Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: rear sub frame

  1. #1
    New User
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Annapolis, MD
    Posts
    5
    Points
    3,138
    Level
    34
    Points: 3,138, Level: 34
    Level completed: 59%, Points required for next Level: 62
    Achievements:
    1000 Experience PointsVeteran

    rear sub frame

    Any body ever done a rear sub frame rebuild/swap on a BH?

    My car had an unfortunate encounter with a hill over the winter an one of the wheels is towed way in, think I bent what ever piece controls that. Anyway, my plan was to rip another sub frame out of a junkyard, rebuild it, and then swap it into the car all at once. Figure this is the best way to limit the time the car is on jack stands.
    I was wondering if anyone has done anything like this and had some advice on things like what brand bushings to get (I plan to replace literally all of them), and, well, any other advice you can think of.

    thanks .... to whoever reads this, I guess.

  2. #2
    "Proby"
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    Posts
    235
    Points
    4,606
    Level
    43
    Points: 4,606, Level: 43
    Level completed: 28%, Points required for next Level: 144
    Achievements:
    1000 Experience PointsO.G.
    I like Group N but most people like Whiteline polyurethane.
    03 350Z - 120K DD
    99 RS - Currently swapping JDM V9 207
    98 RS - 145K JDM 20K V4 WRX
    02 WRX - 150K DD
    95 Legacy Wagon - 200K Winter Tahoe tank

  3. #3
    SLi nOOb shoguy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    York, PA
    Posts
    104
    Points
    4,349
    Level
    41
    Points: 4,349, Level: 41
    Level completed: 99%, Points required for next Level: 1
    Achievements:
    1000 Experience PointsRecommendation Second ClassO.G.
    also would be a good time to check out if you have a limited slip rear differential. I believe the Limited trim had them, base model did not. Just make sure you get one from the same type of transmission to keep the correct gear ratio. This sounds like a good plan you have, would also give you a good opportunity to clean any rust and give the subframe a good coat of paint
    -Rick
    1998 Outback-Lift kit, plasti dip camo tan, 03 WRX calipers, slotted rotors, header, high flow cat, custom 2 1/4 catback, vibrant muffler, fresh rebuilt .020 over EJ25D w/ 251 block, strut tower bar, etc...
    04 35th anniversary H-6 Outback-Dynomax VT Muffler, power mode mod, not much else......yet!
    85 V65 Magna
    86 'Zuki Quadsport-fun machine

  4. #4
    Super Moderator Yamazaki's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    MD, USA
    Posts
    2,613
    Points
    17,786
    Level
    84
    Points: 17,786, Level: 84
    Level completed: 88%, Points required for next Level: 64
    Achievements:
    10000 Experience PointsSocialO.G.Recommendation Second ClassOverdrive
    Awards:
    Community Award
    When I did the de-Outback-ification of my H6, I swapped in a new rear subframe (the old one was disintegrating into rust). I installed brand new bushings all-around (and new lateral links). I just ordered new OEM ones though. Nothing fancy. So now the rear end is relatively brand new and should last another 10~15 years.
    Current lineup(click on links):
    His: '05 Impreza STi / '91 Suzuki Cappuccino / '15 Honda NM4
    Hers: '04 Forester XT / '02 S401

    Past lineup:
    His: '95 Legacy Brighton / '93 Suzuki Cappuccino / '08 Kawasaki Ninja 250R
    Hers: '97 Legacy GT-B Ltd / '05 Mercedes E500 4matic / '02 H6 VDC Sedan

  5. #5
    Administrator rkrenicki's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Southeastern CT
    Posts
    2,840
    Points
    23,967
    Level
    94
    Points: 23,967, Level: 94
    Level completed: 62%, Points required for next Level: 383
    Achievements:
    10000 Experience PointsO.G.SocialOverdrive
    @snail282, has your car been in Maryland all of its life? If so, good luck with the rear subframe bolts as they tend to rust and seize up. I was really lucky taking out the bolts on my car, but one on @Yamazaki's car ended up snapping on us and needed to be drilled out.

    If you do not HAVE to take the subframe itself out, then I recommend leaving it where it is. Most of the bushings are on the control arms and lateral links, all of which are (should be) removable.
    The rear diff carrier bushings are replaceable while still on the car. It is a little tricky to do, but dealers and repair shops do not pull the subframe to do them, so why should we?
    2020 WMA Ascent Limited
    1992 KS4 Sambar SDX S/C - JDM Kei Truck
    2017 BN9 Legacy 2.5i Premium Eyesight - Wife's car
    2013 GP7 Impreza Sport - Daughter's car
    Retired: 2010 SH9 Forester | 2004 BEE Outback | 1996 BG9 Outback | 1993 BJ6 Legacy | 1998 SF9 Forester

  6. #6
    New User
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Annapolis, MD
    Posts
    5
    Points
    3,138
    Level
    34
    Points: 3,138, Level: 34
    Level completed: 59%, Points required for next Level: 62
    Achievements:
    1000 Experience PointsVeteran
    I guess I don't have to take the subframe out but I don't actually have anyplace to work on the car and I never bothered to see what I bent/broke so I'm not sure what I have to replace. I figured if I went this rout I would only have to have the car up on jacks at my buddies house for an afternoon, as opposed to however long it will take me to diagnose and buy parts.
    One of my buddies brought op the idea of solid subframe bushings, either aluminium or delron and I was wondering what you guys thought of that? That got me thinking though, I have a lathe, and delrin isn't that expensive, so what would happen if I just made all the bushings out of delrin? I only use the car as a winter beater/race car so I'm not concerned about ride quality or anything, just wondering if anybody has experience with solid bushings?
    Also thanks for all the replies.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •