I really do not have the time to try to track the issue down. Especially since I would basically need to convert my car to an A~C cluster since it is an intermittent problem.

Then again, the D-type cluster has more options available (different redlines, STI, H4 and H6 versions), it also has 2 trip meters and a cruise light for the 2004 models.. They are also not more expensive, and are readily available. I really have no reason to not recommend them.

[DETT]

Hi
I'm writing from Poland, EU.
I've read the whole thread and i want to give my Legacy the BFM Mod.
So i want to ask about something.
My car i a 2001 pre-facelift, 4-cyl 2,5 NA AT (w/VTD) with VDC.
A freind of my is wanting to sell my a JDM gauge cluster. It's from an MT. The OE nr is 85015AE040, so from Your info i decipherd it's D-type. It has the clock on the left side and the redline starts at 7,5k rpm.
Can You tell if I will have any problems with putting this into my Legacy? Of course i'm awere of the fact that i won't have the PRND tree. But anything else that can not work? The VDC lamp or something?

[02boxer4]

I have recently purchased the tommy kaira cluster and am curious what the 6 pin black connector going to the back of the speedo is!
Thanks
Tyler

[rkrenicki]

I have recently purchased the tommy kaira cluster and am curious what the 6 pin black connector going to the back of the speedo is!
Thanks
Tyler

That information is already in this thread, back on post #148.

[02boxer4]

Thank you so much!! What an awesome thread! Amazing job!

[Somac]

Bumping this thread for another reminder of how amazing it is. Extremely detailed, every bit of information you could ever ask for, common problems and fixes, etc. I was pretty intimidated at first when I was thinking about doing this swap, but I just confidently purchased a BFM from Japan and it's on the way.

Just bought an 040 cluster for my '04 Outback 5MT for ~$90 shipped. Very happy I was able to find the 040 as I really didn't want to put up with having the PRNDL in the center and it means I get the higher tach and both trip lights.

rkrenicki, have any more of those adapter boards for the D type? I want to keep my stock harness in tact so everything will be removable.

Thank you again for all of the insane amount of hours of researching, testing, and experimenting you did! It's truly amazing how much information you compiled here. This is a very welcome first start for me on this forum (and Subaruoutback .org that you pulled me from).

[rkrenicki]

Bumping this thread for another reminder of how amazing it is. Extremely detailed, every bit of information you could ever ask for, common problems and fixes, etc. I was pretty intimidated at first when I was thinking about doing this swap, but I just confidently purchased a BFM from Japan and it's on the way.

Thank you again for all of the insane amount of hours of researching, testing, and experimenting you did! It's truly amazing how much information you compiled here. This is a very welcome first start for me on this forum (and Subaruoutback .org that you pulled me from).
Not a problem! I am glad to have helped!



rkrenicki, have any more of those adapter boards for the D type? I want to keep my stock harness in tact so everything will be removable.
Unfortunately, I do not. It was not a cost effective item to build ($80ish in parts, and hours of time to assemble), and people did not want to spend $125 on an adapter, so I stopped making them.

[Romy]

I took apart my D type BFM to see about getting the security light to work. Although the circuit actually exists on the circuit board, none of the components are present.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/10/20150927_173752-1.jpg

I populated these components and tested the board:

https://youtu.be/Nb9eOvQaRK0

The other problem is that the gauge silkscreen doesn't expose the security LED, so I carefully cut out the underlying shape (which was a key)

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/10/WP_20151019_002-2.jpg

I put in translucent red acrylic behind that hole and once installed behind the smoked plastic lens of the BFM, it disappears.

Here it is all complete


https://youtu.be/s-x2sowzElE

Seems to work just fine.

When you populated the board, what resistors, diodes, caps, etc did you use? Soldering in some LEDs is pretty straightforward but I'm not sure what to use to populate the other components which are in the circuit. For example, the Security circuit connects to what's labelled as:

R409
D401 (which goes to pin 7 on the 30 pin connector)
C415 & R410 (which I'd assume sets the time constant for the flashing?)
the sport shift light bulb socket (easy to source)
D171
TR172 (perhaps a A1674?)
CR512
R174 (SMD?)
R175 (SMD?)

Any idea on these? Can you share where you found a diagram or what you did? It would be very much appreciated. I tried taking apart the USDM cluster I took out of my car and it's a different circuit... I have an Impreza cluster I can rob parts off of but this JDM board is a lot more complex than the USDM boards I've messed with before.

[rkrenicki]

I do have a European market cluster which has the security LED preinstalled, so I will take at look at the components there when I get a chance.

That said, I know that R174, R175, C512, D171, and TR172 are for the sportshift backlight, not the security light.

[Romy]

Thanks rkrenicki, much appreciated!

I was just tracing the lines when I came up with those...I definitely could have traced wrong but I believe that one side of the sport shift light is in line with one of the security light diodes. Please do let me know when you have a chance.

-Romy

[FiveZigen]

Super informative thread! Thanks for all who contributed.

