Third Gen Black Faced Meter (BFM) Information - 2015-01-09

[rkrenicki]

After several months of data collection, I have consolidated all of my information into a few "Final" documents covering all variations of the Black Faced Meter. I will leave the historical discussion below for those who are interested in the process, but I am putting the information I have here at the top.

The BFMs basically fall into a couple of categories. This is the list of the overall categories and the part numbers that I have confirmed for them.



A/B Type Automatic Transmission 85015AE010
C Type Manual Transmission 85015AE020
C Type Sportshift Transmission 85015AE030
C Type Automatic Transmission 85015AE220
D Type Manual Transmission 85015AE040, 85015AE260
D Type Automatic Transmission 85015AE070, 85015AE210, 85015AE270
D Type Sportshift Transmission 85015AE050, 85015AE060
D Type Automatic Transmission for H6 85015AE080, 85015AE090
D Type Automatic Transmission for H6 (UK Market) 85015AE110, 85015AE111 (counts in Miles and km/h)
D Type Automatic Transmission for H6 (LHD Market) 85015AE100 (counts in km/h, but is shaped for LHD)
D Type Manual Transmission STI ST8500066030, 85015AE240 (S401 version)
D Type Automatic Transmission STI ST8500066040
D Type Sportshift Transmission STI ST8500066050

This is not a complete list, there are other part numbers for D-type but I have not yet confirmed them all.

Between the various categories, there are two "versions", A~C type and D type. All A~C type clusters share the same wiring, and all D type clusters share as well. Other than the wiring differences between the types, there are differences with the face as well.

The A~C type has one resettable Trip meter and is shared with the Odometer on the left side of the cluster.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/09/IMAG0074-1.jpg

The D type has two resettable Trip meters and they are separate from the Odometer on the right side of the cluster.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/09/IMAG0010-1.jpg

Both types feature a clock, however the position of it is on the Right for A~C type, and on the left for the D type. No BFM cluster has an ambient temperature display, so you will lose that function unless you have an H6 car.

These are the final pinouts for each type of BFM.

A~C Types:
36

D Type:
38

All USDM/CDM cars share the same wiring.
40


For those who are interested in using, or are changing from a JDM Non-Black face meter, these are the pinouts for those:

A~C Type, Non-BFM:
37

D Type, Non-BFM:
39


The connectors are available within the US and Canada from Mouser Electronics. All three sockets needed and all four plugs needed are available from them. To build an adapter, you will need the 30, 16, and 14 pin sockets for the US side, and 30, 16, and 14 or 18 pin plug for the Japanese side. A~C types need the 14 pin plug for its C connector, and the D type needs the 18 pin plug.



30 pin plug: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/JAE ... UwjrUHA%3d (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/JAE-Electronics/IL-AG5-30S-D3C1/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs7eK6h2EBtKoPRRAu%252b9eOY6RD4UwjrUHA%3d)
16 pin plug: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/JAE ... 52bQ%3d%3d (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/JAE-Electronics/IL-AG5-16S-D3C1-A/?qs=%2fha2pyFadui7CZriEK1CcqTD1K5yKBBlPyXOsEHLzYZAOKM8cDJv%252bQ%3d%3d)
18 pin plug: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/JAE ... RyHA%3d%3d (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/JAE-Electronics/IL-AG5-18S-D3C1/?qs=%2fha2pyFadui7CZriEK1CcjhI5KTsxFvDwBXH1W0UbWpKQdf1JWRyHA%3d%3d)
14 pin plug: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/JAE ... kOMg%3d%3d (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/JAE-Electronics/IL-AG5-14S-D3C1-A/?qs=%2fha2pyFadui7CZriEK1CcpSyGEtHG%252b3aNdpUVMkZvA4Y1edsEakOMg%3d%3d)

Pins for the above plugs: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDet ... G5-C1-5000 (http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=IL-AG5-C1-5000virtualkey65610000virtualkey656-IL-AG5-C1-5000)


30 pin Socket: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDet ... 5-30P-D3L2 (http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=IL-AG5-30P-D3L2virtualkey65610000virtualkey656-IL-AG5-30P-D3L2)
16 pin Socket: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDet ... G516PD3L2A (http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=IL-AG5-16P-D3L2-Avirtualkey65610000virtualkey656-ILAG516PD3L2A)
14 pin Socket: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDet ... G514PD3L2A (http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=IL-AG5-14P-D3L2-Avirtualkey65610000virtualkey656-ILAG514PD3L2A)



There are also a few special versions of the black faced cluster. There are the D type STI meters (240km max speed), and a few different standard clusters modified by Tommy Kaira with a Digital Speedometer module.

This is a D-type STI meter:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/09/IMG_20130808_092151_zps96b615c9-1.jpg

This is a C-type 85015AE020 cluster modified by Tommy Kaira:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/09/IMG_20130516_123444_404_zps35890ed1-1.jpg

This is a D-type UK Market H6 cluster, which counts in Miles, with a secondary km/h scale:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/09/IMG_20150103_122730_zpshhxf7nui-1.jpg

All of these special clusters share the same pinouts as their "normal" BFM brothers, so they do not need any additional information here.

===============================================================================================================================
I have a 2004 Outback H6 Sedan without VDC that I have been slowly doing various modifications to. Over this past weekend, I planned out and installed a JDM BFM cluster. I decided to make an adapter harness, so that I can put the original cluster back in if the need ever came up.

My car came stock with the 85014AE84A cluster, which is a fairly specific cluster for this model. I bought a 85015AE030 cluster that apparently came from a 2000 Legacy GT-B E-tune. This past saturday I visited a local junkyard to grab another 14AE84A they had on a shelf, and as much of the wiring harness as I could get out of a wrecked 2002 Legacy. I would use the cluster for its connectors as well as any bulbs and as a guinea pig for odometer adjustment. The BFM itself came with a small bit of the harness attached, but the wires were too short to do anything with, so I moved the wires around on the Legacy harness to match the JDM colors. This is what I ended up with..

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/09/IMAG0061-1.jpg

After carefully testing each and every pin on the BFM, I mapped out what their functions and came up with this chart:

*Removed for update above*

This was followed by mapping out the wiring for the USDM cluster, which is as such:

*Removed for update above*


On Sunday, I began constructing the harness and I implemented a speedometer converter to bring the VSS signal down to have the km/h Speedometer read in MPH instead. This would ensure that the odometer would also register miles. I did not connect anything to the Illumination control, as I figured I would just rely on the headlight dimming for brightness control, but I may go back and put that in as it seems to dim on its own after a few minutes when those inputs are left floating. After a few hours, the harness was complete:

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/09/IMAG0065-1.jpg

After fitting the harness and taping it up for neatness, it seems to fit quite well.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/09/IMAG0068-1.jpg

I removed a portion of the plastic behind the cluster so that the CCFL inverter would fit properly, and attached the adapter harness. In the end, I did not use this hole in the metal support as it was pinching some of the 'B' connector wires, so they are instead just routed behind the metal brace now.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/09/IMAG0069-1.jpg

On the first try, everything looked great, the PRND321 and gauges all work fine, I found out there are some burnt out bulbs in the Halos which I will correct tomorrow. This was before I reprogrammed the EEPROM to reflect the correct mileage, the cluster only had just shy of 90,000 kms on it.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/09/IMAG0071-1.jpg

After re-programming the cluster, I decided to do some before and after shots. First, I replaced the original cluster and these is what it looks like:

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/09/8020139799_84bcceea6c_ojpeg-1.jpg

This is the BFM with the car off:

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/09/8020143788_9bbd894df9_ojpeg-1.jpg

And finally, the BFM fully assembled and powered on!

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/09/8020139965_84e03f9439_ojpeg-1.jpg


In the end, I am extremely happy. As you can see from the final picture, the Halo around the temp gauge is out, but I will sort that out shortly. The only other major issue I have found is that the tachometer is not accurate. This is due to the cluster coming from a 4 cylinder car, and since mine is a 6 cylinder, it shows that my RPMs are about 33% higher than they actually are. This is a minor annoyance since it is an automatic transmission car anyways.

[Huffer]

Good lord. This thread is full of win!

How did you reprogram the EEPROM?

[rkrenicki]

Well, I have an EEPROM programmer that I used to use for making my own Super Nintendo games.. I desoldered the EEPROM from the board, read it back, altered the values and wrote it back to the chip.

There are websites around the internets that explain the algorithm and the checksums to program it correctly. I was able to have it read within 3 miles of the actual mileage which is good enough for me!

[hansvonaxion]

I think you just made a bunch of new best friends. Awesome work and thanks for all the info!

[rkrenicki]

Unfortunately, the pinout that I have is specific to the '030 cluster and will not help much for other versions, but I wanted to put what I have out there in hopes that it would help someone else.

[amgarrety]

Very nice write-up! I might look to you for help when I decide I want to wire mine up. My main concern is reprogramming my mileage, and of course figuring out the japanese pin-out. But I'm sure I can figure it out by screwing around with it for a bit.

[Barbbachello]

Ive seen complex mods and builds but this is a whole other level. Very impressive

[Yamazaki]

Unfortunately, the pinout that I have is specific to the '030 cluster and will not help much for other versions, but I wanted to put what I have out there in hopes that it would help someone else.
This is true. The '02 GT30 cluster I have (15AE090) has a different wiring layout. But the sportshift cluster is VERY common and this should help a lot of people.

[rkrenicki]

That is the cluster that I would love to have (The GT30 one), as the tachometer would be accurate, but unfortunately my choices were limited to what was available on eBay and funds available.

Today, I ran by one of my local dealers with one of the Halo bulbs in hand to see if they can match it up with something there. The closest one looked more like a type 74 bulb in a brown socket, but they wanted $45 for it.. yes, for one little light bulb..

In the end, I am extremely happy with the cluster even with the inaccurate tachometer, and once I source some new halo bulbs, I will post on here what I find.

[amgarrety]

Just by comparing your two pinouts, it appears that even though the pinouts are different between countries, the wire colors are universal (except for the right front door ajar). So given you have the stock wiring for the BFM, wiring should be as easy as matching the wires up color-by-color.

Also, check out superbrightleds.com and look into converting to all LED in your cluster. Much better light output and longer life, not to mention different colors, and cheaper per bulb than $45. As far as I can tell from looking at the bulbs, it looks like they are the same bulbs that illuminate the USDM cluster.

[rkrenicki]

Hah, I actually just responded to your PM with basically that information. I believe the reversal of the Brown-Red and Yellow-Red has to do with the difference in Driver Position in Japan. I would be willing to bet that they are labeled as "Driver Front" and "Passenger Front" instead of Left and Right.

I had the thought of using LEDs, but I have had back luck with them in the past as they tend to flicker or outright fail after a few months. The Halo bulbs do not match anything on my USDM cluster, but I am still researching alternatives.

[rkrenicki]

So, the 2723 bulb is the correct type for the Halo's. I originally bought some 24's, but they are too wide for the base. The 2723 type is a slightly different shape, but it lights up the halos to about the same brightness as the stock bulbs. I replaced all 6 just so that I do not have to worry about them again in the future.

The bulbs can be found here: http://www.bulbtown.com/2723_MINIATURE_ ... p/2723.htm (http://www.bulbtown.com/2723_MINIATURE_BULB_GLASS_WEDGE_BASE_p/2723.htm)

This is the new and old side by side with the blue condom removed so you can see the shape difference.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/09/8026597524_ac4ceb70a8_ojpeg-1.jpg

This is the new, old with no condom, and old with it side by side in their holders.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/09/8026598873_c6f85134ea_ojpeg-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/09/IMAG0074-1.jpg

I was unaware that the fuel gauge halo will blink when you are low on gas.. that was pretty slick!

[amgarrety]

I just went through my 020 pin by pin, and found out that just about everything was the same as your pinout. All of my indicator lights were the same, the only things I couldn't test were things like the fuel gauge, the speed, tach, door ajar indicators, and anything with the word "illumination" in front of it. Of course I couldn't test things like sportshift or the automatic gear tree. In general, the B and C plugs were pretty much spot on, and I assume the A plug will work once everything is hooked up properly.

One small difference I did notice when checking my pins, on the C connector, when you have 12V going to the ignition pin (C13) and have ground going to pin C12, it makes a soft buzzing noise. Not really a unwanted noise, but instead something that sounds like it is to warn you of something.

Also, on the A pin, hooking up 12V to A27 and hooking ground to any door ajar pin around it causes the board to fry. I had a lot of smoke. All lights still work though, so here's to hoping I didn't mess anything up too bad.....

[rkrenicki]

well, smoke is never a good thing.. A27 for me was a battery indicator, but it was the opposite polarity for me which was unusual. I figure it is probably a voltage detection circuit so that if that input is low or high that the battery light will light up. The only reason that I am not that sure about it is that the black-white wires (of which there are two) on the B connector both illuminate the battery light and are Ground active.

The CCFL inverter will buzz slightly, its part of the nature of CCFL since it requires high voltage AC to fire up that backlight, is that what you were hearing?

I would probably take a good close look at all of the traces on the circuit board of your cluster to see if any of them burnt up. If so, it may be repairable..

[amgarrety]

I'll get a video of the sound later so you can hear. It's definitely not related to the back light, it is a sound my girlfriend was able to hear from the next room over.

Also, I wasn't able to get that backlight to light up just by hooking it directly to a battery. Bad or normal? I figured I just needed more than two wires to light it up. Same goes for the halos and the mileage/time displays.

I'll take a look when I get home to see what I fried. It appears to have nothing to do with any lights (even though it seemed to be frying around the VDC light), so I'll take a look at the front and maybe grab a nice high res picture of what I find.

[rkrenicki]

The backlight comes on when the Battery constant (Blue-Red A8) and the Ignition (Green-white A9) are connected to 12v, while both of the Grounds (black A18 and B7) are connected to ground. It will start its light up sequence, which is the halos and needles first and then the backlight itself after a second or two.

If only one ground is connected, the cluster will stutter and flash.

There is a buzzer on the cluster that I did not figure out how to activate, perhaps you found some combination that was kicking that on?

[rkrenicki]

Oops, I hit quote instead of edit.

[amgarrety]

The buzzer came on for me just by sending 12V to C13 (ignition) and ground to C12 (not designated on your pin out). Like I said, I'll get a video just to make sure it's the sound you're looking for. I'll also try lighting the cluster up.

[rkrenicki]

Keep in mind that I know absolutely nothing about the 020 cluster, so I cannot say that those are the correct pins for you.

[Dead91silvia]

Ok, that is pretty bad ass! You totally lost me on the when you got into the tech stuff, but this is truly cool!

[rkrenicki]

Oh, I forgot to mention, I believe if you ground the fuel gauge pin, the gauge will slowly climb its way to a full tank. It was either ground or 12v, I cant recall.. but ground wont kill anything if you try that first.

[amgarrety]

My buzzer sound:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLChGj5j9GY

AND!

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/09/8026885237_3c71bd6cb3_z-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/09/8026884914_c1744c2a83_z-1.jpg

I think the only difference between the 020 and the 030 is legitimately the difference between 5MT and 4EAT, which is very nice.


All displays work correctly (I know it doesn't look like it in the first picture, but the ODO works and the time reads 1:00). It comes on in stages as well, halos first, then needles, then backlight. My two small halos were working, but now aren't. It was also blinking because of low gas. Thats freaking cool.

[rkrenicki]

Well... that is absolutely the beeper on the cluster. I guess for things like a seatbelt reminder chime. I would have thought that I had checked that pin, but I guess its possible I skipped it by accident.

As for your halo's, I cant think of a reason why they would go out on their own.. but I guess it wouldnt hurt to replace the bulbs while you have it all out.

Ive been thinking more and more about my Tachometer issue.. and I think it may be software related. I cannot imagine that Subaru designed multiple tachometer circuits for the two motor types.. it is much more likely that there is either a resistor or jumper selecting which signal type, or some sort of flag in the EEPROM telling the microcontroller on the cluster what engine type it is...

I think I am going to try to get my hands on as many different BFMs as I can to map them all out, and dump the EEPROMs to look for differences.

Oh, and are you using a car battery to do these tests? I would be extra careful as that has enough amperage behind it to do some serious damage.. I used a small 12v drill battery that was about the size of a pack of cards for my tests.

[amgarrety]

I got them working again. I think its just a bad connection.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/09/8027134704_60615c71a9_z-1.jpg


Yeah I was using a car battery, unfortunately thats the only thing I had. The good news is I practically mirrored your results, so now I don't need to test anymore, I just have to get the male plugs and make my harness.

[rkrenicki]

As I mentioned in that PM, I will work up a HOWTO on moving pins around on those connectors too, as that was a good portion of my saturday morning trying to figure that out. Might as well have others benefit from that minor frustration.

When you get a moment, do you mind checking to see if you have the same VDC, * Hold, DIFF LOCK, and Steering lights? I am putting together a preliminary pinout for the 020 based on your information that it is the same but missing the PRND321 and Sportshift wires.

[amgarrety]

I have all of those, but only VDC has a light installed behind it. There are no lights installed behind *Hold, Diff lock, or steering.

[rkrenicki]

Okay great, I updated my spreadsheet to reflect that. I took the bulbs out of those locations so that I have good spares on my shelf for the lights that I do actually use.

[Yamazaki]

I'll post up the map for the 090 (H6) cluster when I'm done installing it. For some reason, I've looked through every page of the factory wiring manuals and a few of the wires are never mentioned....
I even went back to previous years to see if I could learn anything, but they have some different colors and different places. That's why the year is important too, not just the vehicle model.

[amgarrety]

I lied, I have a light behind steering.

I don't have light behind Diff Lock, * Hold, or Power.

I have 3 other light holes open with no corresponding symbol on the faceplace. According to the 040, one of them looks like it would light up an engine symbol (a separate check engine light in addition to the check engine text).

elislider has the 040 cluster, and its faceplate is drastically different than mine (in terms of symbol locations). Here is a picture he gave me awhile back:

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/08/876d73f0fd7665683e80d049345af175jpgid211-1.jpg

[Yamazaki]

elislider has the 040 cluster, and its faceplate is drastically different than mine (in terms of symbol locations). Here is a picture he gave me awhile back:
That's because you have a year older than his (you have an '00, he has a '01-'02), even though it's from the same model. That's what I meant by the years being different too.

So rkrenicki mapped out the '00 SS-4EAT. Other things may be similar, but shouldn't be exactly the same.

[Yamazaki]

Just for kicks, here's a list of the Japanese combination meters for the BE/BH:

12AE001
12AE100
12AE110
12AE010
12AE020
12AE040
12AE041
12AE050
12AE051
12AE060
12AE070
12AE090
13AE010
13AE030
13AE040
15AE010
15AE020
15AE030
15AE040
15AE050
15AE060
15AE070
15AE080
15AE090
15AE270

There are probably more than that too. I just skimmed through and I tend to miss things when I do that. And these aren't counting the two STI gauges from the catalogues.

[rkrenicki]

Well from my understanding the 12* are like the USDM ones, and the 13* are the white faced 300km/h ones, and the 15* are the BFMs, correct?

[Yamazaki]

Well from my understanding the 12* are like the USDM ones, and the 13* are the white faced 300km/h ones, and the 15* are the BFMs, correct?
No. Some of the 12s and 13s are also BFMs. None of them are 300km ones. That's the A~C type STI gauge.

[rkrenicki]

Well, that certainly complicates things, hah.

[Yamazaki]

What's funny is, in '98 and '99 only the A/T got the BFM. And only the turbo models. The M/T didn't get it until '00.

There's all sorts of craziness going on. I can't figure out any particular pattern.

[rkrenicki]

I found a guy who did this conversion in Japan for his legacy, and his website has the pinout for the 050 cluster! Google Chrome seems to translate it well enough, so I will take that and make up a new spreadsheet for it as well.

It also explained the dimming circuit a bit.. even with the horrible Google translate, I think I have the jist of it. I am going to go try a few things with mine to see what I can do with the dimming control.

[rkrenicki]

So, the dimming works pretty simply, it uses a standard voltage divider in the stalk.

C2 spits out 5v, and C4 is ground. C3 is an input that depending on the voltage coming back is the brightness.. the closer to 5v, the brighter. If you were to jumper C2 to C3, it would be at full brightness all of the time.

If you leave it all floating, it is not quite full dark, but pretty close to it. I did a quick test with a 100 kiloohm potentiometer connecting C2 and C4 to the end points and C3 on the variable tap. I think for me personally, setting it to about 66% brightness would be a good setting, I will do this with a 10k and 22k resistor and put those directly on the harness connectors so that it is always that setting.

[rkrenicki]

Here is a nice little piece of information... It turns out that Mouser Electronics sells the connectors used on these clusters.. so we would no longer need to destroy the harness out of another car..

30 pin: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/JAE ... UwjrUHA%3d (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/JAE-Electronics/IL-AG5-30S-D3C1/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs7eK6h2EBtKoPRRAu%252b9eOY6RD4UwjrUHA%3d)
16 pin: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/JAE ... 52bQ%3d%3d (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/JAE-Electronics/IL-AG5-16S-D3C1-A/?qs=%2fha2pyFadui7CZriEK1CcqTD1K5yKBBlPyXOsEHLzYZAOKM8cDJv%252bQ%3d%3d)
18 pin: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/JAE ... RyHA%3d%3d (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/JAE-Electronics/IL-AG5-18S-D3C1/?qs=%2fha2pyFadui7CZriEK1CcjhI5KTsxFvDwBXH1W0UbWpKQdf1JWRyHA%3d%3d)
14 pin: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/JAE ... kOMg%3d%3d (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/JAE-Electronics/IL-AG5-14S-D3C1-A/?qs=%2fha2pyFadui7CZriEK1CcpSyGEtHG%252b3aNdpUVMkZvA4Y1edsEakOMg%3d%3d)

Pins: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDet ... G5-C1-5000 (http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=IL-AG5-C1-5000virtualkey65610000virtualkey656-IL-AG5-C1-5000)

As for the sockets, for some reason they only have the 14pin socket available.. They have plenty of other configurations, but no 30, 16, or 18 pin versions, but I did shoot an email to Mouser to see if they are planning on carrying them. I am also looking at other vendors as well and I will update this when I find more information.

EDIT: I found the sockets, all but the 30 are a "stocked but backordered" item. The 30pin is "non stocked" but orderable.

30 pin: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDet ... 5-30P-D3L2 (http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=IL-AG5-30P-D3L2virtualkey65610000virtualkey656-IL-AG5-30P-D3L2)
16 pin: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDet ... G516PD3L2A (http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=IL-AG5-16P-D3L2-Avirtualkey65610000virtualkey656-ILAG516PD3L2A)
14 pin: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDet ... G514PD3L2A (http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=IL-AG5-14P-D3L2-Avirtualkey65610000virtualkey656-ILAG514PD3L2A)

[amgarrety]

Here is a nice little piece of information... It turns out that Mouser Electronics sells the connectors used on these clusters.. so we would no longer need to destroy the harness out of another car..

30 pin: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/JAE ... UwjrUHA%3d (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/JAE-Electronics/IL-AG5-30S-D3C1/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs7eK6h2EBtKoPRRAu%252b9eOY6RD4UwjrUHA%3d)
16 pin: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/JAE ... 52bQ%3d%3d (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/JAE-Electronics/IL-AG5-16S-D3C1-A/?qs=%2fha2pyFadui7CZriEK1CcqTD1K5yKBBlPyXOsEHLzYZAOKM8cDJv%252bQ%3d%3d)
18 pin: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/JAE ... RyHA%3d%3d (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/JAE-Electronics/IL-AG5-18S-D3C1/?qs=%2fha2pyFadui7CZriEK1CcjhI5KTsxFvDwBXH1W0UbWpKQdf1JWRyHA%3d%3d)
14 pin: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/JAE ... kOMg%3d%3d (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/JAE-Electronics/IL-AG5-14S-D3C1-A/?qs=%2fha2pyFadui7CZriEK1CcpSyGEtHG%252b3aNdpUVMkZvA4Y1edsEakOMg%3d%3d)

Pins: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/JAE ... GBljikw%3d (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/JAE-Electronics/IL-AG5-PC1-5000/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs7eK6h2EBtKkore6XPqIEzYx8dGBljikw%3d)

As for the sockets, for some reason they only have the 14pin socket available.. They have plenty of other configurations, but no 30, 16, or 18 pin versions, but I did shoot an email to Mouser to see if they are planning on carrying them. I am also looking at other vendors as well and I will update this when I find more information.

You're my new favorite person.

The only downside to this path is the lack of factory colored wire.

[Yamazaki]

Why not tie the Japanese dimmer to the US dimmer? The H6 has a cluster brightness adjustment on the headlight/turn signal stalk... I'm guessing the regular Legacy GT does too.

[amgarrety]

I'm guessing the regular Legacy GT does too.

Mine does, and its the most basic legacy model.

[Yamazaki]

Mine does, and its the most basic legacy model.
Then there should be corresponding wires for that. The BFM cluster has a dimmer for all the time (not just when the lights are on). Hmm, maybe I should take out the S401's cluster and take a look at it. The cluster itself is completely different of course, but that part should be the same...

[rkrenicki]

It does, but I am not so keen on hacking up the multifunction switch.. I know, I know.. I've hacked up much more than that, but... I am really trying not to hack up any of the stock wiring or parts.

As for the connectors, I agree that the original colors would be nice, but then again if you are careful to do one wire at a time, and you can cut the wire to any length you need, so the harness could be quite a bit neater than the one I ended up with.

[Yamazaki]

I went to a local junkyard and cut out the wires connecting to the cluster. I still have a bunch left over (I also grabbed a full set from a guy parting out his Legacy GT).

[rkrenicki]

Unfortunately, most of the junkyards in my neck of the woods won't let you muck around in a car and pull your own stuff. I lucked out with one yard in northern Rhode Island where I bought the 84A cluster that I hacked up, they let me play around in a 2002 Legacy Wagon for a bit which is where I got my harness connectors from.

I think the only reason they let me on the lot by myself was that they were really light staffed that day.

[rkrenicki]

Well, I have decided to go ahead and hack up the MFS, as it seems that they are quite cheap at local yards if I decide to replace it. I will document that portion as I do the modification.

[rkrenicki]

I found the sockets on Mouser.com as well with the exception of the 18 pin version. I ordered 2 of each of the sockets and plugs and 50 contacts, the order totaled to just under $28 with shipping for it all.

[amgarrety]

I found the sockets on Mouser.com as well with the exception of the 18 pin version. I ordered 2 of each of the sockets and plugs and 50 contacts, the order totaled to just under $28 with shipping for it all.

For what? Don't you already have everything hooked up?