[jhill1977]

Well, after stumbling across this thread, I bit the bullet and bought myself a 85015AE080 cluster for my 2004 H6 LL Bean wagon. My cluster came with about 6 inches of wire as well as the plugs for the three connection on the cluster side. That said, I have a few questions.

#1 Do the sockets from Mouser include the necessary male pins and a short bit of lead to solder a small gauge wire to? It is tough to tell from the pics and I'm hoping to build an interface harness, as opposed to re-pinning the wiring in my car.

#2 Are the halo rings supposed to be a very dim beige/brown color? Even at full brightness, by joining C2 & C3, the halo ring colors look pretty "washed out".

#3 What a good source for the small gauge wiring used in auto harnesses? This looks to be 20-22 gauge wire based on my wire stripping tool.


Thanks in advance...

Justin

[jhill1977]

Super informative thread! Thanks for all who contributed.

I second that. I'm very excited to get my BFM cluster installed.

[rkrenicki]

#1 Do the sockets from Mouser include the necessary male pins and a short bit of lead to solder a small gauge wire to? It is tough to tell from the pics and I'm hoping to build an interface harness, as opposed to re-pinning the wiring in my car.

The male connectors do have the pins in them, but be very careful soldering to them as the plastic has a tendency to melt. I recommend removing the pins, trimming them down, soldering, heat shrinking, and reinserting them. They just pull straight out.


#2 Are the halo rings supposed to be a very dim beige/brown color? Even at full brightness, by joining C2 & C3, the halo ring colors look pretty "washed out".
It looks to me that several of your halo bulbs are burned out. They are quite a bit dimmer than the backlight, but they should be pretty noticeable either way.


#3 What a good source for the small gauge wiring used in auto harnesses? This looks to be 20-22 gauge wire based on my wire stripping tool.
Any electronic store or auto parts store will have it. Otherwise there is always Amazon or even Mouser.com

[hupshall]

Back to the P0462 Error code on non D type BFM's - Looking at the wiring diagram, it looks like this code gets thrown if the input voltage on the ECU monitoring pin of the fuel gauge circuit drops to 0. Honestly, I'm thinking who the heck cares? I'm going to throw together a simple circuit that just always provides 4v to the ECU monitor pin and see if that stops the code from being thrown. It's always a transient fluctuation in the cluster anyway and why the heck the Subaru decided that having a faulty fuel gauge should throw a check engine light I don't know... I'll report back, the parts are OTW

[rkrenicki]

I believe it to be aging solder joints for the connectors on the cluster. I think that the fuel gauge source pin on the cluster has intermittent connection due to a cold/poor solder joint. But, being that I have not worked on an A-C type cluster in quite some time, that is pure speculation.

[Romy]

rkrenicki - did you ever get a chance to look at the components on your European market cluster with the Security light?

[rkrenicki]

Ah, I had forgotten about this. I pulled it apart and snapped a photo moments ago.

[Romy]

I hate to be a pain, but I can't read that SMD capacitor or resistor on that board (C415 and R410). Can you check what they say? At least R410; I'd presume a SMD cap of the same size as the C61-C64 group would work and they don't appear to have values on them. I'm also wondering if there's anything connected to the lower part of that circuit. Specifically in the red circle below:

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2017/09/36907377062_cc09ebf7de_k-1.jpg

Sorry to keep bugging you. I've been trying to buy an Euro cluster off of the UK ebay for a bit now, and the guys parting cars there are super flaky and don't want to send pictures for some reason.

[rkrenicki]

Are you asking these sellers for pictures of the inside of clusters?

As for the parts, decoupling capacitors rarely are labeled with values, but I would guess something along the lines of 0.1uF at 16v. The circled item is a double via, likely connecting to the ground plane of the board. As for the resistor.. I guess I will have to take the cluster apart again. I will try to get to that sometime during the week.

[Romy]

Are you asking these sellers for pictures of the inside of clusters?


I'm simply asking for pictures of the clusters themselves. I just want to confirm it's a black face meter and has no damage.

Thanks for taking apart your cluster again. My background isn't electrical so this is a learn as you go kind of thing.

[rkrenicki]

I'm simply asking for pictures of the clusters themselves. I just want to confirm it's a black face meter and has no damage.

The BFM was quite uncommon in Europe. It was only on the Turbo B4 in mainland europe, and on the 2002/2003 Outback H6 in the UK. As such, the non-H6 meter is still in Kilometers, but is "LHD" so the inverter box on the back on the opposite side.

The UK market 2002/03 Outback H6 meter is the only BFM that has an MPH scale, but is only available as an Automatic and the tachometer is tuned for H6 engines.

[jhill1977]

I've been searching for a 85015AE110 or 111 BFM cluster for a while now. I like that it reads in MPH and includes the security light. If you ever decide to sell yours, I'd be interested.


The BFM was quite uncommon in Europe. It was only on the Turbo B4 in mainland europe, and on the 2002/2003 Outback H6 in the UK. As such, the non-H6 meter is still in Kilometers, but is "LHD" so the inverter box on the back on the opposite side.