[rkrenicki]

I am going to redo it a little neater.. I was limited to the amount of wire that I had. Some of the wires are quite tight back there, and I am worried that over time they may pull out of the sockets and short with something.

[rkrenicki]

So, as promised I will detail the dimming connections. Unfortunately, the documentation off the internet did not jive with what I was remembering from when I wired it up, so I pulled it out of the dash again tonight to verify it. It is a good thing too, because the parking light indicator burnt out the day after I put it in so I replaced that while I was in there.

I also decided to connect the "Power" indicator to the Cruise Set circuit, that way I have some sort of dash indicator for my cruise system again. I choose "Power" because it is green and sort of implies that while cruise is on.. it is "under power".

Okay, but enough about that.. on to dimming. I originally based my information off of that found on azawd.org, but I found that to be backwards. There was a japanese fellow that did this same conversion using the service manuals as a reference with an 050 cluster, that found the same problem.

On the multifunction stalk, there are 6 wires that come from the stalk and bridge to the connector, they are Black, Green, Brown, Red, Yellow, and White, in that order. The ones that we care about are the Black, Green, and Brown lines. Tap into these however you want.. I personally soldered 3 wires into one of the openings leading to the connectors, I felt that this was a good place to not interfere with the operation of the stalk and to not have to cut into the cars harness. This is a photo showing the stalk reassembled with my three-conductor cable leading out of it.

http://krenicki.com/ForumPictures/Technical/BFM-Adapters/2012-09-27_15-26-48_29-1.jpg

As noted on the photo, the Brown line connects to C2, Green to C3, and Black to C4. The document on azawd has the Brown and Black reversed, which causes the dimming function to be backwards where it is full bright when set to full dim.

[amgarrety]

I also decided to connect the "Power" indicator to the Cruise Set circuit, that way I have some sort of dash indicator for my cruise system again. I choose "Power" because it is green and sort of infers that while cruise is on.. it is "under power".

I was also thinking of doing that, but I was between Power and Steering, even though cruise control has nothing to do with steering.

Yamazaki - What did you do to get your dimming switch to work without any other modification? Did you hook something else up to C2, C3, and C4?

[Yamazaki]

I also decided to connect the "Power" indicator to the Cruise Set circuit, that way I have some sort of dash indicator for my cruise system again. I choose "Power" because it is green and sort of infers that while cruise is on.. it is "under power".

I was also thinking of doing that, but I was between Power and Steering, even though cruise control has nothing to do with steering.

Yamazaki - What did you do to get your dimming switch to work without any other modification? Did you hook something else up to C2, C3, and C4?
No, It seems to work w/out any modifications. I also think I have a cruise control light, because that wasn't one of the two wires I couldn't match up (they are the flashing "Security" light, and the "AT temp oil" light". Everything else matched up). I haven't tried cruise control. yet though. Also, I happened to be in luck. The old mileage was 151779, and the new odometer read 151633 when I put it in.

The bad thing is that I'm getting no power to the tach or engine temp because the needles don't move. This weekend, I'm going to try out the spare gauge set I brought with me and see if it's the cluster that's broken of I messed up somewhere.

[rkrenicki]

Just to be clear, the basic function of "dimming" is controlled by the purple wire, so that when the headlights are on it does dim the lighting, but it is non-adjustable. I believe by default, the voltage on the purple wire is varied depending on the setting on the MFS stalk, but my particular cluster does not seem to respond to voltage differences on that pin. It is either just dimming on, or dimming off.

C2, 3, and 4 control the variable brightness of the backlighting. If you leave them floating, the brightness of the cluster defaults to almost fully dim when purple is active. Since I have the habit of driving around with at least my parking lights on, it made the cluster very difficult to see during the day.

Now that I have these connected up, I leave my dash dimming control on the MFS set to the middle setting, and I can see it very well both with and without the parking lights on.

YamazakiSubaru: The other thing I wonder is, does the dimming control change your brightness also when the parking lights/headlights are off without C2-C4 wired up? I am not really sure how it would get that control without it..

[Yamazaki]

YamazakiSubaru: The other thing I wonder is, does the dimming control change your brightness also when the parking lights/headlights are off without C2-C4 wired up? I am not really sure how it would get that control without it..
No, I can't adjust the brightness if the headlights are off. In the S401, I can adjust it whether the lights are on or off.

[rkrenicki]

It must do a voltage sense on that line. With the three additional lines, it is adjustable properly both with and without the lights on.

[rkrenicki]

So, I am working on sorting all the pinouts that I have for the 050 and 090 meters, and I noticed that the 090 has C2 and C4 reversed in colors..

That explains why my dimming control was backwards from the azawd documentation, as it looks like the +12v and gnd wires are reversed on the 020 and 030 compared to the 090. I do not have the color codes for the 050 so I am not sure which one it matches up with.

[rkrenicki]

Okay, so as promised, here is the procedure to remove the pins on the harness connectors.

Pictured here is the 14 pin "C" connector that came with my BFM, I will use this for the tutorial.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/10/20121010_105758_880-1.jpg

First, there are comb-like clips that rotate out of the back of the connector on each of the long sides, use a small flathead screwdriver, and pry them away. The back side will come away before the front edges will.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/10/20121010_105857_650-1.jpg

There is one of these on each side, this photo shows them both open.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/10/20121010_105934_759-1.jpg

Now you are halfway there.. If you look at the end of the connector, there are 4 rows of holes.. the two rows in the middle are the contacts themselves, the outer 2 rows give you access to the retention clips for each connector. Push a thick paperclip or very thin screwdriver into the outer hole that lines up with the wire you are trying to remove, that will release the clips and the wire should pull out.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/10/8078329954_2bd6fda0ac_ojpeg-1.jpg

Even with both clips released, it was still a little tough to pull the pins out.. Don't be prissy with it, give it a tug and it will come out. I was surprised how much pulling it would take and not break.

[rkrenicki]

I ordered a pair of the 18pin connectors from Mouser since the 090 that I have on the way uses that for the "C"... and I realized that I completely ordered the wrong contacts.. I bought the Male Pin contacts, instead of the Female Socket contacts.. the correct contacts are the IL-AG5-C1-5000.. the pins are PC1-5000.. all the difference for one little letter.

[rkrenicki]

Well, my 090 cluster is finally on its way from Japan to the US. I have actual EMS tracking now and everything.. even if it is several days late at this point..

But, bad news is that I just received an email from mouser telling me that the 30pin connector has been delayed and I may not necessarily get all of my connectors by January 30th.

I already have the 18pin here, and the correct contacts will be here tomorrow it looks like, so I may just re-use the harness that I have and do this next week instead of in January/Febuary..

[amgarrety]

At least the USDM part stays the same, so as far as re-pinning goes, you just need to pull the pins out of the male connector and switch them a bit, which is cake. I did that for my driver/passenger door ajar wires and it took me all of 30 seconds.

[rkrenicki]

Assuming everything will reach the way it is... I guess it depends on how motivated I am this weekend to do it. It will be nice to have two trip meters again too, which I found that I actually used often enough to miss it when it was gone.

[rkrenicki]

Looking at my order status on Mouser shows that they now have in stock all of the harness side connectors for these cars. The 30, 18, 16, and 14 pin "Socket Housings" as well as the Socket Contacts.

All of the cluster side connectors are still on backorder, but it looks like their shipment dates got bumped up a few weeks to Jan 1.

[rkrenicki]

As part of the "BFM try 2", I am going to try to reverse engineer these kph/mph adapters.

I have another one in hand, and it is extremely simple.. just one PIC microcontroller, two transistors, a capacitor, and five resistors. Absolutely not worth $50+, as it is only about $4-5 in parts. The hard part is going to be extracting the software off of the controller, but knowing what kind it is and how it is wired up would tell me alot to write my own firmware if necessary.

[amgarrety]

As part of the "BFM try 2", I am going to try to reverse engineer these kph/mph adapters.

I have another one in hand, and it is extremely simple.. just one PIC microcontroller, two transistors, a capacitor, and five resistors. Absolutely not worth $50+, as it is only about $4-5 in parts. The hard part is going to be extracting the software off of the controller, but knowing what kind it is and how it is wired up would tell me alot to write my own firmware if necessary.

I had a really strong feeling it wasn't $50, after seeing that small microcontroller through the heat shrink. I don't have the means to write that code though, nor extract it.

[rkrenicki]

Luckily the programmer that I use for EEPROMs, can also do PICs and some Atmel chips. So, trying to read it isnt that hard, assuming that they did not protect the chip from being read back. I will give it a try over the weekend.

[rkrenicki]

My 090 showed up today, and I noticed that the lights for the Cruise Set, and for FWD were absent.. I am not sure if that is by design, or the prior user removed them.. Luckily, I have a few bulb holders left over from the 030, so I populated them for now.

Next up, testing it out and verifying the pinout that I have.

[rkrenicki]

After those locations were populated, they do indeed work. So does AT Oil Temp, which was missing from my 090 pinout.. it is on B4.

This cluster has been around.. it has over 191,000 kms on it.

[amgarrety]

I don't even have a cruise set light. It's very possible the car you got it from didn't have cruise. As I understand, it wasn't a very common feature in Japan.

[rkrenicki]

Well, I am just happy that it will actually say "cruise" after this is done.. as "power".. while it gets the idea across.. is not the best replacement.

[rkrenicki]

removed.. for now.

[amgarrety]

Are you going to try to replicate them?

[rkrenicki]

That's the idea. There really is no reason for it to be $50, and that's even on the cheap side! Some places charge more like $80-100 for these things.

[amgarrety]

Yeah I know, I jumped on this at the price I found it at, and that's sad.

Just being a business student, I must say this, but make sure you don't get in trouble for copying their code or anything. I don't know what restrictions they have on their products (if any), but stay on the safe side haha

[rkrenicki]

Well, I can write my own code for this. What I am taking from this schematic is that the VSS signal is a series of ground pulses. If I slow down that pulse rate to a ratio of 1:0.621, thats all it needs to do. The more I am looking at this, the less I am convinced that I need to get the code on this chip out.

[amgarrety]

Couldn't you just use resistors?

[rkrenicki]

No, its the pulse rate that needs to change, not the voltage. Basically, for every 50 pulses that comes in, it needs to spit out 31.

Since the pulse rate is fairly high (4104 pulses per mile from what I see on the internets), dropping pulses will only implement negligible needle lag.

I also found a schematic and source code for another mph/kmh adapter, however it is significantly larger and more complex than this design. It implements dip switches for adjustments and test signals. I am sure I can strip down this code to just what is needed instead.

http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 31&t=15639 (http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=15639)

[rkrenicki]

I received the 2723 bulbs today, and finished replacing all of the bulbs in the 090. I took it apart to cover the k in km/h, and to dump the EEPROM for when I need to reprogram it.

Unfortunately, the 090 does not use the same type of EEPROM chip that the 84A, 020, or 030 uses. It uses a SOIC-8 "L56R" instead of a DIP-8 "93C56" chip, the only difference is that it is a surface mount part instead of a through hole part. This is not a big problem as my programer will write these too, however I do not want to pull the chip off now to put it back on, and then take it off when I go to actually program it.

But, I am happy to have a functioning Cruise Light :)

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/11/20121102_181622_714-2.jpg

[amgarrety]

... however I do not want to pull the chip off now to put it back on, and then take it off when I go to actually program it.


Couldn't you place a chip socket on the board? That way you can remove and replace it as much as you want without destroying the contacts. I thought about doing that with my cluster, but I figured I probably wouldn't remove the chip again.

[rkrenicki]

I did on the 030, but those sockets are dirt cheap (about 15 cents or so), but SMD sockets are not cheap or even small.. It may not even fit within the cluster anymore.

It's fine, I will just wait to dump it for when I actually go to reprogram it and do the removal once.

EDIT: Actually, this is an SPI based flash chip.. I might be able to do this with my BusPirate adapter instead without even removing the chip from the cluster.. hmm... some internet browsing is needed for this I think.

[rkrenicki]

Christmas came a little early!

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/11/IMAG0079-1.jpg

[amgarrety]

Nice! I'm guessing you've already started?

[rkrenicki]

No, not yet.. I have something very different planned for these.. but the rest of the parts are not here yet. in fact one of them I need to order which I am going to do very shortly.

But, when I am done, I hope to have a very polished end product, which Yamazaki should be able to benefit from.

[Yamazaki]

Yay!

[rkrenicki]

A little sneak peak at what I just ordered for this project... This is a small portion of the CAD drawings..

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/

I just need to order a few additional parts, and I should have enough parts to make two complete sets of adapters.

[rkrenicki]

My circuit boards finally showed up! This is my final design for a USDM to JDM BFM adapter.

I created a layout for the JAE connectors for FreePCB, and laid out what wires go where. in order to connect to the wires needed for the female connectors, I decided to use DA-15s and DB-25 connectors as they are cheap and plentiful. This also allows the adapter to be reconfigured for any BFM, however the PCB is specific to the H6 version of the USDM car.

I use oshpark.com (Formerly DorkbotPDX PCB service by Laen) for my circuit board fabrication, they do fantastic work and they use this cool purple color for the solder mask. All of his boards are in multiples of three so I now have enough to make an adapter for myself as well as for YamazakiSubaru.

The connectors were ordered from Mouser further up this thread.

But, enough of the talkie-talk.. heres the pictures!