The UK market 2002/03 Outback H6 meter is the only BFM that has an MPH scale, but is only available as an Automatic and the tachometer is tuned for H6 engines.

[rkrenicki]

I've been searching for a 85015AE110 or 111 BFM cluster for a while now. I like that it reads in MPH and includes the security light. If you ever decide to sell yours, I'd be interested.

I actually do have one available. I currently have three in my possession, and only two cars that can use them. I was going to be listing it for sale at some point, but I havent gotten around to it. I will try to get some pictures later this evening and post it up.

[Lancaster6]

Is there a part number or source for the light bulb sockets that illuminate the halos? I thought I had a light out on my BFM, but to my surprise the entire socket has gone missing. :smt017 It must have rattled out and disappeared behind the dash, as I haven't found it rolling around on the floor. I haven't found it stuck in some nook and/or cranny either...

[rkrenicki]

The part number earlier in the thread (which I havent looked through at the moment) is for the bulbs with sockets for the whole cluster.. When I get home, I will find the post and quote it here.

EDIT: Found it back on page 9.


I was able to get my hands on an original halo bulb kit. There are 8 bulbs in total. The Subaru part number is 85091AE000.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/02/IMG_20150213_091241_zpsgayhrjli-1.jpg

6 of the bulbs are the larger 14V3WL made by Toshiba. These have a blue base with a yellow paint mark.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/02/IMG_20150213_091010_zpsgub6jepr-1.jpg

The other 2 are the smaller Type 80 bulb, also made by Toshiba. These have a black base with a blue paint mark.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/02/IMG_20150213_091042_zps5boccc1b-1.jpg

Toshibas part number for the larger bare bulb is A7824. It is a 6.5mm-T2 W2.2x5.2D wedge rated for 214mA @14V, with 15 lumens output and a 5000 hour life. Reference "61 431"
Toshibas part number for the smaller bare bulb is A7429. It is a 5.0mm-T1.5 W2x4.6D wedge rated for 140mA @14V, with 8 lumens output and a 5000 hour life. Reference "80"

The type 80 bulb is physically the same as a Type 74, except that its operational life is 5 times longer. (5000hrs vs 1000hrs)

I am trying to find a US source for these bulbs, and I will update this once I find them.

[hupshall]

The bulb holders are Toshiba V-2, available on Amazon, ebay, etc.. Just look for a T5 twist lock.

[jhill1977]

The part number earlier in the thread (which I havent looked through at the moment) is for the bulbs with sockets for the whole cluster.. When I get home, I will find the post and quote it here.

Did you ever get around to documenting the process to wire the BFM into the US dimming circuit on the turn signal stalk ?

[rkrenicki]

Did you ever get around to documenting the process to wire the BFM into the US dimming circuit on the turn signal stalk ?

I have not.. I did write it up earlier in the thread, but the process of taking pictures requires me to pull stuff apart, and I just have not been motivated to do that as of late.

Perhaps I will make a drawing instead..

[hupshall]

If you want to do this, it's probably the easiest thing about putting in the BFM - splice the three wires coming out of the BFM dimmer circuit to the corresponding three wires of the dimmer switch. You have to disconnect the dimmer switch from the regular subaru illumination module so you won't be able to dim any of the other lights anymore.

Honestly, 5 minutes with the wiring diagrams available on this site will show you want to do.

[jhill1977]

Not a problem! I am glad to have helped!



Unfortunately, I do not. It was not a cost effective item to build ($80ish in parts, and hours of time to assemble), and people did not want to spend $125 on an adapter, so I stopped making them.

Any chance you might have the time/interest to make a one-off adapter for my 85015AE110 BFM cluster? I bought the cluster off of you last year, and haven't yet gotten around to installing it into my '04 LL Bean wagon.

I was thinking about doing the whole harness myself with the mouser pins and socket adapters, but your PCB is just too nice to ignore. If you DID build another adapter board, what would it cost me? I know you said it's cost prohibitive, with $80 in parts and hours of labor, but could you give me an estimate anyways?

Feel free to PM here if that's easier...

Thanks in advance,

Justin

[jhill1977]

First off, as I've said before, thanks to EVERYONE that has contributed to this thread over the years, but especially rkrenicki. After sitting on the BFM cluster I bought from rkrenicki for over a year, I'm hoping to get it installed before snow flies. That said I've got a few questions.

After looking at the first few postings, I have a question about the wiring necessary. I have a 20004 H6 wagon that I'm planning to install a 85015AE110 Type D cluster into. Before buying the 85015AE100, I had bought an 85015AE80 cluster which registers in kilometers. After comparing the two sets of wiring plugs, there appear to be some MAJOR differences between the two clusters from a wiring standpoint.

That said, what I'm seeing leads me to believe that each BFM cluster has it's own specific wiring setup, aside from the basic 12v battery, ignition and grounds for the cluster itself. Can anyone kindly supply me a wiring diagram highlighting the pin wiring for my 85015AE110. I can very easily match the wire colors in my existing USDM cluster harness to the wire colors for the 85015AE110, but the last thing I want to do is fry my rare and somewhat expensive 85015AE110 cluster by somehow putting a 12v for a turn signal where a ground for another gauge is supposed to go.