Empty PCB, Top:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/12/IMAG0106-1.jpg

Empty PCB, Bottom:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/12/IMAG0107-1.jpg

Populated with the USDM-side JAE connectors
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/12/IMAG0108-1.jpg

End shot of the JAE connectors:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/12/IMAG0109-1.jpg

Fully assembled, includes DB and DA connectors, and a SVASpeedos.co.uk adapter mounted on the board.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/12/IMAG0110-1.jpg

[rkrenicki]

I still need to finish the wire side from the D-subs to the BFM, but I should be able to get that done tomorrow.

[amgarrety]

Wow that's awesome, I'm really jealous of how neat that is going to look.

[Yamazaki]

That IS awesome! Does that incorporate a kph->mph resistor? Will it fit behind the cluster (it isn't too big)? Oh, I am SOOO excited!

[amgarrety]

That IS awesome! Does that incorporate a kph->mph resistor? Will it fit behind the cluster (it isn't too big)? Oh, I am SOOO excited!


I was wondering that too (about the size of the board).

Yamazaki, that little piece of green circuit board (with RBGY printed below) in between the connectors is the speedo resistor. I think that is really cool that it is all just built in. That really cleans things up. You might have a easily sell-able product here if enough people get their hands on BFMs.

[rkrenicki]

To be honest, it will be a little tight up in the dash.. but I will find a way to make it work. Being that there is room to stash the CCFL inverter up above the ductwork, and this board is shallower than that, it should be okay.

In hindsight, I should have shortened up the board a bit, but that would have made my trace routing a little more complicated.

[rkrenicki]

Some photos of the progress today. I only have the B and C harnesses done, I will tackle the A harness after work tomorrow. In this process, I found an error on my PCB where I forgot to route a line for the second ignition pin on the B connector, however a quick jumper on the underside of the board fixed that for now. Oh well, if thats the only mistake on this board, I am happy with it. I believe on the 030, I do not even have that pin wired as it is, but I am running it for the sake of completion on this.

This is the C harness by itself.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/12/IMAG0114-1.jpg

This is the B and C harnesses connected to the adapter.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/12/IMAG0115-1.jpg

And this is the B and C harnesses connected to the adapter and the 090 cluster.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/12/IMAG0116-1.jpg

[rkrenicki]

In response to amgarrety.. I could design one for your car, but the price for the board using my manufacturer is about $78 for three boards (about $26 per board). He does not offer quantities lower than that as I need to order in multiples of three. That also does not include the connectors or speedometer adapter itself.

I did not mind having three boards made up as I always intended one to go to Yamazaki. If you have some people who might be interested in splitting the cost with you, I could potentially make 3 whole adapters from one order. If that were the case, I would need to get on duplicating that speedo adapter so as to not have such a high cost on those as well. It could also be designed in such a way to be part of the board instead of a daughterboard like it is now.

I could look at other PCB manufacturers who may have a lower cost for a "lower quality" board as well. I only use this guy because he has amazing quality control, thick high quality substrate, lead-free finish, thick purple solder mask, and offers silkscreen on both sides for a "prototyping service", all of which is nearly unheard of for $5/sq in for three copies. This board does not really need all of these features, but instead of messing around with a new manufacturer for a one-off product I just went with the tried and true guy.

The other thing is, I do not have enough information on all of the USDM H4 models to know how interchangable it would be. I know from the information from Yamazaki's 02 H6 VDC that it matches my car with the exception of the VDC that mine lacks. I can make an educated guess that the 03 would probably be the same as well as it is unlikely that they changed it and changed it back.

To sum up, to make just one, assuming the extra boards were just going to sit on a shelf forever.. it would be about $150 (including the cost of the speedo adapter of $50ish). To make two, it ends up costing closer to $110 each, and three would be about $100 each. That is just materials cost, and it would take me a few hours to build each one as well.

[Yamazaki]

The other thing is, I do not have enough information on all of the USDM H4 models to know how interchangable it would be. I know from the information from Yamazaki's 02 H6 VDC that it matches my car with the exception of the VDC that mine lacks. I can make an educated guess that the 03 would probably be the same as well as it is unlikely that they changed it and changed it back.

I have a wiring diagram for the H4 Legacy, but I think you and amgarrety do too.... If not, let me know and I can do up a wiring chart for amgarrety's car like I did for mine.

[rkrenicki]

I think I do have a diagram for a 2002 H4 (I have to check what one it is exactly), but the question I have is any differences across models or other years.

I think we were fortunate that the H6 was identical across (at least our) years, but I doubt that is the case with all of the rest of the models, if there are significant differences, I do not think it would be feasible to design an adapter for each USDM variation.

[rkrenicki]

I keep re-reading my post and it sounds like I am coming up with reasons not to do it. That is really not the case. I would be more than happy to sit down, design, order, and build an adapter for amgarretys car, but I do not know if it would work on any other model or year, so the extra two boards may have a very limited potential buyer pool.

[Yamazaki]

I think a really easy way to tell is to find the part number for the different models. If they're the same number, then it stands to reason that they're the same part.

[02_Legacy]

Just throwing it out there that if you did find out that the same pinout would work across multiple years and it would be economical to build a set of boards I would be interested in getting one. That is based on cost of the board and meter though. about $100 for the board would not be bad, but how much does it cost for these clusters, a quick search on e-bay did not turn up any of them for me.

[rkrenicki]

eBay prices vary wildly. I bought my '030 cluster for about $130 shipped to me from the UK, but that was an amazing price (the cluster was about $45, the rest was shipping). On the US eBay site, I regularly see them for $150-$250 plus shipping.

The '090 cluster I bought from Yahoo Auctions Japan and using a payment and shipping proxy in Tokyo ended up costing me about $130 after my proxys commission and both shipping charges (shipping to him, and then shipping to me).

That being said, my '030 cluster (H4 4EAT cluster) will be for sale here pretty soon, once I have the '090 all ready to go.

Yamazaki: digging around my PMs, I have a part number of 13AE60A that was given to be my amgarrety, but that may have been the donor cluster that he used for the male connectors on his adapter. that may or may not match what originally was in the car.

[02_Legacy]

wow that is not bad at all, I would definitely be in on a group buy for those circuit boards. Would 5mt vs 4eat matter for the boards, I'm assuming that I just would not use the pins relating to the automatic transmission.
Also, this is the lazy side in me lol, do you know what the part number would be for a cluster meant for an H4 5mt?
I'm kinda excited about this now that i found out price of the clusters, I imagined they would be more than that.

Edit: it seems that i remember reading a post by yamazaki a while ago that listed a bunch of part numbers for JDM clusters, but I can't seem to find it. Anyone know where it is?

[amgarrety]

Yamazaki: digging around my PMs, I have a part number of 13AE60A that was given to be my amgarrety, but that may have been the donor cluster that he used for the male connectors on his adapter. that may or may not match what originally was in the car.

That is definitely for the donor cluster. I know as a fact the part number will be different from my stock 5MT cluster because it was 4EAT and had a security light. I'll get you a part number for my stock cluster next time I'm home.

[rkrenicki]

The 5MT and 4EAT should not matter on the board side, as the only real difference is the presence of the PRND321 signals or not. At least that is the only real difference between the 15AE020 and 15AE030 Black faced clusters.

There are two different "revisions" of the BFM, one that has the clock on the right hand side and a single Trip counter, and the newer versions with the clock on the left and two trip counters. I believe that the 98-99 were the single trip, and the 2000-02 were the dual trip, but there may be some crossover in the 1999-2000 years.

This is what I know so far from what I have seen, what pinouts I have found, and from sales on Yahoo Auctions Japan:

85015AE010 - 4EAT H4 Single Trip [BE5/BH5] 7k-redline
85015AE020 - 5MT H4 Single Trip 7k-redline
85015AE030 - 4EAT H4 Single Trip (Sportshift) 7k-redline
85015AE040 - 5MT H4 Dual Trip [RSK] 7.5k-redline
85015AE050 - 4EAT H4 Dual Trip (Sportshift) [BE5/BH5] 7k-redline
85015AE060 - 4EAT H4 Dual Trip 7k-redline
85015AE070 - 4EAT H4 Dual Trip [2001 B4] 6.5k-redline
85015AE080 - Dual Trip [unknown gearbox]
85015AE090 - 4EAT H6 Dual Trip 6.5k-redline
85015AE210 - 4EAT H4 Dual Trip 6.5k-redline
85015AE220 - 4EAT H4
85015AE260 - 5MT H4 Dual Trip 6k-redline
85015AE270 - 4EAT H4 Dual Trip 6k-redline

[Yamazaki]

From what I have, 080 is for the 2.5L, not an H6....

I'll double check your list with what I have and make corrections as I see them. Unfortunately, I have stuff by model code, not trim or description. But I know that a BH9 is 2.5L and that's what got the 080.

[rkrenicki]

From what I have, 080 is for the 2.5L, not an H6....

I'll double check your list with what I have and make corrections as I see them. Unfortunately, I have stuff by model code, not trim or description. But I know that a BH9 is 2.5L and that's what got the 080.

That is possible, my information for that cluster came from a listing on Yahoo Auctions. There was an 080 cluster listed as coming from a BHE a bit ago, but that very possibly was incorrect. I have not seen any additional 080s listed since then. Since I am going by memory only, I took the engine size reference off of my listing.

Right now there are several 010, 040, 050, one 060, one 070, a few 090, one 210 and one 270 listed on there.

[02_Legacy]

Edit: I'll PM you so I don't clutter your thread.

[rkrenicki]

So, some actual progress today. My wife has a double ear infection, so I helped her after I got home from work until she went to sleep. Then I completed the "A" harness and tested the cluster.

The results!
http://krenicki.com/ForumPictures/Technical/BFM-Adapters/IMAG0118.jpg

I also discovered that it will fairly easily fit up behind the metal support back there but it was too dark to get any decent pictures of that. It is tight, and it needs to be assembled while in the car, but it does fit.

I also suddenly remembered that I was going to put cardboard on the bottom of the board to keep it from shorting out.. as I was wiggling it around in there, I hit the ignition line to the body and I released the magical blue smoke. The cluster was not connected when I did this, and it is just one trace on the adapter board which is easily fixable..

Tomorrow, I am going to reprogram the cluster, finish the dimmer wiring, and finally mount the properly working 090 cluster in my car. Yay for an accurate tachometer, two trip meters, and a Cruise Set light!

[Yamazaki]

Looks great!
Also, I forgot if you said that it will be wired so we can do the rear hatch (trunk for us sedan guys) light when we get around to it....

[rkrenicki]

Yep, as far as the adapter is concerned, the trunk line is connected. I just need to find the other end of that wire to see if the existing trunk switch can be wired into it. The only thing I did not wire up on mine was the VDC stuff, but the lines are present on the adapter as well.

Oh, and I took it for a spin around the block (the 1.1 miles on the trip meter there), and at least up to 35mph it seems to be completely accurate with my GPS... which really confuses me after our conversation the other day... I will take it on the highway tomorrow to verify it at higher speeds, but I am perfectly okay if it has suddenly lost that 5% inaccuracy.

[rkrenicki]

Take two!

This time, I taped some cardboard to the bottom!
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/12/IMAG0123-1.jpg

Here is the board in the car, not tucked away for testing. The grey cable going to the left is for the dimmer:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/12/IMAG0124-1.jpg

Here is the board tucked up above the ducting. There is about an inch and a half between the DA and DB connectors and that brace in the middle there.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/12/IMAG0125-1.jpg

The harnesses attached:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/12/IMAG0126-1.jpg

And, the cluster in! Fits just about perfectly, I have to fiddle with the JDM "B" harness to get it to fit a little better, but thats a minor adjustment:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/12/IMAG0127-1.jpg

For Yamazaki, here is the shot of that AT Oil Temp light in the key-on-engine-off mode.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/12/IMAG0128-1.jpg

The only thing I have to figure out right now with the connections is the dimmer.. It is not behaving like I would expect it, or how it behaved with the 030 cluster. I need to pull the multifunction switch out and double check it for any loose connections or whatnot.

Besides that, I still have to reprogram the cluster. I attempted to do it with my Bus Pirate while it was still on the circuit board, but that does not seem to want to work. I guess I will have to pull the chip off the board like I originally thought, and program it directly. That will have to wait until tonight when I get home.

[amgarrety]

Wow that looks so good. I'm very impressed with how that turned out.

[rkrenicki]

I could not be happier with the way it turned out. It has been a long and tedious journey to get to this point, but seeing this all in there makes it all worth it.

The only thing that annoys me with the way it is right now, is that the connectors being brand new are *REALLY* tight. I just about injure myself every time I disconnect the JDM side "A" connector since it has the most contacts. The "B" is not as bad, but still pretty stuck in there.. the "C" comes out fairly easily, since there are only a few contacts in there. I guess that would not be an issue if I was not pulling out the cluster every few hours, hah. Once I am completely done and worked out all of the kinks.. I should "never" have to touch it again.

[chuckthefuk]

rkrenicki = my new electrical hero!!!

have you thought about a type of spray on rubberizer like plastidip? Simple 2 shot spray and all the traces will be insulated and no need for the cardboard.

-Chuck

[rkrenicki]

The traces are not really the problem, but the leads sticking down from the board. I think plastidip would not be resilient enough against vibration against the pins for a long term solution. I actually have a can of conformal coating somewhere that I was going to use for it, but I could not find it anywhere..

The cardboard, while a little ghetto, does work pretty good though!

I am still trying to figure out this dimming problem.. I pulled out the Multifunction switch, and tested what it does with a multimeter and it works as I would expect. I reconnected the MFS to the cluster and now it works fine.. except when I reconnect the car to the MFS.. then it goes all fubar again.