Thanks a million guys...

Justin

[rkrenicki]

After comparing the two sets of wiring plugs, there appear to be some MAJOR differences between the two clusters from a wiring standpoint.

All D-type BFM clusters have identical wiring. I am 100% positive that the chart is correct for the 110 that you have, as well as the 080. The only real differences between D-type cars would be the optional wires such as Automatic Gear indicators, VDC, or Sportshift wires being absent or present.

The pigtails that I included with the 110 were very likely from a US car and have US wire colors, so do not use that as any sort of guide. They were just something I picked out of my bin-of-connectors. The C connector shouldnt even have any wires in it at all since it was brand new.

[jhill1977]

Awesome, so all the talk I saw about requests for wiring diagrams and excel docs are a moot point? It didn't even occur to me the plugs you sent were likely from a USDM vehicle, now it makes more sense. I just tested both my 110 clusters with my 080 plugs and everything seems to be working with one odd exception. Can you confirm that the LED for the seatbelt reminder is missing from the 110 cluster? The icon is printed on the cluster cover, but there's no bulb LED bulb behind the indicator. Oddly, my 080 cluster has the LED, but it's missing from both my 110 clusters. Gain the MPH speedometer gauges ,but loose the seatbelt dummy light...GRR

[rkrenicki]

Well.. you would know better than me by looking at both of your clusters. I would have to pull the one out of my car to check, but if you have two different 110 clusters and neither has an LED there.. then I guess there is no seatbelt light.

I thought the 110 did have one, but I cannot really say without looking, which you have already done.

[jhill1977]

I just figured I'd ask, as I was pretty sure you've got at least one of these clusters installed in your fleet of Super Subarus. :-)

On a related note, what's involved in installing an LED for that spot ? I know a question was asked about adding the security LED, to the non-UK BFMs, but seeing this bulb doesn't flash, I'm assuming it's a much easier install?

[jhill1977]

SO, fellow BFM fans, I've got a question for the group.

In the D-TYPE BFM wiring diagram, A27(VEHICLE OUTLINE), the white-red wire is listed to connect to 12V. But in my testing outside my vehicle dash, if I hook this to 12V and then trigger any open door or the trunk by grounding that wire, my whole cluster goes dark. Grounding this wire, like any of the door or trunk triggers does nothing.

Oddly, in my factory H6 cluster, grounding the same wire at position A23 (VEHICLE OUTLINE) does indeed cause the vehicle outline to light up independently of the door triggers. But just as with the BFM gauge, it's marked for 12V in the wiring diagrams supplied earlier. Feeding 12V as listed in the USDM wiring chart does nothing.

Has anyone else run across this anomaly ?

[rkrenicki]

The "Vehicle Outline" is actually an *output* wire back for the security system and the keyless entry systems. It should output 12V in certain circumstances. The "Polarity" column is more of a note to me about what sort of signal exists on that wire, not necessarily what direction that signal is. The charts are intended to tell you what the equivalent pin is on each model. In this case it should be connected from A23 (US side) to A27 (D-type side).

I really do not recommend you feed voltages into any pin that do you not know explicitly what it does. That can very likely end up damaging the cluster.

[TsukaFox]

Rkrenicki,

So i shouldn't have any issues related to the illumination dim being "GND" on the A-C Type JDM Non-BFM (A6) and the illumination dim being "12V" on the D Type BFM (B3)?

I am preparing the harness and noted this difference.

Also, let me take the opportunity to say thanks for everything in this thread. I wouldn't have the guts to do it if this didn't exist lol

[rkrenicki]

Apparently, the images in the thread here are incorrect. I had corrected that on the spreadsheet quite some time ago, but I guess I never took new screenshots for the thread.

All of the "Illumination Dim" wires are 12v. It is the same circuit as what feeds the radio for its dimming function.

[multistyle]

hi
first of all awsome treat this is with a lot of info big complimants

i have a Tk cluster nr85012060 i want to make a rewire harnas for it to fit my B4 but i cant find a diagram for a 12 060 can you help me with that
my b4 has a cluster with the nr.15ae020
big thanks al ready

[rkrenicki]

It is an 85012AE060?

[multistyle]

It is an 85012AE060?

yes it is sorry i fogot the ae stupid me

[rkrenicki]

That would be an "JDM Types A-C Normal" cluster. The pinouts are included in the first post for that kind as well.

[multistyle]

That would be an "JDM Types A-C Normal" cluster. The pinouts are included in the first post for that kind as well.

awsome mate thank you :thumbup::bounce2:

[crjohnson]

Hi guys,

Great thread so far, looking forward to putting this BFM i picked up yesterday into my 2002 BH9 Aussie Outback. Thought I'd post a picture as it has a different part number than I've seen here so far. I've already placed an order with Mouser for some plugs and pins.

It came from a 2002 Liberty B4, twin turbo, manual, AUDM. Cluster part number is 85015AE180

1 question I have is about the box which screws onto the back (I unscrewed it in the photo to see what was underneath it), I'm assuming it is for the original alarm or immobiliser? Can I remove it?
What size wire have you guys used for the conversion harness? #18 or #20 gauge?

3081

3082

3083

[Barbbachello]

The box is the inverter for the lighting. Leave it on.

[rkrenicki]

Right, the cluster is not part of the immobilizer on the EU/AU vehicles from that generation.

I did have this part number on my master list of clusters, but I did not have all of the details since I never found photos of one. Can you tell me what the redline is on there? I cant quite make it out in the photo, but I do see that it is a 240km/h scale.

Basically, as far as I can tell, it should just be a 240km/h version of the Japanese 85015AE040. It should share the same pinout as the normal JDM D-type clusters, since I know for sure that the UK and EU H6 clusters have the same pinout.

As for the wire, I generally use 18 gauge since that is what I have on hand, but the power draw on these is quite low.. I am sure that 20 would be fine.

[crjohnson]

Thanks guys, I got some power onto the ignition and ground wires, here's how it looks.

7500RPM redline (sad cause my motor wont even reach that yet)

3084

[rkrenicki]

Yep, that would match what I expected. Basically an 85015AE040 (D-type GT-B/RSK MT cluster) with the 240km/h scale from an 85015AE240 (S401 cluster).

Thanks for the photo, I have updated my spreadsheet with it!

[crjohnson]

No worries, if there's anything else you want me to check, let me Know. It won't be going into the car until my conversion harness is done, about a week or so..

[crjohnson]

All done!

If i ever do it again I reckon i'd just re-pin the original plugs, there's not much room for extra plugs and wires! I ended up cutting out the metal brace behind the cluster to give me more room for wires.

Not sure why but i could not find the wires for the dimmer switch on the turn signal stalk. I ended up just joining the BFM's C2 and C3 illumination wires and grounding the C3 wire.

3085

[rkrenicki]

There is a good amount of room on top of the AC duct, as long as you route your wires behind that metal plate.. Otherwise repinning is a great option.. I've done it on three cars now, the last one I removed the dash harness, stripped it all back and made it look as factory as possible... Although that does require that the dash pad be removed from the car.

Otherwise, looks good! Can't argue with results!

[crjohnson]

Yea I'm happy, cheers for all your info and work you put into this thread.

I do have 1 last annoying thing, the damn adjustable dimmer!

I found a wire (A12 on the non-bfm which comes from the "illumination control module") that goes from .1v to 12 when you adjust the lights on the indicator stalk. But it doesn't seem to do anything for the cluster when connected to C2 or 3.

I can't figure out how the 5v and input wires are actually meant to work.

[jhill1977]

I'm finally getting ready to install my BFM in my 04' LL Bean wagon. I think i'm going to go the route of re-pinning my factory harness as it seems to be the best solution given the limited space behind the factory cluster. That said, I have a question about the C2 & C3 wires. You mentioned twisting them together to get full brightness, which I understand based on previous posts, but then you also mention grounding the C3 wire. What does grounding the C3 wire accomplish? Like yourself, I'm a bit clueless in what to do with the factory dimmer switch. I'm happy to bypass the factory dimming circuit, if it gives me full dimming of the BFM with the headlights on and off, I'm just not really sure where to start in my process.


All done!

If i ever do it again I reckon i'd just re-pin the original plugs, there's not much room for extra plugs and wires! I ended up cutting out the metal brace behind the cluster to give me more room for wires.

Not sure why but i could not find the wires for the dimmer switch on the turn signal stalk. I ended up just joining the BFM's C2 and C3 illumination wires and grounding the C3 wire.

3085

[crjohnson]

Sorry mate but i can't remember what grounding (or not grounding) the C3 wire did. I did end up not joining the C1 and 2 wires though. The dash was too bright at night!

[jhill1977]

If you want to do this, it's probably the easiest thing about putting in the BFM - splice the three wires coming out of the BFM dimmer circuit to the corresponding three wires of the dimmer switch. You have to disconnect the dimmer switch from the regular subaru illumination module so you won't be able to dim any of the other lights anymore.

Honestly, 5 minutes with the wiring diagrams available on this site will show you want to do.

Maybe I'm making this WAY harder than it need to be, but after scanning this entire thread, I still have questions about the BFM dimming functions. I have looked over the wiring diagram for my vehicle, and have found this.

It appears we have a Black wire (PIN10) a blue wire (PIN11) and a green/yellow wire (PIN 12)3094

Are you saying I should splice C2-C4 into PINS10-12 and disconnect the dimmer circuit's factory connection to the lighting control module? Needless to say, I'll need to distinguish the line vs load side of the wiring, which should only take me about 5 seconds with a digital multimeter, but the ground is very obvious.