Oh, and yay for accurate tachometers!
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/12/IMAG0129-1.jpg

[rkrenicki]

So, reprogramming the 090 cluster is a pain. Yamazaki, you are very lucky that the one you have is close enough!

Here are the two versions of the EEPROMS, the one on the left is from the 090, and the one on the right is from a 2002 GT.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/12/IMAG0131-1.jpg

After removing the chip from the board, I needed to use an adapter for my programmer.. it is hard to make out, but the tiny eeprom is in the middle there.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/12/IMAG0132-1.jpg

After it was all said and done, it now reads the correct mileage, however it looks like I may have damaged the trip portion of the odometer, as the segments on top, bottom, and the two on the left no longer light up. It looks like my screwdriver might have pinched the ribbon cable and damaged one of the conductors.. I guess I will have to jumper it out at some later time, but I do not want to pull it apart yet again. Even though this should be showing 0.0, it looks like 0.1. All other segments seem to be just fine, so I will live with it for the moment.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/12/IMAG0133-1.jpg

EDIT: well, I decided that its going to bug me in the end, so I bought another 090 cluster for dirt cheap (1480yen, works out to under $20 for the cluster!) so that I can swap around the LCD module. I am sure that I can flip the one with the damaged LCD on eBay for much more than I will end up paying for this replacement.

[rkrenicki]

Well, the other 090 cluster is now on its way, I should have it within a week or so and I will swap in that LCD module right away.

I am trying to decide what to do with the 030. I could either sell it on here with the harness, or on ebay.. or there is another possibility.. I have seen in the past people putting BE/BH clusters into a BG.. I could put it in my BG, but I am a little fuzzy how to make it look good.

I have no question that I can make it work, but looking like it belongs is a completely different ball of wax.

I am also completely baffled by the dimmer controls on this 090. It looks like if I have the cluster connected to the stalk along with the illumination module, then nothing works right anymore. All of the dash illumination goes out, and the cluster is either on full bright, or full dark with no adjustment in-between. It is behaving completely different from the 030.

I am sort of tempted to disconnect the illumination module from the stalk and wire it to full brightness (since I never adjust it for that anyways), and have just the cluster connected to the stalk for adjustability.

[rkrenicki]

After looking at every wiring diagram I can find for the 2000 to 2003 model years.. I have determined that all of USDM cars have the same pinouts regardless of engine type. That is good news for my adapter, as the backside would be the same regardless of model.

I now need to determine how many different pinouts for BFMs exist to see how many combinations would be needed. It has already been determined that the 020 and 030 are identical and that the 050 and 090 are nearly identical to each other. I will see what I can do about getting pinouts for the other types and go from there.

[Yamazaki]

I'll try to help you with that once I get back. I'm at the airport now and am not looking forward to the LONG flight back...

[rkrenicki]

I'll try to help you with that once I get back. I'm at the airport now and am not looking forward to the LONG flight back...

Have a good flight back! :smt023

[02_Legacy]

I'm glad to see a bump to this thread and speak about a board for the H4 Legacy because I just won a 020 BFM on Yahoo Japan for 3000 Yen. I probably won't get it for a while though because now that I know how Yahoo Japan auctions work I'm going to get a few things lol.

[rkrenicki]

I would have cut you a deal on the 030 that I have and I would have included the harness that I made up first! :) Oh well, in the end, we will get it working for you!

[02_Legacy]

I searched a long time for the 020 and I would not have used anything else, having the Auto numbers between the tach and speedo would have annoyed me immensely even if they were not lit up and the 020 has the closest redline to my actual redline.

[rkrenicki]

What is your redline supposed to be?

[02_Legacy]

6.5k

[rkrenicki]

Interesting.. that's odd that I have not seen a 5MT cluster with a redline below 7k yet. I am sure one exists, but I haven't seen it.

In other news, I did find a solution to my dimming issue.. although it did require me to cut some of the cars harness. I am not really sure why the 030 worked perfectly fine, where the 090 would freak out the dimming control module. What I ended up doing was cutting the wires coming into the multifunction switch from the dimming control module, and connecting the Blue and Grey wires directly to each other to have the rest of the dashboard on "full bright". I have just twisted the wires together for now to make sure that it works, but I will solder and heat-shrink this connection in a bit.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/IMAG0017-1.jpg

[rkrenicki]

In my information gathering for BFMs.. I ran into this one on Yahoo Auctions Japan.

http://auctions.c.yimg.jp/f20batchimg.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/users/0/7/3/7/powergroup_osaka-imgbatch_1356083003/600x450-2012122000333.jpg

It's been blinged out! It looks tacky when off in my opinion, but perhaps it looks better when the halos are on?

[rkrenicki]

*Removed for update in first post*

[amgarrety]

So what was the reason for Yama's tach not working? B6 matches on the H4 and H6 clusters, however his tach wasn't responding.

[Yamazaki]

Neither was my fuel gauge. Like I said before, I chalk it up to my sloppy wiring connections.

[rkrenicki]

Holy big picture batman.. sorry.. i did the screenshot with my Retina macbook.. and I forget that it makes massive images.

I am not sure why it wouldnt work, I am building his PCB adapter right now, I just have to solder the wires to the DA and DB connectors and it will be done. I am hoping to get it finished in an hour or so so that I can test it on my car before it gets dark.

[d1giPhux]

Nice thread. You should give some more info about how you pull the harness apart without destroying the plastic and such so that you can re-solder.

[rkrenicki]

I did a write up on how to remove the wires from the JAE connectors back on page 2. It is about 3/4 of the way down.

Unless that is not what you meant?

[rkrenicki]

After seeing the S401's cluster in person, I decided that I really like the red halos and I am trying to figure out what makes them gold on these clusters.

My first attempt to making a red halo did not go so well. I used a red sharpie on the lightpipe for the fuel halo on the spare cluster that I have.. instead of making it red.. it made it pink.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/02/IMAG0177_zpscabac4ef-1.jpg

[Yamazaki]

Y'know, I could just take the cluster out of the S401.... It's not like I haven't ever done that before or that it would take a long time to do. I'll take it out this weekend.

[rkrenicki]

Well, that front plastic where the halos are, is all heat-sealed plastic layers. I cannot get them apart without breaking them, so I figured if I altered the color of the light going into it.. I know I could just put red lights in the sockets, but given the oddness that amgarrety has had with his LEDs, I did not want to have to try to figure out the ghosts in the machine.

I think it may be pink because of all the light I am throwing in there. I am using an LED maglight instead of the normal 2732 bulb...

EDIT: I take it back. I just put it "back together" and fired up the cluster on my bench here, and the red looks pretty good. Not too bad for a mod that just involved a red sharpie marker, heh.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/02/IMAG0178_zps0d2471b9-1.jpg

I will do the rest of the lightpipes and see how it turns out, if this works fairly well, I will just swap in this backing plate into the cluster in my car.

[rkrenicki]

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/02/IMAG0180_zps288f807b-1.jpg

Not bad if I say so myself.

[heli-mech]

Great work man! I just picked up a 010 cluster for my '03 BH.

Is the pig tail jumper harness required? Or could you just re-pin the connectors to make it plug and play?

[rkrenicki]

You could re-pin the existing plugs if everything will reach. I have not cut back the original car harness enough to know how well that would work, but in theory it should.

Did your 010 cluster come with any pigtails on it? If so, I am interested in the wire colors on it as I have not seen an 010 cluster in person yet. In theory it should be close to what the 030 is, but there may be some differences.

Is your BH an H4 or an H6?

[heli-mech]

Unfortunately it did not cone with pig tails or plugs. Its going into a '03 Legacy L H4. Not sure on the back ground on the cluster either. I picked it up off a local member "MySTI", i might start swapping this weekend if i have the time.

[rkrenicki]

The good news is, the 010 cluster uses the same connectors as the US car so you will not need to buy an 18pin connector for the i12/C connector.

The bad news is.. I have no confirmed information for the 010 cluster as to what pin is what, and without wire colors or some other documentation.. it really would be a crapshoot as to what pin does what.

From what I have found on the internets, and from what I have learned from the clusters I have gotten my hands on.. It should be pretty close to what the 020 and 030 clusters use, but I really do not have solid information to give you on it.

[heli-mech]

The good news is, the 010 cluster uses the same connectors as the US car so you will not need to buy an 18pin connector for the i12/C connector.

That's good to know. I have done a few EJ/EG engine swap merge harness's before, so hopefully the cluster is the along the same lines. I will share any of my findings on the 010 cluster.

[heli-mech]

Found the de-pin info. Started mine today, almost finished just need to add some length to a few wires and test it out.

[rkrenicki]

Since I have been finding myself helping a few other people with their BFM installs, I decided to finish my information gathering by acquiring other versions of the BFM and mapping them out.

I will be keeping an eye out to purchase relatively inexpensive BFMs over the next few weeks and I will be reselling them as I get what I need from them. So far I have agreed to buy an 040, 070, and 270 cluster and I will have the information on those as soon as I can.

[Barbbachello]

How exactly do you test the clusters? Ill need to test my BD one to figure this out

[rkrenicki]

After doing quite a bit of research today, I have made a few determinations for BFMs as a whole. There are basically five primary types. This excludes the STI BFMs, as I have not found good information on them yet.

*Removed for update in first post*

There was no MT BFM for A or B-type

A, B and C types share the same wiring with the exception of AT/MT differences.

All D types seem to share the same wiring again with the exception of the AT/MT differences.

This all seems to jive with the fact that all of the US cars have the same wiring as there was no major refresh here like D-type was.

EDIT: I altered this slightly to include A-type.

[rkrenicki]

I am not sure why I did not look before.. but the above information about the D-type clusters means that the PCB adapter that I made will work with any D-type cluster, not just the H6 090 one.

That also means that the Cluster PDF I have for the 090 applies to all other D-type clusters as well. That document is here: D-type BFM cluster pinout (https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B0RxTW8gq7vHdDJLOGx0aWZhX1k/edit?usp=sharing)

[rkrenicki]

I have cleaned up some of the information in this thread and consolidated information into the first post. I also will have some exciting new information fairly soon which I cannot wait to share with everyone, but I do have to wait until a package gets here from Japan in a few weeks.

[rkrenicki]

I ordered a few more BFMs from Japan and they showed up this morning. One is for Grimmrican's car, one is a spare D-type 4 cylinder for my next car project (I figured I should have an H4 on hand to go with my spare H6 cluster in case I end up with an H4 BH), and one is special...

Behold! The third BFM that I received today.. looks pretty normal to me...
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/05/IMG_20130516_112734_780_zpsa2a5afb8-1.jpg

What is that wiring? hmmmm....
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/05/IMG_20130516_112756_660_zpsda779cf9-1.jpg

Hmm.. it is an 020.. C-type MT BFM...
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/05/IMG_20130516_112933_322_zps1e6218dc-1.jpg

Lets take the front plastic off...
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/05/IMG_20130516_112858_915_zps45fb2009-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/05/IMG_20130516_112906_709_zpsb13e1f02-1.jpg

Luckily, the seller made sure to include quite a bit of the cars harness, so I know where all of the wires tie into..
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/05/IMG_20130516_112957_851_zps8ec9dc00-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/05/IMG_20130516_113335_678_zps500bd33d-1.jpg

Right into the disassembly.. The Digital Speedometer is quite literally double-sided taped right on top of the original cluster face.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/05/IMG_20130516_113935_112_zpsb0e195b0-1.jpg

And the module itself. It is quite simple, but it will take me a little time to figure out.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/05/IMG_20130516_114016_329_zps8135590f-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/05/IMG_20130516_114025_210_zpsc7764e97-1.jpg

[Dead91silvia]

Hmm... I wonder if that converter from the UK with change it to MPH?

Thats pretty cool BTW!

[rkrenicki]

I do not see why it wouldnt. It intercepts the VSS signal and displays a number based on the input pulses. Since the SVA adapter just slows down the pulse rate, it should just display the lower number.

The module has 7 wires coming off of it. They tap in as follows:



Red A9 Battery constant
Orange A8 Ignition
Green A11 VSS/Speedometer
Purple N/C
Brown B6 ECU/Tachometer
Yellow A7 Illumination Dim
Black Not spliced in, but is Ground


I realized that I did not actually test the cluster before I pulled it apart.. so I put it back together and rigged it to a power supply I had here at the office. It Lives!
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/09/IMG_20130516_123444_404_zps35890ed1-1.jpg

[Yamazaki]

Ahhhh! I am sooo jealous of you right now.
I reaaallly want that!

[rkrenicki]

As I was saying to amgarrety earlier.. Pictures really do not do this cluster justice. It is much more impressive in real life. My cameraphone really shows the hot-spots where the lights are, but in real life it is much smoother.

I am not going to be keeping this cluster. I will be reselling it when I am done poking and prodding it.

[amgarrety]

Ahhhh! I am sooo jealous of you right now.
I reaaallly want that!

You realize this might be a fight to the death for that cluster, right?

[Grimmrican]

Ahhhh! I am sooo jealous of you right now.
I reaaallly want that!

You realize this might be a fight to the death for that cluster, right?relax ladies I got this lol

[Dead91silvia]

Ahhhh! I am sooo jealous of you right now.
I reaaallly want that!

You realize this might be a fight to the death for that cluster, right?

:happy1:

This oughtta be good!

[rkrenicki]

So, reprogramming the 090 cluster is a pain. Yamazaki, you are very lucky that the one you have is close enough!

Here are the two versions of the EEPROMs, the one on the left is from the 090, and the one on the right is from a 2002 GT.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/12/IMAG0131-1.jpg


So, on a more on-topic note.. the H4 D-type cluster that I picked up is an 85015AE050. It has the same EEPROM as the 090 pictured on the left. The other two clusters are an 85015AE010 and 85015AE020 which both have the DIP-8 type on the right.. just the same as the 85015AE030 that I used to have in my car..

This is too small of a sample size to make a firm conclusion, but I am willing to bet that all D-type clusters have the smaller SOIC-8 style L56R EEPROM... meaning reprogramming them is more difficult than the A~C types.

[rkrenicki]

Last night, I re-pinned Grimmrican's car for his 85015AE010 A/B Type AT cluster. I pulled every wire out of all three connectors and unbundled all of the cluster wiring, even behind the middle support. I found that I did not have to extend any wires doing this, although one wire on the JDM A/i10 harness was shorter than the rest, I still had enough room to work with.

We found out that his "D" light was burned out so I swapped it around with the "P" for now until I can source some bulbs for those. I also discovered that in the 2000 model year, there are some wiring differences. First off, the High Beam Ground wire is not Red, but Blue/Orange... and the 2000 does not have ambient air temp line or a Cruise Set light at all.

I also found that a mini-maglight is probably not the best light to use when you need to determine color.. I had swapped the yellow-blue and yellow-green wires around, and the green-black and light green-black wires as well. Otherwise, everything works well, and I am pretty happy with how it turned out.

I still need to replace the "P" bulb, reprogram the odometer, and wire the backlight dimmer. I will also clean up the wire bundling a bit more at the same time.

Completed re-pin:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/06/IMG_20130628_220605_zpsb68b169d-1.jpg

Cluster installed:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/06/IMG_20130628_222232_zps3ee07d94-1.jpg

[keremdemir]

Hi My Friends
I decided to make this application. but in my car, 2000 model Legacy GL. I need the diagram.
may be different from my car cluster. I' am from turkey. vehicle production in Australia?

[rkrenicki]

http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o739/rkrenickisli/FS%20Items/IMG_20130713_112248_zps4914bf8b.jpg

http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o739/rkrenickisli/FS%20Items/IMG_20130713_112204_zps109d383c.jpg

[amgarrety]

You and your ability to buy things I want but can't afford are making me jealous at the moment.

[Grimmrican]

Derp

That's awesome lol it's about time it's arrived

[rkrenicki]

Hi My Friends
I decided to make this application. but in my car, 2000 model Legacy GL. I need the diagram.
may be different from my car cluster. I' am from turkey. vehicle production in Australia?

The JDM side is the same.. I do have some European market diagrams.. When I return from vacation, I can take a look at them to find the EDM side of the conversion.

[keremdemir]

my current speedo 8515ae010
new speedo 8515ae210 I think the A / B type

[rkrenicki]

Sorry I havent gotten back to you. I do not have a 2000 General Market (EDM/AUDM) service manual.. The closest one I have is the 2002, which has mostly D-type stuff in it.

Those part numbers seem to be missing a digit, but if they are 85015AE010 and 85015AE210, then the A~C type diagram and the D type diagram on the first post would be the correct ones for you.

Basically, you would only need to move a few wires to make it work.

[keremdemir]

Everything's okay.
but ring lights are not lit????? :smt021
When you have finished. sharing wiring scheme.
thank you for everything

[keremdemir]

hi friends
All issues have been fixed, except for one
this video http://youtu.be/GXqZd8rxXD4

[rkrenicki]

What issue? Are you talking about the blinking ring? That is because you are out of petrol.

[Matty2Hotty]

I did think swap a while back

http://www.sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=19918

[keremdemir]

What issue? Are you talking about the blinking ring? That is because you are out of petrol.
yesss out of petrol failure blinking ring
supeeer, I was very happy. :smt031 :smt026
I completed this work.
Many thanks to you,

[Grimmrican]

Lol that happened to me this morning because I too was low on gas (petrol) but I'm good now. Welcome to the BFM club


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free (http://tapatalk.com/m/)

[rkrenicki]

I did think swap a while back

http://www.sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=19918

You did indeed.. you were one of the many sources of my original information. ?

One thing I am not sure about is that you showed a picture of a A~C type meter, but your wiring chart (from AZAWD) is for D. Because of this discrepancy, I decided to find out the differences and chart out everything and this thread was born.

[keremdemir]

i'm glad to be here :smt023
I hope that helps others
my cluster wiring scheme url
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Ixngnmbmng

[rkrenicki]

I dug out the circuit board design for my adapter and I was able to reduce the board size by just about 20%. I was able to shrink it enough to make it fit within the size constraints of a cheaper fabrication house, and I can now get the board made for about $4 each in batches of 10. That will reduce the cost of the adapter by quite a bit. This is just the D-type board for now, but I am going to start modifying the design for A-C type clusters as well.

I also found a better crimper for the wiring portion of the adapter, which should speed up the fabrication process a bit. Right now it takes me a few hours to build one adapter, so making a lot is not really feasible considering the relatively high price for the materials and the low demand for the adapter.

[Rammster]

http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o739/rkrenickisli/IMG_20130516_113935_112_zpsb0e195b0.jpg



do you have the Tommy Kaira wire diagram?

i have this gauge to install in my BE
http://imageshack.us/a/img12/4245/painel1p.jpg

[rkrenicki]

Do you just need the TK portion of it, or do you need the rest as well? The pinouts in the first post are for the Black Faced Meters only.. the standard meters have a different wiring scheme.

Either way, On the bottom of the cluster there is a sticker, can you give me the series of numbers that begin with 850?

[rkrenicki]

I now have a final PCB design for both A~C types and D type. I made sure to include the Sportshift lines on this turn around, since there are a few models in the US that do have that option. This should be a truely plug-and-play experience except for the dimmer which still needs to be wired in.

I will be sending off the designs for fabrication later today.

A~C type Adapter Renders
Top:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/09/ACTop_zps2c111273png-1.jpg

Bottom:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/09/ACBottom_zps5ba8112apng-1.jpg


D type Adapter Renders
Top:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/09/DTop_zps4513f16cpng-1.jpg

Bottom:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/09/DBottom_zps419959e8png-1.jpg

[Younginz]

Do you have a schematic for that pcb

very nice design i liking the purple pcb

[rkrenicki]

I likely will not have them fabricated at the same shop that does the purple, as their costs are relatively high. I used their site to render them, and they use the same purple. The fab house I will use for the cheaper boards use green by default.

As for the schematic, it really is just the charts on the first page. I am using DA-15 and DB-25 connectors just for the transition from the board to wire, and because they are cheap.

[keremdemir]

nice design pcb, good work, good job

[alexporsche]

Hello from the UK here we have at least 8 members here who would love to install the Black Faced Clocks into our BH5's GTB's but as yet not been able to do this. If you have or are making up any harnesses for the BH5 GTB version to install the Black Faced Clocks then we would happily part with cash! If you have any questions or need to know model numbers of the clocks themselves then feel free to drop me a note here alex@reid-electrics.co.uk

[rkrenicki]

alex, I answered you over on UKLegacy :)

I had some more bits show up today.. not the PCBs yet, but those will take a while. While these are not directly related to the rest of the thread, they are still JDM Black Faced Meters..

4th gen BFMs
http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o739/rkrenickisli/Other%20Purchases%20from%20Japan/IMG_20130924_094436_zpsedb44d47.jpg

85041AG011 (unfortunately with broken plastic, but has the Multifunction Information Display)
http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o739/rkrenickisli/Other%20Purchases%20from%20Japan/IMG_20130924_094440_zps67d96a0c.jpg
http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o739/rkrenickisli/Other%20Purchases%20from%20Japan/IMG_20130924_103700_zps318f3f78.jpg

85015AG570 (standard BFM without the MID)
http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o739/rkrenickisli/Other%20Purchases%20from%20Japan/IMG_20130924_094444_zps849c54c6.jpg
http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o739/rkrenickisli/Other%20Purchases%20from%20Japan/IMG_20130924_103310_zpsc6ec3276.jpg

I swapped the front plastic around, so the intact plastic is on the MID BFM. These clusters depend on CAN signaling for most of their information, so they both complain about the lack of CAN. The 85015AG570 has the "Er 1U", and the 85041AG011 has a multi-line error in Japanese on the LCD screen before switching back to the Odometer display.

[Grimmrican]

I like the second one. Idky but to me it looks better


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free (http://tapatalk.com/m/)

[amgarrety]

I like the second one. Idky but to me it looks better


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free (http://tapatalk.com/m/)

Agreed. I also like the first one, but it looks just like the US '08-'09 cluster, the only major difference being the LCD screen. The US versions even have the red halos to match.

[rkrenicki]

I had a nice box show up today with my new PCB design in them.

I ordered 10 of each type, A-C and D types. The price difference between 5 (minimum order) and 10 was very small, so I figured I would just get plenty for the future.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_20131017_141908_zps1348b3f8-1.jpg

This is the A~C type board, top and bottom:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_20131017_142024_zps23462118-1.jpg

And this is the revised D type board, electrically identical to the one I have in the car except I added the Sportshift lines for those cars:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_20131017_142059_zps63afcf65-1.jpg

Apparently the workers at the Shenzen factory do not know how to count. I ordered 10 of each, I received 11 of one design and 12 of the other. I am not going to complain as it was an error in my favor, but it was still unusual.

[yaya]

Good info in this thread. I just have a few questions as I'm trying to sort out wiring a JDM D type 85015AE040 cluster into my 01 MT L wagon (cluster 85013AE60A).

1. I'm not super concerned about being able to dim the JDM cluster, but what do I do with the purple wire (USDM A6)? And what do I do with B3 & C2-C4 on the JDM cluster?
2. The JDM cluster says A10 is the car frame display, do I have a corresponding wire on my USDM wiring?
3. There are a few wires on my USDM wiring that don't appear to be used on the JDM cluster (A11 - ?, A9 - outside temp, A16 - ?). What are you doing with these wires? Just repin them to an unused spot on the JDM plug?
4. C14 on the JDM cluster shows odometer reset. What do I wire there? I assume this will let me reset my trip odometer...?

Thanks.

[rkrenicki]

1. I'm not super concerned about being able to dim the JDM cluster, but what do I do with the purple wire (USDM A6)? And what do I do with B3 & C2-C4 on the JDM cluster?

USDM A6 connects to JDM B3 for D-type. Purple to purple.



2. The JDM cluster says A10 is the car frame display, do I have a corresponding wire on my USDM wiring?

A10 is an n/c wire, but the cluster does actually light up the car diagram when it is grounded. It does not need to be connected.



3. There are a few wires on my USDM wiring that don't appear to be used on the JDM cluster (A11 - ?, A9 - outside temp, A16 - ?). What are you doing with these wires? Just repin them to an unused spot on the JDM plug?

There is no A16, "n/c" means "not connected". Any unused wires including A9 will need to be taped off and tucked up in the dash somewhere. See the next heading for A11. Do not put them into other random spots, as that can cause unexpected behavior or even a short.



4. C14 on the JDM cluster shows odometer reset. What do I wire there? I assume this will let me reset my trip odometer...?

The Odometer reset is for dealer reprogramming the odometer. I believe it either goes back to the ECU or to the OP connector, I have not checked. It is A11 on the USDM harness (White-Blue) I have updated my chart to reflect that, but I have not made a new image for this thread yet.




Thanks.
You're welcome.


This reminds me that I really need to generate new images for the first post with the clarified pinouts. Basically, if you have the JDM pigtails, you want to match color to color with the exception of the front doors which will be backwards.

[yaya]

Thanks for the reply! Makes sense (wasn't sure exactly what n/c meant).

Hopefully I'll finish wiring it up tomorrow.

[rkrenicki]

I have officially assembled the first A~C type adapter.. or at least the PCB portion of it. At each step, I find that I am out of something.. now I need to get more heat shrink tubing before I can complete the wire half of this adapter.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/11/IMG_20131104_174402_zps2b1835ea-1.jpg

[rkrenicki]

I normalized the wording of my charts and uploaded new images of them.

I also added the Non-BFM JDM charts for those who are switching from them, or for whatever reason want to install them into their car.

[amgarrety]

Wow, talk about comprehensive. Very nice! I'm glad someone has finally made this information easy to follow and understand.

[alexporsche]

Anyone help someone here in the UK?

I've done the BFM conversion and the only problem i'm having is i can't light up the halo's (they worked when checked from behind with a battery) and not getting the door ajar function working, i've checked the wiring many times and all checks out, i think it's something to do with the dimming function as the light behind the clock and the trip computer doesn't light up either?

Any ideas?????

[rkrenicki]

As for the Halos, if the LCDs are not lighting up either, than one of the power lines is not connected. There are 3 Ignition (Green-white) lines, and 2 Battery Constant (Blue-Red) on the C type meter that you have. Your A type car only had 2 Ignition wires and 1 Battery Constant, so you will need to jumper one of each to the additional line.

If that does not fix the door ajar as well, the door ajar display is an LCD with a light. It could be burned out in which case the indications are working but they are not being back-lit.

[alexporsche]

Sounds fine i guess they are labelled on the BFM clock pinout chart.

I did check last night and i believe where the middle LCD that shows the door ajar should have two lamps one above the other.

Mine had none so that could explain why!