Wouldn't it just eb

[jhill1977]

Well, I'm glad I'm not the only one left scratching their head regarding the dimmer functionality of the BFM and how to best duplicate that function with our US headlight stalk mounted dimmer switch. Can either the OP or another power user in this thread chime in with advise, tips or better yet pictures of how YOU got the dimming to work??

Thanks...

[jhill1977]

In lieu of hacking up the factory dimmer on the headlight stalk, would it be possible to wire one of these in place, to allow dimming for the BFM backlight feature, both with the headlights on and off ?

https://www.amazon.com/Volt-Dimmer-LED-Halogen-Incandescent/dp/B01C4UBMY6/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=PCA+Electronics&qid=1565861869&s=gateway&sr=8-1

It seems this dimmer would wire up directly to the three wires from the meter harness, and given it's relatively small size, should be pretty easy to hide on the driver's left side, near the fog and cruise control buttons.

[rkrenicki]

I did make up a simple diagram for the dimmer.. let me see if I can find it...

[hupshall]

Yeah, this is pretty easy - you're looking at three pins, which basically are:

BFM C2 Which is +5v - - this goes to B71 Pin 12
BFM C3 Which is Input, this goes to B71, Pin 11
BFM C4 Which is Gnd, this goes to B71, Pin 10

Seriously, don't worry about hacking your dimmer on the stalk, you probably never change it anyway.

[hupshall]

Now, What I did - because I'm an absolute lunatic was make a little arduino board which reads the wiper stalk position and controls a dual digital pot that sends a signal to both the BFM and the Dimmer Control Module.

The board is available here:

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/pn7InHbk


Code here:


#include <SPI.h>
int thermistorPin = 0;
float Vcc = 5;
//float rConstant = 2000;
float thermistorSeriesResistor = 9960.0;
//float buffer = 0;
const int CS = 10;
const float StepResistance = .04033;
int previousStepValue = 0;

void setup() {
pinMode (CS, OUTPUT);
Serial.begin(9600);
SPI.begin();
Vcc = float(readVcc());
Vcc = Vcc / 1000;
}


float Resistance(int pin, float knownResistor)
{
int raw = 0;
float buffer = 0;
float Vout = 0;
float R2 = 0;

raw = analogRead(pin);
if (raw)
{
buffer = raw * Vcc;
Vout = (buffer) / 1023.0;
buffer = (Vcc / Vout) - 1;
R2 = thermistorSeriesResistor * buffer;
R2 = R2 / 1000;
}
return R2;
}

long readVcc() {
// Read 1.1V reference against AVcc
// set the reference to Vcc and the measurement to the internal 1.1V reference
#if defined(__AVR_ATmega32U4__) || defined(__AVR_ATmega1280__) || defined(__AVR_ATmega2560__)
ADMUX = _BV(REFS0) | _BV(MUX4) | _BV(MUX3) | _BV(MUX2) | _BV(MUX1);
#elif defined (__AVR_ATtiny24__) || defined(__AVR_ATtiny44__) || defined(__AVR_ATtiny84__)
ADMUX = _BV(MUX5) | _BV(MUX0);
#elif defined (__AVR_ATtiny25__) || defined(__AVR_ATtiny45__) || defined(__AVR_ATtiny85__)
ADMUX = _BV(MUX3) | _BV(MUX2);
#else
ADMUX = _BV(REFS0) | _BV(MUX3) | _BV(MUX2) | _BV(MUX1);
#endif

delay(2); // Wait for Vref to settle
ADCSRA |= _BV(ADSC); // Start conversion
while (bit_is_set(ADCSRA,ADSC)); // measuring

uint8_t low = ADCL; // must read ADCL first - it then locks ADCH
uint8_t high = ADCH; // unlocks both

long result = (high<<8) | low;

result = 1125300L / result; // Calculate Vcc (in mV); 1125300 = 1.1*1023*1000
return result; // Vcc in millivolts
}

void loop() {
float calculatedResistance = Resistance(thermistorPin, thermistorSeriesResistor);
//Serial.print("Resistance Reading: ");
//Serial.println(calculatedResistance);

int stepValue = 1;
// if the calculated resistance is > 9.5 then just set the resistance to 9.5 (upper limit - 236)
if (calculatedResistance >= 9.5)
{
stepValue = 255;
}
else if (calculatedResistance < 1)
{
stepValue = 23;
}
else
{
// calculate the STEP index is calculatedResistance / 39 which is the step resistance
stepValue = (calculatedResistance / StepResistance) - 1;
}

//Serial.print("What the MCP42010 wiper needs to be set to: ");
//Serial.println(stepValue);

// Don't bother writing to the chip unless the value is different than what was just calculated.
if (previousStepValue != stepValue)
{
previousStepValue = stepValue;
MCP42010Write(stepValue);
}
}

void MCP42010Write(byte value)
{
// Note that the integer vale passed to this subroutine
// is cast to a byte

digitalWrite(CS,LOW);
SPI.transfer(0x13);
//SPI.transfer(B00010001); // This tells the chip to set the pot
SPI.transfer(value); // This tells it the pot position
digitalWrite(CS,HIGH);
}

[rkrenicki]

Wow.. yea, that would work, but seriously overkill for what the job entails. It is seriously just three wires.. hah!