I'll check the ignition and battery constant later this evening and let you know how i get on, also i cannot seem to adjust the clock but not sure if this could be one of the battery constant connections.

So i guess wherever the BFM pinout chart shows either ignition +ve or battery constant there should be one there?

Thanks again for all your help rekenki it has been much appreciated and i now have many people here in the UK asking me to make looms up!!!!!!!!!!!

[rkrenicki]

The bottom bulb is for the Sportshift display, so you only need to install one in the top location for your car.

As for the power lines, yes.. anywhere it says "Battery constant" or "Ignition" should have a wire connected to it. Does the clock not adjust, or does it forget the setting when you turn off the car? If so, then the missing Battery Constant line is the one that keeps the clock going when the car is off.

[alexporsche]

This is driving me mad!!!

I now have everything working and even had the halos working about an hour ago but in my quest to get the adjustment for the clock working i'm now back to everything but the halo's and the clock adjust and the door ajar working.

The door ajar was working previously but only when the ignition was on which means i'm still missing a battery constant somewhere even though i've triple checked it...

Also on my chart i have x2 battery constants on the C plug but only one on the A plug for the BFM on the non BFM i have x2 battery constants one on the A plug and one on the C plug....

[alexporsche]

Do you know what plug would feed the halo's or the clock ajust that might help me.....

[alexporsche]

Shouldnt there be a battery constant on my original A plug?????

[alexporsche]

Finally should my illumination GND C4 on the BFM plug be connected to anything (i have linked C2 and C3)

Apologies for all the questions just want to get it right!!!

[rkrenicki]

I do not know which power line feeds the halos and clock, but it is a moot point since they all need power anyways.

Make sure that when the car is off, you have power on A9 and C1. With the car On, make sure you also have power on A8, B5, and C13. Also make sure that you have functioning grounds on both A18 and B7. Those 7 wires are all critical to ensure that all functions will work properly. If you are missing any one of these or have a poor connection on one, you will have some sort of issue.

As for the illumination.. if you are hot-wiring it to full bright, then just leave C4 unconnected.

[elislider]

Sooo... I've had this BFM (85014AE60A) sitting on my shelf for over a year. It sadly did not come with any wiring/plugs.
I have an 03 Legacy GT wagon (5mt)
In the meantime I bought another 03 legacy (5mt) gauge cluster with some wiring/plugs on ebay for maybe $30.

Just today I busted everything out.
- completely tore apart the extra 03 Legacy (5mt) cluster and cut off the plugs from the board
--- sidenote: if anyone wants part from this cluster, you can have it all for cost of shipping. gauge faces, needles, front and rear covers (lens cracked)
- bought some more wiring and plugs on ebay
- bought the 18-pin plug for the jdm cluster and extra sockets just for fun (from the supplier website, thank you for that!)
- had my wiring tools, and laptop with excel and loud music
- drafted up a detailed wiring spreadsheet for my car (http://share.subiefiles.com/share/personal/legacy%20bfm%20cluster/legacy%20bfm%20wiring.pdf).
- repinned the extra legacy cluster plugs for practice

My plan is to just repin the plugs in the car though

couple questions:
- i need a few more of the "long socket" bulb sockets, since my jdm cluster is missing them for cruise (and maybe i'll use the "power" light later). anyone have a few extra?
- Where do I connect USDM A12 (illumination?) on the JDM harness, and what will be the illumination experience using just the purple wire (A6->B3 illumination wire) and not the JDM C2/C3/C4 pins?
- how or what do I tap to get a "cruise set" light? the JDM cluster has the spot/wire for it but my car did not have it originally as far as I know.
- easiest way to add the extra 1 wire for switched 12v and 1 wire for constant 12v?

this thread rocks btw.

[alexporsche]

Ok all done and now all working apart from the clock adjust which if everything else is working fine then this is a problem with the adjust mechanism or something????

The only thing i noticed was that the non BFM clock (my origional) does not have a battery constant coming from C1 as there is no pin for that it does however come from C7 which has solved my problem.!

Thanks again from the UK the help has in fact been invalulable!

[rkrenicki]

Sooo... I've had this BFM (85014AE60A) sitting on my shelf for over a year. It sadly did not come with any wiring/plugs.
That part number is the USDM cluster.



- bought the 18-pin plug for the jdm cluster and extra sockets just for fun (from the supplier website, thank you for that!)

Given that you needed an 18pin connector, sounds like you have a D-type cluster.


couple questions:
- i need a few more of the "long socket" bulb sockets, since my jdm cluster is missing them for cruise (and maybe i'll use the "power" light later). anyone have a few extra?

Best bet is to steal it from an unused light, such as "Steering" or "* Hold". I have not physically seen a D-type Manual Cluster, so I do not know what is populated. If worst comes to worst, I do have a few around somewhere, just let me know.


- Where do I connect USDM A12 (illumination?) on the JDM harness, and what will be the illumination experience using just the purple wire (A6->B3 illumination wire) and not the JDM C2/C3/C4 pins?

Illumination to Illumination. That line tells the cluster to go into "dim mode" when the headlights come on, but does not actually control the specific brightness level. The C2-C4 go to the turn signal stalk, but since you have a D-type cluster, and a 2003-2004 car, you will need to do the same as me and cut the wires under the column to set the car lights to full bright. If you do not connect C2-C4, then the cluster will be in about half bright mode which is quite dim when the headlights are on too.



- how or what do I tap to get a "cruise set" light? the JDM cluster has the spot/wire for it but my car did not have it originally as far as I know.

Cruise is C6 on your car. All 2001-2004 cars had it, only the 2000 did not.



- easiest way to add the extra 1 wire for switched 12v and 1 wire for constant 12v?

Probably using a red scotchlock tap.


this thread rocks btw.I am glad that I could help so many people with this. I know how frustrating it was trying to figure it out from scraps of information on the internets.

[rkrenicki]

Ok all done and now all working apart from the clock adjust which if everything else is working fine then this is a problem with the adjust mechanism or something????The clock set stalk is rotated one direction or the other. Does the clock not light up, or you just cannot set it? There are two contacts, one on each side for the adjustment of the clock.


The only thing i noticed was that the non BFM clock (my origional) does not have a battery constant coming from C1 as there is no pin for that it does however come from C7 which has solved my problem.!
That could be. First year (A-type) cars sometimes vary slightly from the diagrams. I ran into a similar problem with grimriccan's 2000 car (which in the United States is an A-type)


Thanks again from the UK the help has in fact been invalulable!
Not a problem, I am glad that you have it mostly working!

[alexporsche]

There is one solution to adjusting the clock.......

I'll wait until 1pm then disconnect the battery then reconnect it ;o)

[rkrenicki]

Or 1am!

Does the clock adjust control spin freely? Or does it only twist a little bit in each direction? If it is spinning freely, then the plastic tab that pushes on the contacts is broken off..

[elislider]

That part number is the USDM cluster.
Given that you needed an 18pin connector, sounds like you have a D-type cluster.
Whoops, I read it off the wrong piece on my table. It was 3am... I was tired.
I have the 85015AE040 cluster


Best bet is to steal it from an unused light, such as "Steering" or "* Hold". I have not physically seen a D-type Manual Cluster, so I do not know what is populated. If worst comes to worst, I do have a few around somewhere, just let me know.

Mine came with only the required/common bulb sockets, all others were blank. plus, a couple were burnt out so I'm sourcing them online.



Illumination to Illumination. That line tells the cluster to go into "dim mode" when the headlights come on, but does not actually control the specific brightness level. The C2-C4 go to the turn signal stalk, but since you have a D-type cluster, and a 2003-2004 car, you will need to do the same as me and cut the wires under the column to set the car lights to full bright. If you do not connect C2-C4, then the cluster will be in about half bright mode which is quite dim when the headlights are on too.
Well, there is the purple illumination wire (A6 usdm) which will go to the same purple wire on the JDM cluster (pin B3).
But then there's also the USDM A12 Black-White wire labeled "illumination", and the only other illumination pins on the JDM cluster are C2 (grey, illum 5v), C3 (blue, illum 'input') and C4 (blue-green, illum gnd), none of which seem to match....
Unless I am misunderstanding.



Cruise is C6 on your car. All 2001-2004 cars had it, only the 2000 did not.

seriously? huh. should it be working on my stock cluster already? it definitely doesnt. and it doesnt show up on the USDM 03 Legacy FSM


I am glad that I could help so many people with this. I know how frustrating it was trying to figure it out from scraps of information on the internets.
I definitely appreciate the help. I certainly wouldn't be able to do it without at least the JDM pinouts
I wish i knew japanese...

[rkrenicki]

Well, there is the purple illumination wire (A6 usdm) which will go to the same purple wire on the JDM cluster (pin B3).
But then there's also the USDM A12 Black-White wire labeled "illumination", and the only other illumination pins on the JDM cluster are C2 (grey, illum 5v), C3 (blue, illum 'input') and C4 (blue-green, illum gnd), none of which seem to match....
Unless I am misunderstanding.
The A12 line is a variable voltage for the backlight on the non-BFM cluster. It does not get used on the JDM cluster. The JDM CCFL brightness is controlled by the rheostat in the turn signal stalk, but you need to run wires from C2-C4 down to it.




Cruise is C6 on your car. All 2001-2004 cars had it, only the 2000 did not.

seriously? huh. should it be working on my stock cluster already? it definitely doesnt. and it doesnt show up on the USDM 03 Legacy FSM
You know, you are right.. I just checked the 2001, 2002, and 2003 books and it does not show it. I know my 2004 has it, and I thought that it worked on Yamazaki's car which is a 2002. amgarrery is using a C type cluster, so it does not have a cruise set light in it. I know that the 2000 did not have it from grimms car. I would see if the wire is present anyways.

[elislider]

to be fair thought, the 2 wires for switched 12v arent on the usdm service manual wiring pinout either... which is odd.

[alexporsche]

The clock adjust doesn't spin freely also i'm having a small issue with the fuel gauge.

It went down to 0 then the ring started to blink although i knew i had 1/2 tank then it came up again, think i have a dodgy ground somewhere.....

[alexporsche]

Ok so i'm having a few issues with the fuel gauge,i've checked continuity between the old pin outs and the new and there is all good but the fuel gauge slowly fluctuates between ok sometimes and then drops to empty then back up an ideas as its definately not the GND????

[yaya]

Thanks to this thread I got my BFM installed today. I just got an 18 pin connector and re-pinned everything.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/11/IMG_20131129_153349_zps0d8669c9-1.jpg

[rkrenicki]

Ok so i'm having a few issues with the fuel gauge,i've checked continuity between the old pin outs and the new and there is all good but the fuel gauge slowly fluctuates between ok sometimes and then drops to empty then back up an ideas as its definately not the GND????

Sounds like a poor connection on that wire or it is shorting to ground?

[alexporsche]

Don't think it's shorting out although i will check again tomorrow....

[elislider]

got my BFM cluster installed last night. had to get kinda creative/desperate with the wiring because it was 1am and I was pretty sick of sitting in my 30-degree garage.

the 2 wires that didn't reach from the left side to the right side were the illumination (purple) and airbag light (lightgreen), and since the illumination is already dim enough as I found out, and i dont care about the airbag light, i just disconnected both of those pins. I will probably extend them later once i get the proper illumination wires run from the stalk. i used the extra green plugs and wiring i had to make splitter/extender of sorts, so i didnt have to modify my stock harness at all and in the future if i want to put the stock cluster back in, i just have to repin back to stock.

for kph->mph i'm just going to buy an IA Performance harness. Yes, they are $130. No, I don't care :)

one question that didnt get answered, if anyone knows: the stock USDM illumination variable voltage wire (black something) goes from nearly 0volts to nearly 10volts depending on where you have the stalk dial. does this wire get used on the BFM cluster at all? i didnt want to risk connecting it to one of the 3 unused BFM illumination pins and possibly overvolt something.

[rkrenicki]

The kph/mph adapter is much cheaper from SVAspeedos. I buy them for just about $50 shipped. Offer them about 22 pounds and they generally accept it.
Here is a link to one, any of the black ones will work, the light blue version is for 2nd gen.: http://www.ebay.com/itm/330901573748

It is the same as this: http://www.iaperformance.com/product_in ... ts_id=2208 (http://www.iaperformance.com/product_info.php?products_id=2208)

The variable voltage from USDM is too high, you will need to splice into the three wires in the steering column.

[elislider]

The kph/mph adapter is much cheaper from SVAspeedos. I buy them for just about $50 shipped. Offer them about 22 pounds and they generally accept it.
Here is a link to one, any of the black ones will work, the light blue version is for 2nd gen.: http://www.ebay.com/itm/330901573748
It is the same as this: http://www.iaperformance.com/product_in ... ts_id=2208 (http://www.iaperformance.com/product_info.php?products_id=2208)
yeah, but i am tired of doing wiring. I just want to plug and play. Also I just sold a car so I had some extra cash. I already bought the IA Performance one anyways :)


The variable voltage from USDM is too high, you will need to splice into the three wires in the steering column.
ok, good to know. thanks!

[alexporsche]

Just a thought the fuel gauge still sometimes drop to empty then start creeping up again.

My thought it even if the power is off and the clocks are removed the last fuel reading stays the same therefore surely if the ground wire to this fails wouldn't it just stay where it is, wouldn't i need to find the +12v feed to the fuel gauge as this may also control the clock adjust, any ideas where this may be?????