It took me a bit to find it in my various notebooks, but this is the diagram that I drew up for someone last year.
3095

[crjohnson]

HEY rkrenicki thanks for posting that up! Yes its only 3 wires and seems simple, but i'd never and thought to join the 2 wires at the module.

[rkrenicki]

That essentially sets the illumination brightness to max for things like your HVAC and dash switches. If you do not connect the wires together, then all of those will be not lit. I connect those together right at the column.

3104

[rkrenicki]

Pepdog I saw your reply, but the photos disappeared when you deleted the post. If I can be of any help, please feel free to ask.

[Pepdog]

Hey mate,
thank you very much,

Unfortunately the forum was down as i was about to start wiring :cussing:
anyway found a AUDM manual and got my dash working.

Transplanted the unit from a JDM Type C AUTO
into my AUDM B4 MAN BFM
Works amazing and i love it :love:

3300
3301
3302

[Pandamonium004]

Hi guys, been reading through this thread and you all seem like a brainy bunch so would love to try get some assistance, i have a 2000 b4 legacy revision c with the black face cluster, now the other day i noticed that my ring lighting was not working in some areas so went to replace the bulbs. I used some out of another cluster but i think now that they were the wrong sort, i plugged it all back in and could smell a bad burning smell so switched it off and now i have no ring lighting at all, the clock no longer holds memory and resets to 1:00 every time the power is off, the trip meter also resets when the power is off and the door open display no longer works... Does anyone have anything i could try to attempt to fix it, i suspect i need to replace something on the pcb but im not sure what to look at or for... Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks! 😊

[Barbbachello]

Sounds like youve fried the constant power source.

If you have a spare cluster id swap that in

[Pandamonium004]

Yeah that was my next plan, was just hoping I could maybe replace whatever I fried to save some money and keep the same kms etc, but it might be too far gone I dont know lol. Thanks for the reply! :)

[rkrenicki]

Yep, without seeing some high-resolution pictures of both sides of the board, it would be hard to say what went for sure.. but if could be repairable if it were just a burned up trace. Perhaps you can find someone local with some electronics experience who can jumper out any burned traces.

[Pandamonium004]

Yeah when it happened I took it out and had a good look over the pcb but couldnt see any visual damage, traces looked okay, all the caps etc looked fine with no bulging or leaks. I suspect maybe a transistor or resistor issue maybe? Or any of the other little ones (not quite sure what those are called) But I'm not 100% sure on how to test them... I could pull it back out and grab some photos, but its not sounding too promising lol

[Pandamonium004]

**Update** all is fixed now, it turned out to be a fuse on the pcb, it looked like a capacitor and is orange in colour. Since it looked like a capacitor I never tested it previously, but once I did, it failed a continuity test. Desoldered it and replaced it and now everything is back to normal! :)

[motorshed]

I'm really impressed by the skill level and workload that's gone into these mods, very interesting reading, thanks for posting it up. Have to say, a lot of it goes over my head as electronics aren't my strong point.
I'm having trouble with my car, it had a BFM from the factory, a C type I believe. Anyway the cluster melted itself around the larger A plug/socket and now it doesn't work anymore. I have repaired the loom and plug but can't find a replacement cluster anywhere. All the ones I can find are type D. I have been sent a type D one in error and have bought a non BFM unit to see if it worked so now have quite a collection but still can't drive my car!
Does anyone have any ideas,either where I could find a type C cluster or if it's possible to modify the wiring for a type D to work? Or is it easy to wire up the non Bfm to get me back on the road? The wiring diagram I have doesn't show pin outs for the turbo non Bfm. . . .
My burnt unit is part no 85015AE020, it's a manual car but I believe a type A,B or C cluster from an auto would also work .
Any advice/ pointers very welcome
Thanks Joe

[rami]

Hi all an awesome job you have don all, i'm doing the same convertion on my legacy 2002 4cyl but i have a problem with the connection of the 3 illumination wires the 5v one and the ground and the input do thy have any thing to do with the halo lights blinking.
any help and thank you in advance

[rkrenicki]

Hi all an awesome job you have don all, i'm doing the same convertion on my legacy 2002 4cyl but i have a problem with the connection of the 3 illumination wires the 5v one and the ground and the input do thy have any thing to do with the halo lights blinking.
any help and thank you in advance

Blinking halo lights generally indicates that it is missing a ground or a power wire. There are more of these wires on the BFM than the normal cluster, so you need to split/add more.

[rkrenicki]

Does anyone have any ideas,either where I could find a type C cluster or if it's possible to modify the wiring for a type D to work? Or is it easy to wire up the non Bfm to get me back on the road? The wiring diagram I have doesn't show pin outs for the turbo non Bfm. . . .


There are wiring charts at the start of this thread for every type of cluster, so you could do a conversion from the A-C type BFM to D type BFM based on those.

As for where to find one, Yahoo Auctions Japan will likely be your best bet. Use a proxy service to buy from there and have it shipped to yourself.

[rami]

thank you very much and it works as you said.
And it works very nice but another thing happened that the door opening indicators keep telling me that the left front door is open... i tried to open the other doors but it does't indicate thy are opened.

What do think the problem is

thanks

best regards

[jhill1977]

I've got a question or the OP and other's who have already completed this project. For those who used JAE connectors on the "JDM side" of the interface board, what sort of crimping tool did you use for the IL-AG5 connector ends?

I was lucky enough to snag the last prototype board from Hupshall (many thanks), which has the JAE connectors on both ends.

I suppose I COULD splice two ends together that already have the crimped ends to complete my plug to plug ends, but I'd rather NOT have 62 soldered splices to troubleshoot down the line if something goes wrong.

I've read some stuff about the Engineer PA-09 and PA-10 crimping tools, as well as the PAD-01 KIT. I'm just not sure which crimp tool will work for the JAE IL-AG5 ends.3354

A Million Thanks in Advance...

[rkrenicki]

I highly recommend the Engineer PA-09. You can get them on Amazon.co.jp for cheaper than anywhere else, and they will ship worldwide.

https://www.amazon.co.jp/dp/B002AVVO7K

[jhill1977]

Thanks for the recommendation Rkrenicki.

I just ordered the Engineer PA-09 crimp tool from Amazon. I went the US route, as it will be here by the weekend, along with my IL-AG5 pins and 18 pin socket from Mouser.

It's only taken me TWO YEARS, but I can FINALLY see the finish line for this project.

[jhill1977]

Well, I've got my adapter board all soldered and my adapter harnesses fully assembled and tested. My cluster will be installed tomorrow...wish me luck.33573358

[rkrenicki]

If anyone else is looking for one of the UK market 85015AE110 clusters.. I just stuck the one from my "RS30" project up on eBay. This does include my PCB adapter too.

I am open to some reasonable offers, and I am more apt to accept it if it is done outside of eBay and do not have to pay their fees. You can PM me here, or message me on facebook.

URL Expired

[Adro92]

Thanks to this awesome thread I was able to do this in my 2002 liberty RX. Managed to pickup some white LED's to make the rings look nice. If i was to do this again I would have extended the wires as it does become a tight fit once you add on more wires.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2023/07/vfEhfNfh-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2023/07/dzah0Jwh-1.jpg

[thwipp]

Started my harness build. Talk about tedious.
3999
4000
4001

[thwipp]

rkrenicki just to be sure, what are the proper positions for the door pins? is it just swapping the fronts or all left and rights?

US A7 LF BLU/WHT should go to the JDM BRN/red @ A25?

[rkrenicki]

I labeled the pins for their absolute position rather than "Driver Front"/"Passenger Front", so Left/Right Front is accurate between both charts. Basically: Connect Left to Left and Right to Right, and do not go by color for those.

[thwipp]

I labeled the pins for their absolute position rather than "Driver Front"/"Passenger Front", so Left/Right Front is accurate between both charts. Basically: Connect Left to Left and Right to Right, and do not go by color for those.

thanks, maybe one day ill find a dang car to use this in...still searching!

[thwipp]

rkrenicki I looked but couldn't find anything on the kph converter. Was there any progress on replicating them?

[rkrenicki]

rkrenicki I looked but couldn't find anything on the kph converter. Was there any progress on replicating them?

Not really. I switched to the Dakota Digital SGI product which was far more flexible since it could be adjusted, and I did not do any additional work on the SVASpeedos part. Looks like the newest version is the SGI-100BT.

[thwipp]

Not really. I switched to the Dakota Digital SGI product which was far more flexible since it could be adjusted, and I did not do any additional work on the SVASpeedos part. Looks like the newest version is the SGI-100BT.

oof. i was already unhappy with spending $50 lol.

at least i'm familiar with dakota i suppose, i've installed multiple of their setups over the years so i know its a quality part. i think i have one of their fan controllers in a box somewhere waiting to go into my FC for an electric fan swap.

i picked up an oem dimmer wheel from an older subie to use as a separate dimmer control. i figure its just a pot and would work, will report back here on that one.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/334107932972

[rkrenicki]

Yea, the new SGI-100BT seems to be quite a leap in price. At the time the SGI-5C could be found for around $50.

As for the dimmer, as long as it is just a plain-jane potentiometer, then it will work just fine. I've used some generic potentiometer in my testing rigs in the past, as it is just looking for a voltage divider.

[thwipp]

so the dimmer switch i bought was for a 2000ish legacy but it's too big for any of the blanks. gonna search for one that fits unless anyone knows off hand what to look for.

[thwipp]

hey rkrenicki ive sent you a couple of pm's. are they not going through?

[rkrenicki]

Sorry, I do not check my PMs very often here anymore. I just replied to the one about the ECU.. I do not see any others from you though?

[thwipp]

i sent one a month or so ago asking if you had the files for the conversion board as i wanted to build myself one, doesn't matter now.