Alex

[rkrenicki]

I have been building an A-C type adapter for amgarrety (5MT, so it has fewer wires than mine), but I did not bring enough JAE IL-AG5 contacts with me today to complete it... I am short by 4 wires, but this is what the new ones look like when (mostly) assembled.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/03/IMG_20140324_114739_zpsbbqyq8nu-1.jpg

[colbh5]

Nice!, you're an electrical genius.

[yaya]

So much great information in this thread!

When I got my BFM it already had red LEDs in the halos... are those 2723 bulbs? I've got two that are on their way out and want to pickup some replacements. If 2727 is right, then 74s are what I think I need from superbrightleds.com. Just looking for confirmation before ordering, thanks.

[riggs]

ive done this conversion all is working, except one thing theres an issue with my doors, you know how if you unlock your car but dont open any doors it automatically locks its self after 30 seconds. well for some reason my cars not recognising the doors being open so its locking its self even if ive opened a door. but the cluster recognises which doors open and the light comes on accordingly. and the interior light when switched to "door" doesnt come on either
just wandering if anyone has came across this

[Barbbachello]

When you order the sockets form Mauser do they come with the contacts? I know they have an item that is the pins but everything i can find says they come with the pins already in and at right angles which isnt ideal for the adaptor i want to build

[rkrenicki]

The PCB sockets do have the pins pre-populated, the wire plugs do not.

I have not found a wire-terminating socket for all 3 sizes, so the only option is the PCB sockets, where you need to solder wires to the pins and cover with heat shrink. That is why I ended up making the PCB adapters earlier in the thread.

[yaya]

So much great information in this thread!

When I got my BFM it already had red LEDs in the halos... are those 2723 bulbs? I've got two that are on their way out and want to pickup some replacements. If 2727 is right, then 74s are what I think I need from superbrightleds.com. Just looking for confirmation before ordering, thanks.

Following this up...

I ordered 6x of these from superbrightleds.com: http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/wedge-bulbs/74-led-bulb-3-smd-led-wide-angle-wedge-base/228/1071/

Worked perfectly.

[Barbbachello]

The PCB sockets do have the pins pre-populated, the wire plugs do not.

I have not found a wire-terminating socket for all 3 sizes, so the only option is the PCB sockets, where you need to solder wires to the pins and cover with heat shrink. That is why I ended up making the PCB adapters earlier in the thread.
I had a feeling that was the case. Ill have to make do. Thanks

[hupshall]

In your stash of files, do you have an EEPROM dump of the L56R for a 85015AE040 cluster?

[rkrenicki]

I have one from an 85015AE050 and 090. I have not had my hands on an 040.

[hupshall]

Well, when looking at the hex, do they have the same data? I wiped my eeprom without having a backup and just feel completely stupid.

[rkrenicki]

The 050 and 090 are different clusters, and I can tell you right from memory that the roms are different, but that largely comes from the fact that the 090 is the H6 cluster. The 040 and the 050 are basically identical clusters, except that the 040 does not have the lights for automatic transmission. The 050 rom would most likely work for you.

I will have to dig around for it, I do not have my EEPROM/Flash writing computer unpacked from my last move. Out of curiosity, why did you erase the eeprom before modifying the rom contents? Also, what are you using to write to these chips?

[hupshall]

I was just using unfamiliar software and hit the wrong button - Stupid move on my part, I should have been more careful but that is how it goes. I'm going to finish making up a wiring harness and just power the cluster up. There may be some initialization routines in the microchip that sets up the external eeprom to a default state if it sees that it's all empty. At least, that is what I'm hoping. If not, I'll just end up having to find another cluster.

I am using a SP200SE with a SOIC 8pin test clip (I did not desolder the L56R)

[rkrenicki]

No, it does not re-set the eeprom if it is empty. I can send you a copy of the 050 eeprom, but it will take me some time to dig it out.

I like the sound of using a SOIC test clip.. I tried using a Buspirate on some test points once upon a time with no luck, but I never tried a clip. I would have to fabricate a header of some sort, as my GQ-3X does not have an ICP header.

[hupshall]

Made my own adapter based on all the information shared on this thread - Thanks!

I'm leaning towards making a case for this in Sketchup and then 3D printing it out - I'm still thinking about that though.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/11/WP_20141120_005-1.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/hupshall/media/Subaru%20Parts/WP_20141120_005.jpg.html)

[zaho_baho]

Hi, i already have bfm speedo in my car.I made the instalation easy with guiding your posts.Everything works and i am prety happy.But the speedo is from h6 engine(my engine has 4 cylinders) and shows 500 rmp at idle instead 750 rpm.The second problem is that speedo calculates mileage in miles instead kilometers.I see that you also have problem with max speed and tacho.After deep search with google i found the answer.You CAN change mileage,rpm and tacho if you have programmer for eeprom. In most cases the eeprom is lr56(93c56).This is the link for russian forum:
http://myforester.ru/topic16286.html
Respect for alberto2000

I'll explain the most important things.

Here is the dump file from eeprom:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/12/eeprom_zpsd9793f7djpeg-2.jpg


First row address 000000 - no info

Now about second row
address 000010 - left half is for speedo .If you have speedo with 180 kmh and you want to be in miles.
Right half is for tacho.In my case i want to see real rpm instead 66% ot them.
In address 000010 clumn 11 you see "34",34 mean 4 cylinders and 54 is for H6 engine.

000020- This row is for calculating of mileage.In my case i want the sppedo to calculate the mileage in kilometers.Also trip a and trip b.

000030-50 - the black fenced fields are for meters between 1 and 2 miles for eg.

000060-70 - here is the mileage.You have to use calculator if you want to change it.Algorithm of calculating the mileage is very sample but it is easier to do it with calculator.

000080 because bfm speedo(and dump files) are same like the forester after 01 here is the temperature C or F 99 55 99 55 99 55 FF FF temp in F, 33 55 33 55 33 55 FF FF temp in celsius.

Sorry for the english but im doing my best.If you want additional information or translate something from russian please ask.

[rkrenicki]

EDIT: Apparently the information I had was incorrect! Thanks for the new information!

I do have a number of different clusters. I can compare the EEPROM contents and see if I can find any more information for you.

[rkrenicki]

Made my own adapter based on all the information shared on this thread - Thanks!

I'm leaning towards making a case for this in Sketchup and then 3D printing it out - I'm still thinking about that though.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/11/WP_20141120_005-2.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/hupshall/media/Subaru%20Parts/WP_20141120_005.jpg.html)

That adapter looks quite similar to mine. I just chose to use D-sub connectors instead of the JAE connectors due to cost. Those JAE connectors are not that cheap.

[zaho_baho]

That is strange, there is no H6 BFM that came reading miles from the factory, there was no H6 BE or BH in the UK market. It is possible that someone modified the cluster in some way.

I do have a number of different clusters. I can compare the EEPROM contents and see if I can find any more information for you.

Hi, i have one like this :
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161490558242?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

and it looks like this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qm-il7t6tWw
if someone wants i can post dump file of my bfm cluster.

[rkrenicki]

I looked for one of those for months, and was never able to find one. I was told on the UK forums that there was no H6 bfm over there.

Do you happen to have the part number on the bottom of it? It should begin with 85015AE

[zaho_baho]

The part number on the bottom of the cluster is 85015AE110 .Also member of our local subaru forum has the same cluster with the same part number from outback 3.0 imported from UK.Thes? cars has bfm from factory:
2.0L H4 twin turbo (EJ208/206);
3.0L H6 (EZ30);
2.0L H4 twin turbo (EJ20)
include STi S401 ? Blitzen.

[rkrenicki]

Thank you for the part number, I will add it to my original list.

[rkrenicki]

zaho_baho: I shot you a PM a few days ago. I am not sure if you do not have notifications on for those, so I figured I would ping you here as well.

[keremdemir]

Ok so i'm having a few issues with the fuel gauge,i've checked continuity between the old pin outs and the new and there is all good but the fuel gauge slowly fluctuates between ok sometimes and then drops to empty then back up an ideas as its definately not the GND????
hi dear all friends
have the same problem on my car?
There are fuel gauge fluctuations up and down, I can not find this problem ???

[zaho_baho]

Hi,there.
Give us more detailed information.
Describe when fluctuates up and down is that mean from min to max or from 30% (for eg.) to min or max.Here are schemas for 2000 and 2001+ years:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/12/2000_zps45b1fcdejpeg-2.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/12/2001_zps6578ba14jpeg-2.jpg

Check the connections and the sensors at fuel tank(under rear seats).If the tnahk is full then resistence should be 0 ohm and empty arround 200ohm(not shure).I think you have bad ground.
Good luck, komsu.

[rkrenicki]

If the fuel sender line shorts to ground, it will show as an empty tank. This pin is A3 on non-BFM cars, A17 if you have a BFM.

[rkrenicki]

I bought a function generator to test speedometers and tachometers going forward. This will help me with future EEPROM experiments. I noted down quick and dirty scales, which I will list below.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/01/10888292_10152483894961881_866887328_n_z-1.jpg

DANGER TO MANIFOLD!
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/01/10912855_10152484290066881_35096149_n_zp-1.jpg




Tachometer 14V Square Wave
-----------------------------
H4 33.3Hz = 1000rpm, 100Hz = 3000rpm
H6 50.0Hz = 1000rpm, 150Hz = 3000rpm




Speedometer 14V Square Wave
------------------------------
35Hz = 50km/h = 31MPH
55Hz = 78km/h = 50MPH
70Hz = 100km/h = 63MPH
110Hz = 157km/h = 100MPH
126Hz = 180km/h = 114MPH
154Hz = 220km/h = 140MPH

[rkrenicki]

This is for my future reference, as the website that I originally pulled this from keeps going down.


The mileage is encoded in two hexadecimal octets. The two octets have an inverted checksum.
These four octets are duplicated four times per line, for a total of eight copies.

Each digit is a multiplier.
The first digit is a 65,536 multiplier.
The second digit is a 4,096 multiplier.
The third digit is a 256 multiplier.
I haven’t quite figured out the fourth digit, it appears to loop based on an extra multiplier.

So far I can’t figure out how to get even numbers on the odometer. If others would like to post up their mileage, let’s see if we can figure out exactly how to encode the values.

I haven't figured out the details, but the following table appears to work well enough:


0 = 15
1 = 95
2 = 223
3 = 143
4 = 159
5 = 207
6 = 79
7 = 31
8 = 191
9 = 239
A = 111
B = 63
C = 47
D = 127
E = 255
F = 175


For ease, the checksums can be found using this table:


0 - F
1 - E
2 - D
3 - C
4 - B
5 - A
6 - 9
7 - 8
8 - 7
9 - 6
A - 5
B - 4
C - 3
D - 2
E - 1
F - 0

[rkrenicki]

After some intensive research and some questions over on the UKlegacy forums, I have determined that the ONLY BFM that counts in Miles and has an MPH scale is the one that came in the UK market 2003 Legacy Outback H6. No other vehicle in that market had a BFM on it.

That makes these clusters (85015AE110, and 85015AE111) quite desirable here, but the tachometer would only be correct for an H6 car without modification. I will be testing some EEPROM modifications on the spare unit that I have here to see if I can make an accurate H4 MPH BFM.

[keremdemir]

Hi,there.
Give us more detailed information.
Describe when fluctuates up and down is that mean from min to max or from 30% (for eg.) to min or max.Here are schemas for 2000 and 2001+ years:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/12/2000_zps45b1fcdejpeg-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/12/2001_zps6578ba14jpeg-1.jpg

Check the connections and the sensors at fuel tank(under rear seats).If the tnahk is full then resistence should be 0 ohm and empty arround 200ohm(not shure).I think you have bad ground.
Good luck, komsu.
I will provide complete control, Very Thanks Komsu

[rkrenicki]

I was able to get my hands on an original halo bulb kit. There are 8 bulbs in total. The Subaru part number is 85091AE000.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/02/IMG_20150213_091241_zpsgayhrjli-1.jpg

6 of the bulbs are the larger 14V3WL made by Toshiba. These have a blue base with a yellow paint mark.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/02/IMG_20150213_091010_zpsgub6jepr-1.jpg

The other 2 are the smaller Type 80 bulb, also made by Toshiba. These have a black base with a blue paint mark.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/02/IMG_20150213_091042_zps5boccc1b-1.jpg

Toshibas part number for the larger bare bulb is A7824. It is a 6.5mm-T2 W2.2x5.2D wedge rated for 214mA @14V, with 15 lumens output and a 5000 hour life. Reference "61 431"
Toshibas part number for the smaller bare bulb is A7429. It is a 5.0mm-T1.5 W2x4.6D wedge rated for 140mA @14V, with 8 lumens output and a 5000 hour life. Reference "80"

The type 80 bulb is physically the same as a Type 74, except that its operational life is 5 times longer. (5000hrs vs 1000hrs)

I am trying to find a US source for these bulbs, and I will update this once I find them.

[tom_ice]

pinout 85015AE100 cluster?

[rkrenicki]

tom_ice I have never encountered a 85015AE100. What did it come out of? I would like to see a picture of this front of it as well so that I can add its details to my master list of clusters.

Since it is an 85015 series cluster, it "should" be D type.

[tom_ice]

I have 85012AE230 cluster in the car Subaru Legacy III BE / BH Wagon H4 2.5 l SOHC Air suspension ,VDC, 4EAT LHD, I want to mount cluster 85015AE100

[rkrenicki]

Can you also take a picture of the back? I think that is the LHD version of the 85015AE090, but the LHD clusters have different wiring.